Messages

You guys were right to recommend sending it to Drew. Just got the carb back on the car and I have zero issues. Drew did a great job, so thank you everyone for recommending him.

My car came from there

Does anyone have any recommendations for a carburetor rebuilder for my Holley 3259-1 in the Texas region?  I've seen some other post on here with recommendations in the Eastern region; however, I'm hoping that there are some in my area that someone can recommend.  Thanks in advance!

Ordered mine this morning!  Can't wait for April's publishing for it to arrive.

If you haven't seen that you can pre-order the registry, I found a notification and link about it on Facebook this morning.

Just a follow up, installed a new turn signal switch, LED tail lights, electronic flasher and everything is working like it should.  Thanks for all the help!

Did you have to add the electronic flasher for these bulbs?

I used the warm white from NPD. The higher end ones, felt they would look more original when lit up. Look great can't tell except a little brighter.

My grounds are good.  I replaced the taillight harness a couple years ago, and I made sure the contact areas areas are bare metal.  Thanks for the input Cobrask8!

Pcunder: I replaced the headlight switch and my flashers when I replaced my turn signal switch, so I hope that has me covered.

tonys_shelby:  I read that comment about the load being too much for these new switches, and that they used the 1157s.  Searching on line, I can't tell if I would need an additional relay for the LED bulbs to work correctly, or if I can just switch them out with the conventional 1157? I went ahead an ordered a new turn signal switch, but I haven't decided about the bulbs yet.  For the LED bulbs, I can't tell if I would need the 1157s or the 1157r, or if there is even a difference between the two.

Thanks!   

I've been chasing an electrical issue with my car.  Six months ago I replaced my turn signal switch (thanks B. Gaines for the hint about removing the steering wheel), and everything was working great; horn, hazards, blinkers, brake lights, turn signals all worked.  After driving around for a few weeks, someone told me that my passenger brakes weren't working.  So I went home, checked them (verified wiring sequences with my shop manual) and they were working fine. 

Couple drives later, I kept checking to see that they were working, and I noticed the passenger brake/hazards weren't working one day.  I figured that a wire may have come loose from the connection under the steering column, but they were all just fine.  I re-plugged the connector and everything worked fine.  However, couple days later I noticed the same thing with my passenger lights working sometimes and sometimes not. 

Now they don't work at all (passenger brake and hazard), and I'm scratching my head.  When I turn on my running lights, both sides (passenger and driver sides) work (not a bulb grounding issue).  Did I get a crummy turn signal switch?  Any suggestions on what else I should check?       

Thanks in advance for any help!
Jim

Thanks KR500. I have both flasher located near my heater control, so I was surprised to see this one. I've owned this car for 7 years now, so I'm always learning something new.

I replaced my clock this morning, and I noticed this blue relay (not sure what to call it) that wasn't connected to anything. The wiring diagram book has it labeled as flasher assembly. Looking at pictures online, and I don't see this blue assembly on any other cluster.  My flasher relay is located behind my heater controls, am I missing something here? 

I've been trying to remove my steering wheel very gently over the last 3 days.  It was recommended to me to use some Free All (liquid wrench) and some gentle taps with a rubber hammer to remove the steering wheel, and to repeat this approach until the steering wheel came loose.  After multiple attempts over 72 hours, I had to try something new. 

So after reading Bob Gaines' method listed above, I ran over to Harbor Freight for the chisel attachment, cut the end off, grinded it down smooth, and in less than 1 minute I had the steering wheel was off.  Very easy approach, and thanks for sharing it! 

Here is my celebratory picture shortly after removal...  One has to celebrate the wins.

I have used kits from Muscle Car Research:
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-kit-wagner-dist
Check your rubber rings closely - some are "O" rings and some are "X" rings.
I have had problems using an O ring where an X ring should go resulting in seepage through the differential switch.  The NPD kit doesn't look like it contains any X rings.
Kurt.

Kurt,
Looking at the product information sheet on NPD, it's noted that the package contains 2 x-rings and 1 o-ring. I believe the single o-ring is for the later model brake distribution block. Thanks for noting that, but I think this package from NPD will work. I just have to wait a painful 3 days for it to be delivered...

Can't wait to drive!!!!

After numerous searches, it looks like NPD has it.  If anyone else is looking for one, here is the link to the part:  https://www.npdlink.com/product/rebuild-kit-brake-pressure-differential-valve/169774

I'm looking for the seals that go on the piston and the metal seal that goes in the end threaded connection of the distribution block. I have already taken care of the rear proportioning valve, but thanks for the help on that.

I'm needing to rebuild my brake distributor, but I'm having issues finding the right rebuild kit.  The only one that I find that looks legit is from West Coast Classic Cougars, but I wanted to check here before I purchase.  Does anyone have any leads on the right 67 rebuild kit for the brake distributor? 

Thanks in advance!