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So I read the link. Seemed a little "off"
Being here in the middle of it, I do kinda understand asking outsiders to hold back or coordinate with others.

My wife runs a church, she fed 200+ people yesterday.
Great stuff, but at the same time she is wasting a lot of energy and local resources managing folks who are well intentioned.
Examples:
-Dumptruck load of diapers and assorted supplies show up, delivered and everyone left. The local volunteers are on bikes because their cars are totaled. No way to distribute. Will likely end up in a dumpster after the first rain.
-someone towed a portable shower unit that needs management, electricity and water. None is available, probably best thing is to park it somewhere and forget about it... Meanwhile my wife is out at 7:30 coordinating that mess.

Appreciated, but honestly please remember the folks volunteering to deal with this often don't have water or power at home, they have their own drama they are trying to manage.
In one case a work crew showed up, but they all need to be housed and fed by people who have no housing or food...
So guess I'm saying it's complicated.

For folks out in the country, it's gonna be awhile, maybe a month before they get power and water, and now the prospect of Milton and the already overworked lineman and other folks.  Daunting situation for sure.

The most useful folks show up with a tent and a chain saw.  Just bodies available to do whatever, we will be hosting 3 dudes tomorrow for that. But still logistics, getting it set up for them to do the best work takes time and energy.

Yes, south Georgia (where I live) was rocked pretty hard.
We are mostly fine now, the focus on NC/TN flood stuff is way more critical at this time.

Here... the details of his carb as delivered to me.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1hxFn4i5HmgFKxgv/?mibextid=WC7FNe

The only real negative about the thread is no back to back testing.

600 double pumper vs 715 3259-1

Out of the box, I would typically think a 600 makes for easier running, the 715 with effort to dial in will end up being the top performer.

Of note too:
The carb he sent me was actually super freakin cool.
It was an original 3259-1 but it had zamac welded like I've never seen before. The effort put into making the carb a double pumper with staging linkage was pretty cool.
As delivered to me, it was in VS form, but the secondary pump nozzle boss and the boss for the linkage was still present. It was clearly modified after 1970 as it used a first issue double pumper baseplate (before I got it)

I'd have bought the carb from him just to convert it back to race form.

Drew

Sure but they are still hosted on fb, I don't have the time or energy to put them on you tube ir even my own afscarbs webpage

Here is me describing the ones I recently made.
Had like 250ish sets made.

https://www.facebook.com/AirFuelSParkTech/videos/293053707146788/

Here is one explaining new vs old parts and how to address the issues of them

https://www.facebook.com/AirFuelSParkTech/videos/684225393423782/

Throttle pin heights, also shows the different ones I make and how to install them

https://www.facebook.com/AirFuelSParkTech/videos/405586851015635/

And talking about low riser and medium riser stuff

https://www.facebook.com/AirFuelSParkTech/videos/1051529845375353/


I should really just make a post here linking a lot of my useful videos.

Or I should take a day off and upload them all to my webpage

Anyway, hope these are helpful and don't come across as spam or anything like that.

Drew

Fuel log is not mine.
Linkage is.

I have a dozen videos on how to set up linkage. Not sure why it is so difficult honestly.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/7kFnZYFAhHGS8Ah9/?mibextid=WC7FNe

I finally had a larger batch of parts made.
Got it all plated, ready to roll.

Afscarbs.com

Not a fan of the Daytona Needle and Seat at all. I typically toss them in the trash.


To OP,
I did not restore that. Looks like Mr Bunetic's work.
Here is a video where I describe how the bowls function:
https://www.facebook.com/AirFuelSParkTech/videos/520926569900660/

I sell all the parts I use individually or in kits of varying levels.  My afscarbs page also has a 6 hour video course showing me do a full tear down, blue printing, assembly, and testing of a lemans bowl carb.

Drew

Weird. I agree with Doug in regards to etoh.

The one thing I will make mention, the sticky white residue must be from something else.
My reason for thinking such:
I get carbs from all over the country. Certain areas seem prone to the residue that holds needles closed. Many areas (my own included) do not have that issue.

Etoh has become an easy thing to blame when folks don't truly know what the real problem is.


As far as 50% of all PV being bad?
I have not encountered that at all, I would suggest making sure your tester isn't the culprit. (Handheld vac pumps can often randomly bleed off)
I will say that probably more than 50% open at a different than rated point.

I'd like to have the carb rebuilt/restored

Apples and oranges Rebuilt = make it work. Restored = make it original. Vastly different costs with the same outcome.

Air Fuel Spark Prices
-4v Rebuild  $450
-4v Restoration $950

My personal favorite is to do halfway restored for survivors.
Just replate the hardware, and carefully clean the castings.

Drew, what do you think of this 735 carb? It runs great now for 2 years  and no adjustments from being built. Carb was test run after rebuild. I want your honest opinion on it. Thanks. Gary

If it runs great, you are happy with the looks, that is good enough for me.
If it is for a concours car, Bob makes some mentions that have merit.
Often "restorers" don't actually do any of the plating or chromate work. As such it is often done very uniformly in one color. This is a large part of why I learned to do plating before I started taking on customer work.  Doing everything inhouse allows for me to nitpick my work.
Other than that, I prefer to not pick apart someone else's work publicly.

I'd like to have the carb rebuilt/restored

Apples and oranges Rebuilt = make it work. Restored = make it original. Vastly different costs with the same outcome.

Air Fuel Spark Prices
-4v Rebuild  $450
-4v Restoration $950

My personal favorite is to do halfway restored for survivors.
Just replate the hardware, and carefully clean the castings.

I sent my to Holley and it came back very nice.Looks like new.

When I last spoke to the Holley guy who came to my shop, they told me they don't do that work anymore. They were asking me if I'd do it.

My view is to use someone local if available. Nothing can beat being able to bring the car to a guy's shop for a minor issue.
If no one is local I'm always happy to do the work.

If you have a stock unchanged 3259-1 it can idle with mix screws in due to massive idle feed. But it shouldn't run well.

Drew, are you saying all 3259-1 with the primary metering block #4756 came with the larger IFR?

I have an unmodified 3259-1 (Nov 66) that will idle well but idle screws only 3/4 turns out. 

Will changing to smaller IFR make for a cleaner (leaner) idle?

Yeah so about this....
Idle itself isn't a huge deal. As you mentioned, to a large extent you can control with mixture screws.
The issue is the transition to the mains.
Basically you cannot control low throttle fuel. Typically running fat isn't a huge issue. But yes you can clean it up and tinker with it via idle restriction.

What about the float bowls?  Not sure if that has anything to do with your issue but the float bowls should be at a level where just a little bit of gas leaks out of the hole once the screw is removed and the car is nudged to rock side to side.

No sight holes on the 3259 carb bowls unless you make them yourself.

Yes, true, but aren't there screws that can be removed and the car body nudged to see if gasoline comes out of the holes to indicate the level is up or alternatively if it pours out then the level is too high?  That is what I have on on my Holley 650 double pumper.  Otherwise how are the float bowls checked for proper level?  Or maybe the 715 doesn't need it?  Curious.

Dethsled, lemans bowl fuel level is set dry. If you want to check it while running, there are ways.

A vacuum gauge hooked to any full time port can give you an idea of how the carb is seeing the engine.