Messages

If anyone can recommend a person or shop in this area that would be great.

Thanks,
Tony S

For replacement hard brake lines I'd like some opinions/suggestions.
Stainless or regular mild steel ?
Also, any preference for supplier,  Classic Tube or Fine Lines.

Thanks,
TonyS

Solid info to start on.

Thanks Bob,
Much appreciated.

TonyS

69 GT500,  All stock, wiring etc.
Problem with the horns.
If both are plugged in they produce no sound.
Have to unplug the hi-pitch horn to get the low-pitch to work.
If the low pitch is unplugged the high pitch does not work.
Both horns were tested independently off the car and operate properly. 
Correct me if I am wrong but the Mustang does not use a horn relay.
I'm not very strong on electricals.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
TonyS

I would have a pro paint the car and that would mean focusing on the handful of A-list individuals/shops we are all familiar with.

I wouldn't have anyone run a 80 grit DA sander over the sheet metal or god forbid original
fiberglass.
You can kiss your high crown panels goodbye.
Just to emphasize, I did not sand my original factory SMC fiberglass however aftermarket replacement panels with a gloss gelcoat would have to be sanded before priming.
Concerning sheet metal, I've used most of the etching phosphoric acids, Metalprep, Sherwin Williams Dual Etch,
Dupont's ,the PPG product (can't remember their names) since I was a teenager and always had excellent results.
Just follow the directions.

Thanks,
TonyS
 

Why is it always recommended to put light sand scratches in bare sheet metal before priming?
I know it promotes adhesion but the factory never did this.
If you've ever stripped original paint using chemical stripper as I have many times you will not find any scratched sheet metal.   

There are plenty of original paint gems around showing no signs of peeling or lifting. Case in point, the Bob Perkins collection.
With the vast improvements in paint/primer chemistry what is the need for scratching virgin sheet metal???

I've only painted panels not a complete vehicle and my paintwork is as solid as the day it was applied and
it has been 20+ years.
On sheet metal I've used a Metalprep type chemical etching as per label instructions followed by PPG DP74.
On my original 69 Shelby fiberglass front valance after chem stripping and without any light sanding I used PPG DP50 and again no hint of an issue after 20+ years.
I was told to clean the fiberglass well and the DP50 will grab like hell.
If you've ever chem stripped original fiberglass panels you'll see they are as smooth as a baby's ass.

Just my thoughts and limited experience.
Thanks,
TonyS     
   

When refurbing the interior of my original 69 GT500 I noticed the windlace had a flat or square face.
The windlace sold by most all of the well known parts suppliers at the time was noticeably different as it had a rounded face.
I managed to locate a South Carolina business that was restoring deluxe door panels at the time named "Andy's Door Panels".
Andy's had the exact type of windlace and of course I purchased it.
That was long ago and I think Andy's no longer exists.
Is the correct for 69-70 square windlace still available?

Thanks
TonyS

Curious, with very few manufacturers producing 3 finger Long pressure plates I'd like to know
what clutches other big block owners are running.
I was thinking of a McLeod diaphragm.
Also, I currently have a Ford rebuilt long style 11.5 in my GT500.
Is it wise to  have the pressure plate rebuilt?
Who would be best for a rebuild, Fort Wayne Clutch for example.

Thanks,
TonyS.   

Thanks Bob,
For years the "BIG" Shelby parts suppliers listed a Motorcraft gas cap that supposed to fit the 69/70s'
It wasn't close to fitting.

I had the same issue of way too much side to side play.
However, mine was due to a dumbbell mechanic strong arming the wheel not due to a restoration.
I dug deep into the mechanism and found that there was excessive play between the parking pawl and the collar.
You may want to check this.
I know it can be a frustrating problem and very few are experts with the tilt mechanism.

Anyone know of a currently available non-vented fuel cap for the 1969's.
Don't need concours just a cap that is reliably non-vented.

Thanks,
TonyS

Had the clock from my 69 GT500 repaired several years ago but it suddenly stopped working.
Orig movement not quartz conversion.
Any recommendations for mechanical repair.
Car is always garaged and there is no UV damage or fading.

Thanks,
TonyS

I have all the trim off and the 2 screws removed from the front radio bracket but the radio won't budge.
I'm thinking the dash pad has to be removed and there must be some sort of rear bracket holding the radio and preventing removal.
(I've had the pad off many times for various reasons.)
Any tips appreciated.
Thanks,
TonyS

Just purchased a solid state sequential taillight control board from Branda.
I also purchased the required turn signal flasher.

Upon reading the instructions it is recommended to replace the emergency flasher however
the instructions show an old Ford part number.

Does anyone have a current manufacturer and part number for this?

Thanks,
TonyS

Thanks to all for the info.
Yes, I did manage to order the Fel-Pro 55035 gaskets.

Also,  A big shout out to Royce Peterson.
Don't know you personally but I do remember your posts on the old FE Engine Forum.
They provided me with volumes of solid information.

I did catch your stunning blue and silver 68 Cougar at Carlisle  2005 or 2006, 2007, don't remember
Best regards,
TonyS