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I disconnected the rubber hose from the pump and tried the 'tennis ball and air pressure' method to pressurize the tank and it worked!  Within a few seconds, fuel was flowing from the hose, so the fuel line is all clear.   The fuel line from pump to carb is also clear.   So unfortunately, time to rebuild the Carter X again. 

Thanks guys,

The carb did get some gas when I first tried to start it after several years, and the accelerator pump was squirting, but that has now now stopped.

I have removed and replaced the short rubber hose section from the tank to the main fuel line. A little fuel drained from the Main fuel line.  The tank drained steadily until I fitted the new hose. So I guess the fuel sender is clear.

I pulled the rubber hose that connects the fuel line to the Fuel pump and a little fuel drained from it.  I pulled the inlet filter from the carb and it was clean and bone dry.  Not getting any gas at all. 

I like the 'tennis ball and air pressure' method to pressurize the tank.  If gas flows at the inner fender it should indicate that the pump is the problem.  If there is no flow, is there a way of clearing the fuel line?  Just air pressure to blow it out?  Carb cleaner and air pressure?

I rebuilt the pump myself with a new kit back in 2013.  I was hoping not to have to do it again because that piece of metal you have to punch across the pin looks like it only has one shot before it breaks away.  But if all the lines prove to be clear it must be the pump. 

Guys,

I have just taken my KR out of strorage where it has been laid up for nearly 3 years.  Fresh oil with ZDDP, new filter.  All the old gas siphoned out of the tank, new gas into the tank.  Ignition system needed some work, bu5 is now making spark.


The problem now is that carb is not getting gas.  I removed the the old gas (which really did smell like old varnish). Replaced the tank to fuel line rubber hose which had deteriorated badly.

I figure that either the fuel is blocked or the fuel pump (Carter X 4441S, rebuilt 2013) has failed. 

I am seeking advice on how I can narrow down the problem.  If it is a blocked - how to clear the blockage?

How to detect if the fuel pump has failed?

I have read every forum post that contains the word 'Pertronix' and I am still not entirely clear if it can be done while keeping a functioning tach?

I am not an auto electrician but I can read the wiring diagrams.   Is there one best way to fit the PerTronix 2 or 3, with a higher output coil, and with full 12V, while maintaining tach functionality, and not starting a fire somewhere?

That is good news!    I think the 225/65R15 May be the choice, on 15 x 7 10 spokes.  They seem to be an almost exact diameter match for the original E70/15#

I've heard the Avons are real sticky and handle great, but they pick up more stones and will sandblast your paint due to their stickiness. 

       I've been running, AVON CR6ZZ's, for over 12 years, with no sandblasting, of my Shelby's paint and I've
       been participating in the GT350 Tours, for the past several years, along with my usual driving. I have all
       4 corners, mounted with 225/65 x 15's on 15 x 8" PS Eng. wheels.

       Doug

The Goodyear Eagle GTIIs are 4 x P235/60R15.

No feedback yet? I thought there would be many opinions on tire choices.

After reading many posts on the forum, I am convinced not to attempt to fit bias-ply because of the driving characteristics.  I would still consider Firestone Wide Oval bias-look Radials because they seem to be the only late-60s looking radial available currently.

There is also a lot of discussion about Avons, and many positive reviews.  So I have looked at the Avon selection and narrowed it down to these contenders.  I think the Avon 205/70R15 would be closest to the original, but the Avon 225/65R15 would get me the original equipment diameter, the right profile, and a little more width on the road. The Avon 225/60R15 is an inch smaller in diameter than original equipment.

Has anyone used these tires on a 67/68 Shelby or have any advice on these possible contenders?  Thanks

Original equipment - Goodyear Polyglas GT Blackwall tires  E70/15  RIMS 7”   DIAMETER 26.73”  SECTION WIDTH 8.40”  TREAD WIDTH  6.63”




Avon  CR6ZZ-DOT   205/70R15 96V     RIMS 6.0-7.0     DIAMETER 26.7    SECTION WIDTH 8.3    TREAD WIDTH 6.6

Avon  CR6ZZ-DOT   225/60R15 96V    RIMS  6.0-8.0   DIAMETER 25.7    SECTION WIDTH 9.13    TREAD WIDTH  8.07

Avon  CR6ZZ-DOT    225/65R15 99V   RIMS  6.5-8.0    DIAMETER  26.7    SECTION WIDTH 9.1    TREAD WIDTH  7.9



Also a wider 245/60R15, perhaps for the rear tires only.  Can these be mounted on a 15 x 7 rim? 

Avon  CR6ZZ-DOT  245/60R15 100V   RIMS  7.5-9.0   DIAMETER    26.7    SECTION WIDTH 9.9   TREAD WIDTH   8.7

Guys,

It has been a while since I posted here, and I see all my old posts have disappeared.

It is time to put some new tires on the KR. It currently has some 2008 vintage Goodyear Eagle GT II fitted, so they are becoming time expired rather than worn out.

If I was a purist I would put Goodyear Polyglas E70/15 blackwalls on the car.  However, I have recently driven a 69 Dodge Charger fitted with bias ply Firestone Wide Ovals and did not enjoy wandering all over the road, following the cracks in the bitumen etc.  When those Wide Ovals were replaced with bias-look radial Wide Ovals it was a huge improvement.

So if not repro bias ply Goodyears, then what? What else gives it a period look but is safe to drive?  I was thinking about bias-look Firestone Wide Ovals with raised white lettering - would look the period but not correct for the car.

What about Avon C6ZZ?  They have simple 1960s style tread and quite a square profile.  You could leave them black for a sort of correct look?

Any other suggestions?

Mike