So asking for a friend whom has very little internet knowledge . So he has a Metuchen NJ built 68 GT500 ready for paint and asking several questions . So first question is what type of black paint ( Mat or semi gloss etc.) is correct for engine compartment and where does overspray or paint line end for the black paint at cowl / underside ? So next question is what color to be used for hood latch / hood hinges or any and all under hood brackets and front grill / header panel brackets ? So should underside area be red oxide primer etc etc. Any help very much appreciated !!
From the question we can guess he is focused on original finishes for a restoration back to the way the car was originally
The black in the engine compartment would have been a semi-gloss. There are a number of products typically used for this.
The transition on the firewall to floor is a result of applying the engine compartment black over what was sprayed by hand from below the car in red oxide. typically, it took place somewhere between the vertical section of the firewall and the horizontal surface of the floor and transmission tunnel. Just depended on how car the painter bent over, reached in and how tall they were. No one specific point and the edge with be more of a fade of the black coat to mist then no overspray
A number of the brackets you mentioned are not painted. Best you or he establish a list of the brackets concern with then focus on each one and its original finish
Floor was painted with a red oxide epoxy primer sealer not a flat primer. So its typically smooth and it can have a slight glossiness. This coat was allied using mounted spray jets that the body passed over. This was applied to about where the firewall is to just short of the rear cross member
The next step was a similar epoxy red oxide color applied from the firewall forward by hand. Over this you would have body color overspray or direct spray from the body being painted then to a lesser amount the black overspray from the rocker panel pinch weld black out process from the outer edge leaving often a shadow from the pinch weld itself.
Sorry not written a 68 Undercarriage Guide as I have for the other years. Really should, with the help of some others, get that done this year. If you provide him with one of those (they are in threads here on this forum) those may help explain the process though there would be some small differences. Hope this helps
http://www.thecoralsnake.com/PAINT.html
The only changes I would point out are here
(http://www.thecoralsnake.com/frontclip.jpg)
This area would have received little or no red oxide primer under the blackout (ignore circled areas). The exception being the lower areas that face downward. As Mr Speegle said they were sprayed upward from the floor jets. Its not uncommon to find bare steel in many areas. The bottom sides of the aprons and under the battery area/outside being examples.
Typically people use a DP90 for blackout and DP74 for red oxide.
The DP74 is too red in my opinion as the NJ red ox was more brown in color
Next question...undercoating...lol
Thanks much everyone for info !! Much appreciate
Yes now he is asking about correct application of sound deadener,seam sealer and undercoat. So also the
best/correct type products to use.
Thanks again
http://www.thecoralsnake.com/Sealers.html
It might be helpful to know the Shelby number and see some photos
I have a bad feeling about your restoration shop.They obviously don't know how to restore a car to assemblyline condition.Sorry to hear that you are the one footing the bill for their education. We have heard these stories before and they typically end with owners expectations not being met. I hope you are not one of those people when it is all done.
Totally agree with Mr Gaines
Who is reassembling the car?
I saw this subject come up and have a similar question on a 69 Shelby that was not very definitive in your example. The sound deadener applied on the rear inner fenders where the tires go, not the trunk area. Is the sound deadener applied before or after the body color is applied? Your comment was it is debatable and could go either way. Do you have a better understanding of that since you put your under body guide together? Do appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge. The car I have now was restored over 20 years ago to concourse trailered and has been judged by the MCA back in the early 2000 and received gold. It has body color sprayed first with black sound deadener sprayed after (the black is not blackout paint)
The above article is intended as a guide.
It is specifically for 1968 New Jersey built cars and not 1969 Shelbys. Those cars were built at a different plant.
Let me see what I can find that may be able to help you
The examples I found in my files this morning show the rear wheel wells sprayed after body color.
Above, I asked the car number, its very possible the answer changes depending on when the car was built. Certainly, the plant and year are also important.
I generally give answers of what is "typical" and not focus on exceptions.
Hope that helps, if you need more, please let me know
Thanks for getting back to me. It falls in line with what I have. This car is a March built Dearborn car. Thanks again
Quote from: Coralsnake on January 29, 2025, 02:30:36 PMThe only changes I would point out are here
(http://www.thecoralsnake.com/frontclip.jpg)
This area would have received little or no red oxide primer under the blackout (ignore circled areas). The exception being the lower areas that face downward. As Mr Speegle said they were sprayed upward from the floor jets. Its not uncommon to find bare steel in many areas. The bottom sides of the aprons and under the battery area/outside being examples.
Typically people use a DP90 for blackout and DP74 for red oxide.
The DP74 is too red in my opinion as the NJ red ox was more brown in color
Next question...undercoating...lol
And it is my understanding that the DP74 is no longer sold in Qrts... gallons only :(