Messages

Guys,

Thank you for all the assistance. After removal it was only a small drip from one side. After disassembly, and cleaning there was no scoring or corrosion, just a small piece of something on one of the seals. Everything was pliable, no swelling and pistons were clean and smooth. So I went ahead and cleaned it all up and reassembled. Took it for a short hop this afternoon and all seems well.

Thanks again for all your expertise......

Rodney,

Thank you.... wheel cylinder is already loose as I have undone and capped the brake fluid line and removed both retaining bolts.

How best to compress the cylinder pins as I think I can wiggle it out past both return springs from there....?

Bob

Noticed a slight drip on the left rear inside tire.

After disassembly it appears one side of my brake cylinder is the source.

My questions are;

Can I remove the wheel cylinder without disassembling the whole brake shoe(s) assembly ? It is a little tight in there.....

Are the wheel cylinders on a late '67 7/8" or 15/16" ?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Bob

The only real negative about the thread is no back to back testing.

600 double pumper vs 715 3259-1

Out of the box, I would typically think a 600 makes for easier running, the 715 with effort to dial in will end up being the top performer.

Of note too:
The carb he sent me was actually super freakin cool.
It was an original 3259-1 but it had zamac welded like I've never seen before. The effort put into making the carb a double pumper with staging linkage was pretty cool.
As delivered to me, it was in VS form, but the secondary pump nozzle boss and the boss for the linkage was still present. It was clearly modified after 1970 as it used a first issue double pumper baseplate (before I got it)

I'd have bought the carb from him just to convert it back to race form.

Drew

Drew,

I just read this post now for the first time..... I'm going to send you an email or PM regarding this.

Thanks,
Bob

Being the OP, I am certainly grateful for all the responses on this topic.....and I hope it is helpful for anyone else.

You guys were right to recommend sending it to Drew. Just got the carb back on the car and I have zero issues. Drew did a great job, so thank you everyone for recommending him.

Because he is that good!


John

+22

Neither a new o-ring or rubber gasket worked.

I'll be on the hunt for a replacement, but since my a/c has been in boxes and not installed in a few years, I'll probably just take the valve out of the loop and install the hose direct to the heater.

Again, thanks to both Bob and Royce for the assistance.

Guys,

I think I found the smoking gun..... after a more detailed inspection... I can see where the o-ring groove is in the triangular base plate of the valve. Looks like it may have been replaced by a thin rubber gasket. After peeling the gasket off the removable plate.... I see a small amount of corrosion on the plate, and the rubber gasket appears to have some tiny age cracks...... I guess I can clean it all up, make a new gasket and give it a little coating of RTV for assembly.....

I hope this is it....I appreciate your assistance Royce and Bob.

Three screws hold the valve to the bracket. You have to remove the three screws to see the O ring and the corrosion on the bracket. The valve must first be removed from the car.

Done did that..... and the gasket was in tact as well.... thats how I could see inside and the plunger/piston bottom or top.

Actually nothing rusted out that I can see....and actually the valve being crusty on the exterior, is extremely clean on the inside.... ?  I run a 50/50 mix....but I cant say whet the POs ran in FL and CA before me...... the piston inside moves freely, but cant really see the range of motion. How does the valve come apart so I can check the o-ring ?

Thank you Bob.....

I will remove later it this week and report back as to I can see/identify.

Due to living in the southeast, and the car being black..... I don't think I have ever turned the heat on.... could that be part of my problem, or partly to blame ?

Bob

Yesterday.... out for a nice fall cruise. All was going well.... running well on fresh 93 pure......good oil press and water temp.

On the way home I notice all of a sudden the water temp gauge goes down to nothing, then pulling into my driveway I hear a little hissss.... by the time I get out and open the hood, full on hissing and a little steam from the water valve on the passenger side of the firewall..... small puddle of coolant about the size of a basketball....

I assume after 56 years the old valve has given up......  Do these things wear out, and when is the best place to get a good replacement.... NPD ?

Thanks in advance.

[" I think the owner made some poor choices that will be expensive. "]

" I think the owner made some poor choices that will be expensive. "
 

Why change the color from sunlit gold.....according to the M report it was one of 83, or something like that....... ?

SFM stamped font on passenger apron is the same as 1965 production from what I see..... serifed 'SFM' is correct for very early, in this case the second,  1966 production.... is it not ?  As is the serifed 'S' on the SAI vin plate....?

Rich,

So the Z prefix was an inventory marking during, or after, or both...... the SAI to FoMoCo transition ? 

Thanks in advance,

Bob