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They're billet 17X7 one-off to replicate the 1967 hubcaps. They are not the legendary-Drake wheels Illustrated. They're 3K a set.

Bill at Mansfield Mustang is a great help and source on FE components. 

Well, who says cats don't like Shelbys. I caught him red-handed trying to steal my car!

I would be glad to post pictures, Bob.

Bob, not to impugn on your knowledge, but unless Max has changed fasteners for the intake in the last 14 years they were EXACTLY what came off my engine. I know he is running out of some sources, so that may be true currently.

When they first came out they did have bolts with the correct markings although slightly different in appearance. That was 25 plus years ago. In your case I suppose it has a lot to do with what mfg marks were on the bolts you took off your intake and what you got from AMK. I have seen AMK intake bolts a grade 5 with no other mark . I have seen some with a grade 5 marking and a P in the middle . I have seen others that I didn't commit to memory because they were non original markings . Needless to say but I will, yes they have changed to various versions within the last 14 years. AMK bolt supply and consequently mfg marks on the bolts  have been slowly changing to more generic bolts for years. Don't get me wrong I think AMK is a boon to car restoration but it is prudent to be aware of the changes.

Bob, it's why I stated it as I did. I assumed there had been some change since I purchased my kits. The only issue I had heard of is the bolts being shorter in the new sets.

I stayed with a factory color offered too. It makes sense because of what it is.  It's not a restomod because of a wheel change, which are also factory style 10 spoke rims in 17. It makes sense because of what the car is.  Many of us DRIVE our cars. I do at least twice a week when I'm home. 
There are a couple day two modifications, either they are for power or safety.

Roller spring perches:

https://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/

Mike, I am running the roller perches too. The lowered car with the Arning drop should have them.

Bob, not to impugn on your knowledge, but unless Max has changed fasteners for the intake in the last 14 years they were EXACTLY what came off my engine. I know he is running out of some sources, so that may be true currently.

Yes, Kent. It matched what came off my car.

For the inner bolts use ARP

Everything internally is ARP on my car, including the cam gear bolt. I even run ARP head bolts and rocker shaft bolts. Don't run studs on an FE in a mustang/shelby. You won't get the heads off.

Paint your car Blue.  Don't go with Slime Green, you'll always regret it.

QSS

My sentiments exactly.  However, I am trying not to stir the pot too much. The old people get upset if they miss their 1630 dinner hour at Denny's.  They have to pay full price when they're late. 

Just to clarify, the "double-nut" method I refer to in post #15 above concerns installing the studs.
> remove the two stock intake manifold bolts that attach the fuel log
> install two studs in their place and finger tighten
> spin a not onto the stud
> spin a second nut onto the stud and with a wrench, tighten top nut clockwise and the lower counter-clockwise so that they "lock" against each other.
> with the nuts "locked," you should be able to exert enough force on the top nut to tighten the stud in place in the head. This is to keep it from backing out over time.
> remove the nuts and install the spacer, fuel log, spacer and nut as recommended

I assume you may have bought some of the studded intake bolts that were used for the cars with shaker air cleaners.  If you isolated the studs with the phenolic washers on both sides it would be the same situation as the factory longer intake bolts with the wahers.

Bob, the tab elimination and getting the hot heater hoses off would be simple. You can find a repo fuel log for about 50.00.  Summit has spacers if that's your choice of routes. I did find the Phenolic spacers held up to the 32 Lbs torque spec fine.

Yes, AMK offers a kit specific to the 1967 Shelby 428 and it is different than the other FE cars.. The intake is absolutely Shelby specific for 1967 as well as the carburetor studs and nuts, valve cover bolts, basket cover in the back that aren't on standard FE cars.

Heater Hoses - It seems like a common routing for the heater hoses is to have them run right alongside or right over the top of the fuel log. I have tied the heater hoses to the Export Brace with black zip ties to lift the hoses up away from the fuel log as much as possible.

A solution on the spacers between the fuel log and the intake -- I removed the two intake manifold bolts that secure the fuel log and installed studs. I tightened the studs using the "double nut" method.  I then installed a spacer, the fuel log and a nut to secure. As Bob pointed out, if you try longer intake manifold bolts, they do not clear the intake manifold where the carbs sit and will not install.

Another step that is admittedly drastic is to install a louvered hood. I have no scientific data, but seems those louvers would really help get hot air out of the engine compartment.

The louvered hood would be ideal. I presumed the hood scoop would help with keeping the heat out from under the hood. There seems to be cavitation at the firewall.
The double nut method would still allow heat transfer to the fuel log.  I used the spacer between the ear of the fuel log and intake and on the top between the bolt and washer and the ear of the log. The bolts will also transfer heat if not insulated from the log.
I started off with the simple changes and kept looking for other ways to "beat the heat".  I have no hard-start issues anymore or percolation.
I was just posting the newest addition to combat vapor lock.  The pump insulator.
An insulated fuel supply and carburetors goes a long way in the battle.