My shifting had become more and more sluggish over the years, so I decided to take it apart. After a serious cleaning and re-lubricating, it works super smooth, however, the shifter sits to the right (3rd and 4th) when in neutral. Is that correct? I would expect it to sit in the middle (between 1st and 2nd), but it's been stopping where I left it for so long that I can't remember the actual resting neutral position.
Sounds normal, my 66 does the same...
I have a 70 Mach with a "factory" Hurst shifter and low orginal miles. The shifter sits in neutral between 3rd and 4th. To get first you need a bit of pressure towards the left on the shifter. If you move the shifter forward from neutral, with no pressure either way on the side, it will go in to 3rd.
Quote from: 5566 on February 19, 2024, 04:23:45 PM
I have a 70 Mach with a "factory" Hurst shifter and low orginal miles. The shifter sits in neutral between 3rd and 4th. To get first you need a bit of pressure towards the left on the shifter. If you move the shifter forward from neutral, with no pressure either way on the side, it will go in to 3rd.
After shifting from 2nd and wanting to go to 3rd wouldn't it be preferred to go into 3rd quickly and easily from a speed shifting standpoint?
Yes. I think that's the point. It's easier (to not miss a shift) to pull towards you from 1st to second and then just push forward from 2nd to 3rd. You can feel the spring pushing against the shifter lever when shifting into 1st from neutral, even more when engaging reverse. I always thought the point to the Hurst (or any performance shifter) was to facilitate the 2/3 upshift as that is the easiest to "miss". When downshifting from 4th to 3rd, it can also help to prevent engaging 1st (though you certainly still can.... lol)
On a real HURST Shifter, the alignment of the shifter rods has much to do with the shifter at rest position. Trick is to insert a pin/bolt/screwdriver through the shifter arm holes to align, and adjust the shift rods accordingly. Once all set, the shifter should take a perfect neutral.
Not sure if this works with a Ford Shifter.
Don't forget the stop adjustments
I have adjusted my Ford 4spd shifter as mentioned with a drill bit through the holes in neutral. It usually will shift just fine, but every once in a while after reversing out of the garage, the shifter gets stuck in neutral and won't go into any forward gear.
Anyone know what may be happening here?
Kurt.
Quote from: 67350#1242 on February 20, 2024, 09:22:11 PM
I have adjusted my Ford 4spd shifter as mentioned with a drill bit through the holes in neutral. It usually will shift just fine, but every once in a while after reversing out of the garage, the shifter gets stuck in neutral and won't go into any forward gear.
Anyone know what may be happening here?
Kurt.
Try being being more deliberate about the shift out of reverse into neutral i.e. push forward gently until the shifter hits the stop before letting it spring back to center. If this resolves the issue then I'd say a minor adjustment on the reverse shift rod should help you, it did for me. I had a tendency to just push the shifter until it flopped over as soon as it could - resulting in the same condition you describe.
That is common with the Top Loaders, they get grumpy.
Before I go into reverse, I go into 1st before. Sometimes they do need a gentle nudge out of reverse. I bet this happens more when cold or first starting out?
Yes, definitely most prevalent when starting out. I thought maybe not coming completely out of reverse (to detent) since there is some play when making the adjustment - especially with the reverse rod.
I will try some of the suggestions next time, as you can imagine, usually I am in kind of panic mode when backing into street and this happens. I can't tell if the shifter is locking it out or if the transmission isn't allowing movement into first. I can usually free it up if I push clutch in and out and lightly rev.
When adjusting the reverse rod, should I move the trans reverse lever all the way out of reverse, or somewhere before the limit? (hope I am explaining clear enough)
Quite possibly your clutch is not fully dis-engaging? Rough reverse is usually a sign of that
I'm pretty sure clutch is disengaging. Think I will explore adjustment of linkage further. Thanks all for ideas.
Kurt