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If at all possible, use ethanol free on the older vehicles.  Use Sta-Bil in them also, and any fuel in fuel storage cans.
My mowers, 1969 and 1970 Mustangs both run better on the ethanol free stuff.

I'm thinking that all the rubber fuel parts manufactured in the last 20 years, are ethanol compliant.  So if you've done maintenance on fuel systems, your parts are probably OK with the ethanol.

I also got mine.   Flipped through to check out some stuff.  Placed on the bottom of the reading stack.  But there is just a magazine and a half finished book ahead of it. 

Photo's are of a Blue car, description had "Red".  All terrain.  "Worried about the vehicles history, Don't Be!".  "Shelby Base"?

And....since I can't "Swing by" the dealership to test drive it, and then they offer shipping.....Yes Please!  Ship it to me and I'll test drive it.....If I like it I'll wire you $90,000 but then you will have to REFUND me...and if I don't like it, the "dealer' can ship it back. 

I hope no one gets bit......

Sounds like the IVR.  When mine failed, the electrical gauges all took turns pegging.  Then return to normal...NOPE, one is headed back to peg again.....wait it didn't make it but here comes the.....  It's a pain to get to on some of the cars. 

It seems there are always people with a lot of money, buying into what they perceive to be investments.  I remember the market crash of October 1987. I was building a shop.  I had the funds to build the shop with sweat equity, or buy a 1966 GT350.  I decided to build the shop.   Then the market lost 20 percent.   Lots of people cashed out of the stock/bond markets and bought into items they could "put their hands on".   Art, Wine, antiques, CARS.  By the next year, that GT350 had doubled in value.  Many were purchased by people who heard about "GT350" when they wrote a check for the car.   It also happened with art work, wines.   I was waiting for the news where someone saw a bottle of some fancy antique wine sold for $10,000, so they bought a bottle for $8000.  Great deal!   (for a 1976 bottle of Bartles & James......LOL). 

I will wait a month and see, but so far I never saw it.

Why wait?  Logoff.   Then log back on and look for the tiny check box for staying connected "Forever".  It isn't the default.  I've not had to logon since the new forum went live. 

Great advice above. 
My 428 did this also.  My timing was off.  The running on you describe is a hint towards that.  You might need to have the distributor reworked if you are confident and triple checked the timing.
I also had to learn on big blocks (428), how they like their coolant in the radiator.  on our 302 Mustang, I can fill the radiator to within about an inch of the top of the place where the radiator cap forms the seal.  Look inside the radiator and you will see the lip.   That worked fine for the 302.  So that would be the top tank filled to halfway when cold.  I tried to do that with the 428 and it would dump out coolant.  I'd refill it.  It would dump it.   Once I got the timing correct, it would still dump coolant.  I discussed with a long time Ford man who had built the motor and he said let it dump it.   Then let it cool.  The next day, check the fluid and call him with the results.  The coolant then was about half an inch over the top of the down tubes within the radiator.  I called him and he said "perfect....that's where about all the 390's on up will have the coolant".   I also learned to ignore the electrical in-dash temperature gauge here in Texas.  It will be just a needle width under halfway when fully warmed and driving down the freeway at 65 MPH.  When I stop at a light, it will start creeping up until it is at the 3/4 mark on the way to HOT.  It never reaches the full HOT side.  But you can really feel the heat under that hood, on that firewall, in the garage when I park it. 

On our daily drivers, about 3 or 4 times a year, I remove the air filters and drop them flat on the driveway.  Surprising how much dirt will drop out on the first drop.  Subsequent drops don't knock out as much.   I replace them on the mileage recommendations.  The interior cabin filters on the three newer cars get changed once a year. 
If you filter was really dirty, there might have been a slight increase in response. 

i used wax&grease remover on mine. soaked in a cookie sheet. worked great on the one i found under the carpet.  i'm not sure it would remove old tape.  great find

Look, when the full-body hazmat suits came out I couldn't watch anymore!   

    Scott.

I thought of Marty McFly.....

Thanks for the great story.  Jim and I traded parts that are still on my 428 Mach CJ.  He got my set of 1969 Shelby mags. 

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Some of the oil will drain back from the cooler but certainly not all.

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter.

Question from the peanut gallery.  I've never had a car with the oil cooler and never looked into them.  Is it part of the oil change process to drain the cooler?  If so, then I can see adding the additional for the cooler.  But on a normal oil change on a car with an oil cooler, if you can't drain the cooler, you are, 1: Leaving some quantity of old oil in it 2: won't need to add the additional oil.  Unless you have somehow drained the cooler.  Or an I missing something?

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter.

Question from the peanut gallery.  I've never had a car with the oil cooler and never looked into them.  Is it part of the oil change process to drain the cooler?  If so, then I can see adding the additional for the cooler.  But on a normal oil change on a car with an oil cooler, if you can't drain the cooler, you are, 1: Leaving some quantity of old oil in it 2: won't need to add the additional oil.  Unless you have somehow drained the cooler.  Or an I missing something?

Draining the oil cooler and lines is not part of the typical oil change process. Some of the oil will drain back from the cooler but certainly not all. Start with 5 Qts run the engine then check and only add oil if needed. If on a A/C car with oil cooler and the factory short oil filter(for this application) it will probably only need a little extra vs. the longer filter which will require a little more.   

Thank you Bob.
I'm a 1970 428 CJ, Dearborn built in 12/1969, no oil cooler but with AC, PS, PDB, C6.   I've don't drive it hard, and hardly at all come to think about it.  It has the windage tray on it.  Years ago I filled it with 6 quarts and etched a line on the dipstick and go by that line.  It doesn't burn oil or leak (much) so on the oil change I dump in the 6 quarts, warm it up and check the level.  I guess it's been working for me for 20 years now as I've not had the engine open in 30 years.   

Doug has some good information but I am afraid that too much info may be confusing for Steve the OP. For a stock 68 KR not run on the track 5 quarts of oil is what the Ford documentation suggests to use and consequently would be prudent to go by.

Bob, Steve did not mention this car has an oil cooler. How much additional oil should he add?

Good question. Only A/C 67 and 68 GT500 cars received the oil cooler plus a extra short Fram oil filter(from the factory) for ground clearance. The shorter yet same diameter oil filter used on this special application has a decreased oil capacity compared to a typical stock FL1 oil filter. There is not a listing for the extra capacity that the oil cooler and lines adds in any Ford documentation that I am aware of. I would start with a half a quart then run the engine and re check. Add oil if any as needed. Of course things are dependent on if you use the short filter like factory on the A/C application or the longer filter.

Question from the peanut gallery.  I've never had a car with the oil cooler and never looked into them.  Is it part of the oil change process to drain the cooler?  If so, then I can see adding the additional for the cooler.  But on a normal oil change on a car with an oil cooler, if you can't drain the cooler, you are, 1: Leaving some quantity of old oil in it 2: won't need to add the additional oil.  Unless you have somehow drained the cooler.  Or an I missing something?

Jay Sebring also cut Jim Morrisons hair. He had a 66 GT350 and Jim really liked it. He told his record company he wanted a Shelby Mustang and they bought the infamous "Blue Lady" 1967 Nightmist Blue GT500 for him. I do not think the Murders would have happened if Steve Mcqueen was in the house. He would have fought back for certain.

I believe he started carrying a gun and did so the rest of his life. 

And the Ghost Busters car in the background.