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Hi Mike - I have a 2009 Highland Green Bullitt but it's not for sale. Not sure what you're looking to do, but if I can help I will. Thanks!


~Kevin

Post counts are irrelevant to me. Won't bother me a bit if they're removed.


Doug brings up a good point about the SAAC forum allowing anyone to actively participate in all but the solitary "Members Only" category. Personally, I think it should be the other way around. SAAC members should be able to post anywhere, anyone could read all but the Member Only section but also have one specific section for non-members to chirp away.


My greater concern however is that this forum software is now 6 years out of date and several revisions behind. That leads me to believe that maybe there are also no back-ups. So, eventually Version 2 will go the way of Version 1.

I don't read the digital quarterlies. I wait for the annual printed version.

Maybe they will reconsider now.  Tell them you could have put out your own fire.

You know how fast a tanker can go?
Safest insurance risk in the world?

I will say I drove from North Ga to north Fla in a car rally and beat 11 cars in it.....

I called Heacock to see about insuring my 1995 F250 because I know that Auto Owners will beat me up if it gets in a wreck. Heacock wouldn't insure it for two reasons - it's not "collectable" according to them and they won't cover it at all if I pull a trailer. 

Great improvement from the old site - thanks!


I did find one broken link; on saac.com/events at the bottom of the page is a link to the Regional reps pointing to saac.com/reps.html that doesn't work.


Also, it would be awesome if the forum could get updated to the latest version of Simple Machines before it crashes like forum 1.0.

I'm looking for a set of interior lower quarter trim panels for a 1968 Mustang GT restomod project that I'm working on. I will be modifying them, so ones with cracks or blemishes would work just fine. Any color. I don't necessarily need the Shelby style panels with the roll bar cutouts, but those would work as I have a roll bar in relatively the same spot.


I can pick up new ones at NPD an hour away for $270 but I was hoping to save some $$$ if someone has something kicking around that they no longer intend to use. I also have several stock items that I won't be using on this rebuild, so maybe we can trade? Thanks!


Kevin - Crystal River, FL

The SSL/TLS security is enabled. However, the Simple Machines version SMF 2.0.15 which was released in November 2017 is several software revisions out of date. The current version is SFM 2.1.2


It's only a matter of time before Forum 2.0 crashes. Hopefully there is a database backup now.

There's no doubt that Webers have a tremendous amount of eye appeal. And, when they're set up properly (for weather, altitude, cam design, etc.) they can put a smile on your face when you mash the pedal that will take weeks to wear off. But one of the main reasons they were used back in the day for the highest of high performance normally aspirated engines is that they are infinitely adjustable without removing them from the car. Quick, easy changes at the race track. That makes them ideal for the expert who knows what they're doing and a can of worms for those who don't.


Ask Inglese how he knows so much about them. He's done every possible thing wrong - but - he learned from his mistakes. I'd rather pay someone to cut to the chase rather than spend years trying everything that doesn't work.

Paul,


The only guy that I personally have experience with is Jim Inglese and his shop is in Lake City, FL which would require removing the intake manifold and shipping it back & forth. If the setup just needs tweaking that would probably be overkill. But if they have some years on them and haven't ever been properly set up before, he could go through them and make them right for that application. When he sends them back they are ready to bolt on and make final idle adjustments and go. He would also be available to follow up with you when they were reinstalled to help you get them dialed in right. (And no, this is not a paid advertorial!)


However, if they were running right recently and have been gone through within the last decade it might be best to find someone local to trooubleshoot or tune them.


You do not say which engine these are on and whether it is running a cam optimized for Webers. They are a decidedly different animal than a traditional plenum manifold and require a cam that is designed to work with individual runners to get the best results. It's my understanding that almost any Weber will work at idle and wide open throttle at RPM, it's the 1500-3500 RPM range where they need to be set up correctly or they will stumble. Your friend's car sounds like it's running rich. If it was lean you would hear 'popping' through the exhaust.


To set them right you'll need an airflow meter and a couple different sizes of jets (there are three different ones; main, idle and air corrector). These are initially selected based on the engine and engine mods, so if these carburetors came off a different engine, that could also be problematic.


The good news is that once dialed in they work great for a long time!


~Kevin

This reminds me of a lesson I learned the hard way on my first car - a 67 Mustang fastback 289 auto. I replaced the power steering control valve but didn't mark each hose when I disconnected them. This car also had one of those tiny 10" three spoke aftermarket steering wheels. After putting in the new control valve I hopped into the car while it was still on blocks (cinder blocks because I was an idiot!) and as soon as the engine fired that steering wheel spun at about 10,000 RPM to the left until the wheels were in full lock but not before whacking the ever lovin' crap out of my left thumb since my left hand was holding on to the wheel as I was cranking it.


Hard lesson learned and I've never made that mistake again in the almost 50 years since.

This line highlighting the writer's "qualifications" explains it all:

Like many kids growing up in the era, your author had an HO-scale Aurora slot car racetrack—a kit that featured Shelby Mustang GT350s on the box.

I've had Heacock for 5 years. Never filed a claim, but when Doug (shlby66) told me how well they handled his claim, I figured that I can't do better. Since SAAC now also partners with Hagerty I figured that I would get a quote as my policy renewed July 1st. Priced same agreed value and mileage for modified 68 GT350 and 2009 Bullitt. Hagerty was about 250% MORE per year than Heacock!

I would definitely shop around. Different cars, different driving records, locations, etc. will make a difference. Good luck!

Thats an  original 70 shelby window sticker and very rare and john b. has an interesting story on how he found it. Remember all the 70 shelby paperwork was changed over from the 69 paperwork. The original window sticker is the rarest and hardest to find paperwork on any car as it was usually damaged when removed from car so yes it adds value to any car.

As the current owner of John's 1968 GT350 and after many conversations with him I would agree with Special Ed that John surely has an interesting story about how he found it. He has tons of interesting stories! He should digitally record them and sell 'em on eBay!
~Kevin

It's working normally for me also. My bookmark is to the main page https://saacforum.com and my browser remembers which of the sections I've expanded (or hidden). At the right side of each section title are links to Unread Posts and a + or - sign that will expand or hide that section.


Go to the page/view where you want to start and bookmark that page (or change your current bookmark to that URL). I hopes this helps.
~Kevin

Again the question is would YOU sell below market because the buyer was on the saac forum..

Not generally. But if it was a SAAC member in South Florida I might triple the price.