Messages

Thanks, I haven't decided that I want to spring $300 on a new bowl.  My existing has some warping across the gasket surfaces and I feel that I have to tighten it down too much to make it seal.  I'm going to try a new set of gaskets to see if that will cure it.  If not maybe will look for decent used at a better price. (then again, probably most used ones are warped too).
Kurt.

Thanks,  I called Carl - he has them for $300. 

Are primary Lemans bowl assemblies still available for sale anywhere?

Has anyone ever tried making the upper control arm supports using a block of 4" x 4" wood cut to proper length and a notch cut in the end for the frame rail contact point.  I can't weld so this might be a good alternative for me.  Let me know if anyone has done this successfully so I can get the dimensions.  Thanks.

I made a set of them with 2" angle iron.  I found patterns on the internet but don't remember where.  They were easy to make and no welding.  Will post if I find instructions.
Kurt

1/12/24:   Found it.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umLnOLEhwME

Measured drawing:     https://www.autorestomod.com/diagrams.html

Are the horns swapped left to right?  Should point straight down, right?

Fuller makes awesome parts.  Notice the taper on upper bell for 67 2 piece has more of a gradual taper than does the one piece and the 68 (as well as the Branda repos posted).

Love the Torque Thrust wheels!

Drivers side A/C horn has a different bracket than non A/C and mounts in the same hole as the upper condenser bracket as stated above.  Non A/C horn won't work.  Do a search for images of A/C car and you will see.   Openings for both horns face directly downward.  I believe that a non A/C horn mounted in regular hole will interfere with the lines coming through radiator support.

New lower prices

   Three sets of new OEM tie rods without grease zerks for sale - two outer sets and one inner set.   These were made by original manufacturer for Ford and were sold as early replacements by either Moog or TRW.   Casting and other details are identical to assembly line parts.  The only identifier is the stamping on the lower metal disc. One of the outers has a B mark that has been over stamped.
   The stamps can easily be removed with dremel or other means.  The dust boots are the later style without the visible metal ring that was on the earliest version. (metal ring is encapsulated in the rubber).   The boots can be easily replaced with NOS or repros such as Scott Fullers, and will fit perfectly.
   Selling as sets of two,  $175 for inners and $150 for outers plus shipping.   Please PM for details - photos attached.   Thanks, Kurt.
   
   

Some of the repro crossover lines do not fit as tightly to the contours of the calipers as originals did.  Not surprising that they may rub with some applications.

Original bolts are hex head with somewhat pointed ends.  Washer under head and flange nut on the outside toward rocker.

Measure the rims from bead to bead, not from outside edges.  They look like 14's to me.

I have a good used original latch.  $35 plus mailing.
Kurt

Also noted on the VA. mustang latch, the spring is visible.  Not visible on originals I've seen.

Possible power valve leaking?