Messages

Thank you, Ron.
Good luck with the conversion!
They're always such fun, even when the go well.
We actually do appreciate the work you do.

jim

Many thanks for the link! Cool video.

Ya, I noticed this too in the mentioned time periods.
Not grumbling.... just sayin'

Thanks for that insight Bob.

j

Shawn,

If that's the case, I would see your local parts house guy/girl. FWIW the Rock Auto site lists a 10x2 drum for that year. I would have thought the 390's came with the bigger size - but you need a reliable way to research that.

jim

Shawn,

IDK about the backing plate/drum change (I've got a '66) but if you are looking for a driveability work-around I would look into some of the more aggressive friction compounds. I'm running Porterfield's R-4 compound but I'm sure there are several other brands as well that will give you better braking with the setup you already have. Just a thought.

j

Just showed up in New Jersey in last night's mail

Enjoy the driving!

jim

Dave,

This is just confirmation on your later units sheet, but I thought it would help fill out your dataset. It accompanied the car when I got it in 69. Not sure why it got so faded out, but it was (is) blue as you have detailed.

jim

My pleasure!
Of course I should also caution you as to the going down the path of Webers - they are deceptively simple and complex at the same time. Want to change a main jet?... there's 8 of 'em. It's real easy to end up with box of shiny gold color parts that'll rival your wife's jewelry box <g>
Still, there's nothing quite like em.

jim

Yup. Just don't go overboard on the velocity stacks.

jim

The Centerforce is a diaphragm type clutch disc with the added benefit of moveable weights on the "fingers" to assist with weight balance at higher RPM. The stock OEM was a 3 finger Long Type. The OEM clutch would load the pedal pressure as you added heavier duty clutch units and had a nasty habit of wearing out (or breaking) the pot-metal bushing under the dash - it only had a plastic, anti-friction liner. Initially we went to pillow-block bearings for the clutch shaft, but the Centerforce design made that less necessary and is a lot easier to drive with.

jim

I put a WC T5Z in 1801 back in 2006. I worked with Bruce at Modern Driveline. There were a couple of back & forths but he worked through them with me quite satisfactorily. To begin with, I have a COBRA scattershield and the first adapter plate did not line up (bolt pattern). Bruce got me a different one and it was spot on. I used his cross member and shifter assembly and did not need any modifications to the tunnel or bodywork. The driveshaft did need to be shortened, but rather than modify my original, I worked with a local shop and we just built and balanced a new one. It is not a very expensive project and I have the original setup intact, if I go back to the T-10. As a sidenote on the driveshaft - when I changed my gears from 3.89 to 3.50, 2 years ago, I put in a complete 3rd member and needed to alter the driveshaft again (there's another learning experience on pinion & universal sizing). Once again it was cheaper and easier to have a new driveshaft built and balanced than to modify.

Of all the changes I have made, the T5Z is no doubt the most useful. Last spring we drove down the Blue Ridge Parkway to the Tail of the Dragon. It was 1800 miles and seven states in 10 days, and after the run, just being able to cruise home on the interstate was worth the price of admission.

Nice picture!  Does the staggered size setup lead to dartiness on straight roads or notably increased understeer?

Thanks - the picture was taken running the Tail of the Dragon last June.
The staggered sizing doesn't seem to change the dartiness over the original mags & tires. I attribute that more to the Caster setting being closer to "straight up" at +2. It's a real workout driving slow <g>. I can't say I notice any increase in understeer.

Jim

Blue is currently running Torq-Thrust D's; 15x7 w/ -6mm offset and 215/60R15 upfront; 15x8 w/ 0mm offset and 235/60R15 in the rear. BFG Radial T/A's all around
I have the front A arms lowered 1". The fender lips have been rolled and I have no rubbing issues. It took a bit of massaging to get to this but well worth the effort.

Jim