Messages

I just shake my head when Tony decides to put his bumper for TWICE the price of yours, Greg, and calls it "competitive". I'm still not sure why the mods tolerate his antics. A Troll if ever one was defined. I would buy yours except I'm leaving on a month long vacation.

Ok let me ask a question here. I have a right+left fender made from the original Ford Tooling and still in the box, some here maybe remember these were made some years ago. What are these worth? I have seen some that sold a while ago for something I couldn't believe.

Were 67 Fenders date coded like other years? That would be one indication on value. My 68 fenders the date codes are clear on the fender. I know being in the trade that depending on "breakage" and how good the die(s)were repaired would get you a part that may differ some from an assy line piece. 2 glaring examples are 67-8 rocker moldings and I know 69-70 Mustang bumpers that in 1981 were different than my assy line pieces when I bought a pair from my local Ford dealership(besides not having assy line date codes). I re-chomed my originals at a much higher cost.

Every day therere are loads of "sponsored" scam websites on Fakebook. Everyone I report Fakebook turns me down to get them pulled and they stay up. I guess Zuck needs the money and doesn't care if his media platform is full of scammers these days. Ever since he got rid of the fact checkers these car ads have exploded.

Yes.

What car(s) do you own? I've been thinking for years to contact them regarding doing some repairs. I'm on the other side in Novi.

I just used Shelby Auto Trim, Inc. for that same issue.  He has been in business for about 40 years and does excellent work at a fair price.  The shop is in Sterling Heights, MI at 586-939-9090.

Are you in the area?

To me ,yes. I'm looking for a Dec to late Jan . Thanks.

All great feedback for me. Thank you. I don't care about numbers matching myself, but if someone is buying for investment purposes then its important. But noted already, those buyers would not be interested in non- matching most likely. I want to be realistic about value however. Quite frankly the reason I am looking to sell it is it is worth too much for me to enjoy and I don't have the passion for it. I have several classic cars all of which i drive often and am more relaxed at cruises etc. They don't draw the same crowd as the GT 350 but I'm good with not having that. I can't shake my Pontiac roots! BTW im starting to get involved in 30's Hot Rodding. This is a lot of fun with an awesome following due to the custom nature of the cars... Great people. Thanks all!

Why not come to a conclusion what you would like to get for your car then contact BaT or another auction venue and see what reserve they would let you put on it. If it meets what you would want auction it. It cost 99 bucks. You will have a lot more people looking at the car than you would ever have selling it on your own. I've also see Hemmings and ACC Auctions but not sure on their costs or rules. Good luck.

Since cars can vary in price greatly how do we really know if the hit is 15-20, 20-25? I have sold over the decades many non matching numbers cars and got what I would say is top dollar for many of them as in if it had the original engine it wouldn't have brought more. My last was my 68 GT350 painted the wrong color, the whole drivetrain wasn't original. Engine was date coded correct only because the prior owner happened to buy the engine and it was a match for the car. Black with red stripes. I watched many 68 GT350 FBs sell back in early 2013 and talked to some well known sellers of Shelbys what the going rate would be for a non concours nice driver. I got 75K for it. The color with stripes sold the car. My drag pack GT500 70 FB non original engine. Color changed and I got top dollar for it when it was sold. As a matter of fact in the early 2000s the price it sold for at BJ was the highest at that time for a 69-70 FB 500.It was already a 12 year resto at that point. Then I remember Milt Robson's 71 HEMI Cuda vert setting records(NOM). Then a certain L88 67 Vette way back when. My point? It is subjective and it could go either way depending on the car and buyers at the time. Now B9 buyers I see a distinctive premium for original engines. I'd rather have good bones and a correct non original engine than a numbers matching "Frankenstein".

At the end of Nov I posted and I missed posts here(I thought I had alerts?). Anyways here is still a partial list of what I'm looking for. Sorry to those I didn't respond to back then.  I thought I had a good lead on a few parts from the list  but waiting on the seller so need to get this back out there. Thanks. Gary
Front top header panel(no damage only)
lower valance(could have slight damage and is repairable)
DS end cap
Early GT350/500 air cleaner
DS smog tube(428).
Anti backfire valve (car build date 1-29-68)
rear upper deluxe comfort weave seat(will buy the upper/lower if necessary)FB
LH inside door handle NOS or excellent used
mint dash bezel pieces
NOS DS side mirror.
428 PI  carb spacer
NOS ext. door handles
NOS backup lamps

Very nice car Bret. Almost looks grabber green with the overcast.

When does the Battery get Judged?  When it goes through Tech to get put in the right Judging Class or when it is Parked in its assigned Spot and after the Owner Details the Car for Judging? If it is after the Owner Details the Car for Judging, then why does it matter, just shine up the Dead F24/F27 Battery and swap it out at the Show?  I have seen many people do that.

The battery typically gets judged on the show field when judging for that car begins.Many entrants switch out the battery when the car gets to its judging spot.

Thanks. That is exactly what was done with my friend's B9 at French Lick(survivor gold).

I buy Costco and my friend has bought Rural King batteries for our cars. A few years ago they "had" 3 group 27s in stock at RK for 70 bucks. The guy pulled down 3 pallets and couldn't find it. I think I paid 92 at Costco. My friend is still running his RK group 27 in his 70 Gt500 vert with no issues.

OK what about using an aftermarket battery when being judged to show everything works then a factory battery put in? Is that acceptable?

I tried 2 different web browsers this morning and I cannot reach the site.

If someone is going to invest in the shocks it is important to let them know that the C9ZX -C rear shocks are for a Automatic GT500 . The front shocks were used for ether 4sp or auto. Best of luck with the sale of the rare shocks.

would they also be correct for a GT350?