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Congratulations 427hunter (your new avatar could now read in theory as 289finder) on reacquiring the original engine block for your Shelby.  The fact that it stayed in existence is a small miracle in itself.  It was meant to be as part of your life journey. 

Well it found me, it appears my life's journey is to spend money...... ha

Sounds like a good plan. Did it come with anything at all?

Cheers

I h

Congrats! What's the plan from
Here?

The block is going to a machine shop in Vegas and we shall see what it needs. I have a complete correct hipo 289 in my car now so once the short block is done I am going to just transfer the top end over.

It was pointed out to me that I should not show the block date and assembly date so I cropped the photo - thanks for the info..

Would not worry about assembly date or casting date but its up to you. BTW you didn't show the assembly date that I saw - only the machining date for the block that can't be seen once the engine is assembled

Thanks for the info - btw that date is the same at the date on the pad in front of the head. Except on the oil pan lip it looks like it ends with a "o" and on the pad in front of the head that date ends with a "w" any idea what those letters behinds the dates mean or what the zero in front of the C5AE means?

It was pointed out to me that I should not show the block date and assembly date so I cropped the photo - thanks for the info..

Well I figured I would give an update, I now have the block, anyone know what the 0 before the C5AE stands for ? The block is filthy but standard.

427 Hunter, did you share how the seller of the block and you came together?

I mean, for all he knew it was a K-code block only. Was he the former owner of your car? That would help explain how he knew it belonged to your car.

Just curious on the back story.

I really don't want to get into it because it will only make me angry, listing my  Shelby number (853) in my profile was enough for the middle man to find me. 

If the car wasn't so special, then ignoring the offer wouldn't matter so much.  Sometimes it is a much larger thing that drives the motivation for a big asking price, and I would pin some of it on the macroeconomics of an enormously mismanaged economy that we have endured for a specified period of time.  Men may be feathering their nests for a possible upcoming devastating blow in the not-so-distant future.

My rudimentary understanding is that the 289 engine can only be bored .030 once and then no more due to the thin wall construction, no?

  Better to go .30 then sleeve it.  I hope I am able to ball hone it, polish the crank and ring and bearing it - wishful thinking I know.....

Once ya go .30 thats the end of the block. I'd sleeve it an keep it standard bore. Sleeving has come a long way. If the standard bore is loose you can cure it with coatings. We race a V6 Buick Turbo. 8 sec @ 150+. Buick blocks are getting harder to get so we try an keep the block survivable for more rebuilds.
.... What if ya did go .30 an had an engine fail ? Shit happeneds ... If ya need an info on coatings message me. 

Appreciate it, I am picking it up this weekend so when I get it home I will know more - I hope I can leave it standard and ball hone it, we shall see.

Question:  He has the short block but do you have all the correct items that were originally on it (intake, carb, dizzy, timing cover, etc.)?

Yes, I alread have a correct hipo 289 in the car - that's why I was reluctant to buy the block.

If the car wasn't so special, then ignoring the offer wouldn't matter so much.  Sometimes it is a much larger thing that drives the motivation for a big asking price, and I would pin some of it on the macroeconomics of an enormously mismanaged economy that we have endured for a specified period of time.  Men may be feathering their nests for a possible upcoming devastating blow in the not-so-distant future.

As an addendum, couldn't the engine be sleeved as part of a rebuild as opposed to boring it out?  My rudimentary understanding is that the 289 engine can only be bored .030 once and then no more due to the thin wall construction, no?

I won't know what I have to do till I tear it apart, supposedly it's standard and spun a bearing, we shall see.  Better to go .30 then sleeve it.  I hope I am able to ball hone it, polish the crank and ring and bearing it - wishful thinking I know.....

I would assume you're the only person willing to pay the ransom.  You have the car it belongs in and no one else.  If you say "not interested" what could this person realize on a sale?  Was the asking price established  prior to you becoming an interested party?  Certainly the block may only worth $8K to the current caretaker of your car (you).  This seller seems to be an opportunist and not an enthusiast of all things Shelby American. Sad circumstances you have to deal with such greed. Fair and reasonable would be a swap for your motor + small premium.

I would assume you're the only person willing to pay the ransom.  You have the car it belongs in and no one else.  If you say "not interested" what could this person realize on a sale?  Was the asking price established  prior to you becoming an interested party?  Certainly the block may only worth $8K to the current caretaker of your car (you).  This seller seems to be an opportunist and not an enthusiast of all things Shelby American. Sad circumstances you have to deal with such greed. Fair and reasonable would be a swap for your motor + small premium. 

Good luck with Mr Potter

Good luck with Mr Potter

Yes that's what's upsets me - but on the bright side SFM6S853 will now be complete again.

Perhaps you should consider this from another perspective - that is, not the intrinsic value of the short block but rather its enhancement value to your car. I have sold hundreds of Shelbys over the past 45+ years, so this analysis is based on actual experience.

Let's assume you presently have an unrestored driver quality GT350H with a non matching engine. A conservative market price may be in the range of $125,000. My experience is that a correct but non matching number engine historically lowers the value by 15-20%. So with a matching engine, your car becomes worth between $146 - $156,000. Let's say $150,000.

So for a cost of $8000 plus rebuild / installation you have a likely gain of $25,000 in value.

Another factor is, that at current price levels, many buyers will refuse to consider a non original engined example, as they are chasing the "investment value". So acquiring this short block will bring them back as potential purchasers whenever you decide to sell, thereby widening your range of buyers.

All good points - my car is not a Hertz car but I understand what you are saying - I was just hung up on the ransom part but I have decided to go get it.

So...
A previous owner has the engine to your 66 GT 350 and wants $8000 for it?

Buy it.

Just my .02...

I am stewing on it Bret - also it's just the short block.

I appreciate the input, I am going to stew on it for a while - if my car didn't already have a hipo 289 in it this would be a lot easier decision.

The general consensus appears to be, get it for bragging rights.
 

I appreciate the response, It's not the money as much as the fact that it feels like it's a ransom.

Anyone have any experience with what a numbers engine does to increase the value over the non numbers over the counter hipo that is in the car now?

Looking for some opinions - I located my original numbers matching block, What value would members here think that would add to the car? He is asking more than 7 times a 289 block value and it would need to be rebuilt.