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Just wait until some day when you're cruising around 50 mph and the locker locks. You'll think you snapped an axle but you didn't.

Another casting difference is the distance between the red lines. HiPo carbs have less material to prevent interference with choke hardware.  Some fakes cut it back and some don't. Either would still have witness marks from being filled.

Dave,

I have a set I got from Brant a few years ago that I didn't use. Sent you a pm

Steve-

Previous thread with approximate date they started showing up on 66 cars and who made some spares https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=14478.msg119138#msg119138

Those are not HiPo rods and someone went through the trouble of doing a poor polish job on the rear crank journal and adding a fake Brinnell hardness mark among other things. Original cranks were hardness tested by inspecting the grain structure of the iron with a special optical tool. This explains the idea of what they were looking at in the polished area https://old.foundrygate.com/upload/artigos/Nodule%20Count%20-%20Why%20and%20How!.pdf

327 Corvettes were using that design in the mid 60's. The belief is that it helped balance airflow https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/can-a-chevy-guru-explain-this-intake.993035/

Always enjoyed reading Randy's posts here and the occasional PM's we had on engine stuff. He was truly a gentleman and a scholar.

RIP Randy

Are you positive it's the seal? The 2 large oil pan bolts at the rear are through holes and not blind holes like the rest. If not sealed properly they can be the source of an oil leak that looks like a rear main leak.

This has pictures https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=7697.0

It could be sending unit or thermostat, but what i am wondering is I purchased a laser temperature gun when the engine is fully warmed up
where should I really point it to get an accurate measurement? .

     Establish the relativity of the gauge reading by pulling the sending unit out of where it is installed (intake, behind the thermostat?  ) and drop it in a pot of boiling water; the gauge will provide the observation of what 212° +/- will look like.   

     As far a the infrared temp-guns, these are not terribly accurate, particularly as their implied values are sensitive to the reflective nature of the surface being targeted.   

     Scott.

Adding to this, you want to check the resistance as the temperature increases. I had a bad sender that read 11 ohms at 172 degrees in a pot of water on the stove. (reading high temp on gauge), The new one I bought showed 18.5 at the same temp and was right on the money on the gauge and went to around 35 ohms at 180 degrees. Reading through an old email discussion I had with Jim Cowles about this, I bought a Duralast version of the smaller 65 sender - TU22 part number that was manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics. At the time, they also had the engineering specs online showing the expected resistance at temp. The engineering drawing is no longer online that I can see but this is their sender and I would buy it again if needed https://wellsve.com/parts-search/?partNumber=TU22 Autozone website shows their TU22 is now made by Rostra Powertrain Controls and I have no idea if it's accurate or not.

As far as the accuracy of your IR thermometer, boil some water, it will be 212 degrees. Your IR  may be a few degrees high or low but shouldn't be off much. The best place to measure the coolant temp is with the cap off the radiator but only do this after letting the car warm up WITHOUT the radiator cap on. Once you know the actual coolant temp coming into the radiator, you can get the temp of the upper and lower hoses to get an idea of the temp drop after going through the radiator and factor in any difference for the rubber insulating the actual temp. I recall around a 20 degree drop after going through the radiator.

According to Jim, even the NOS sending units were not accurate so the best bet is checking the resistance of whatever you use to know what you're working with.

Steve -

Couple thoughts,

1. Pull one of the wires off the gauge and put an ammeter into the circuit. If the ammeter jumps around, your gauge is likely fine. I forget if it's relevant to check both sides of the gauge but it's easy enough for a sanity check. See https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/experiments/chpt-2/ammeter-usage/

2. I believe it's a yellow and red wire connected to the gauge. Both come through the harness connected at the firewall. The metal on the connectors has been known to oxidize over time causing a poor connection so check those also.

I bought rear replacement springs from Virginia Mustang and they were way too soft. I ended up putting the originals back in the car.
Dave

I did mine about 8 years ago and at the time VA was sourcing them from John R Spring http://www.johnrspring.com/leafsprings.html

At the time, JR Spring told me they were the 42-437 spec (page 32) intended for a heavier 67/68 http://springresearch.org/pdf/volume_17.pdf

Maybe something changed if you did yours at a different time?

Virginia Mustang has the springs that look the same. They are built to a 67 spec to be generic for many cars. For a 66, plan to have a spring shop de-arch them 3/4 - 1" https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=7091.15

I'll leave this tip for anyone considering taking a drive to the salt flats. Last summer they cancelled speed week due to rain. The entrance into Bonneville Salt Flats International Raceway was still flooded but there is a truck stop on I80 West just before the exit. There is an entrance ramp at the truck stop and the salt elevation is a little higher and was dry. There is no speed limit and I learned that 100+ MPH speeds kick up a lot of salt under the car. The rental was a Chevy so I didn't worry about it

It depends on the damage and what you mean by resurfaced. I've seen cranks with small grooves from a spun bearing spray welded and ground but it really depends on how bad the damage is.