Messages

Wow! Have always been under the impression, from internet research, that all 67 GT350s got the RUG N or N1. Have been browsing the forums for at least 10 years and have heard never heard of the HEH toploader in 67s, only Ns and N1s. Is there any definite earliest date of introduction? What would the judge accept or decline? Thanks for all the responses.

Brian

Looking for 67 Close ratio toploader transmission correct for a GT350, Mar 67 build date. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

Brian

#1512 Square. Mar 22 Ford build.

Brian

Conversion charts show the stock 67 Shelby tire size of E70-15 to convert to 205-70R15. The question is if, the next size up "back in the day" which would have most likely been an F70-15, which converts to a 215-70R15, would cause any FRONT fender rubbing issues. I know that many (non-concours) are running 60 series tires but I prefer the look of the 70 series. Dave, do you have any pics of your tire combo that you could share? Thanks

Brian

Tire time for my 67. I am wanting to stay with a 70 series tire. From what I can find on the internet, the original E70-15s equate to a modern 205-70r/15. Am wondering if an increase to an F70-15 (215-70r/15) or be a safe choice as far as not having any tire rubbing concerns. Have tried searching the web but not finding much info from anyone running this size. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Brian

Just finished installing the sheathing from a Holley 45-228 choke cable. It has a sheathing made from round wire whereas the repop uses a square type of wire. Taped a piece of wire to the end of the repop and pulled the cable back out. A little WD40 on the rubber covering makes it go through the firewall grommet easier. Used the repop sheath as a guide to cut the Holley piece to the proper length, then installed the bracket and rubber covering. Taped the Holley sheath to the piece of wire and used it to help guide it around all the stuff behind the dash, and back through the firewall. Used the repop knob and wire. Seems to work properly. Only downside is the knob and shaft are just a little loose and the "C" is not properly oriented. The shaft that the repop knob attaches to has a D-shaped cross section which keeps the "C" properly clocked. Might try re-adjusting it tomorrow as it's held on with a set screw. Maybe a dab pf adhesive too. This seems like it should work. Maybe this will help others with their cables.

Brian     

Thanks Jeff and Kurt. Time to put on my MacGyver hat. Score another one for the repoppers!

Brian

GT350. Trying to adjust my reproduction choke cable and can only get it to stop properly in one direction or the other. There seems to be a lot of slack or slop inside the spiral sheathing. The opening, or inside diameter of the spiral wrap looks to be at least twice the diameter of the wire that passes through it. If I adjust it with the choke plate open, knob pushed in, when I pull it out the choke plate closes but the knob keeps coming out, to the point of coming out of the bracket. If I adjust it with the choke plate closed, knob out, when I push it in the knob stops against the bracket but the choke plate is not open all the way. If I pull on the choke wire there's enough slack inside the spiral wrap to let the choke plate close completely. Looking at the older aftermarket choke cable that worked fine, I see that the wire is snug to the spiral wrap. With the repop, I see the cable moving around quite a bit when pulling or pushing on the knob. Seems I might need to rig some kind of spring to help pull the choke plate open all the way. Am I missing something simple here or .....? As always, thanks for any help.

Brian

Got my repop B302 z-bar from slipperyjohn and happy to report all went smoothly. Fits well in a 67 GT350. Brian

67 GT350. What's the go to replacement for transfer tube o-rings on the 715 carb? The square cut style. Local speed shop was no help. I see Holley part number 108-97 looks like it could be the answer, but figured I would check here where all the 715 owners hang out. The rebuild kit I got does not have them. FYI, if you buy a rebuild kit, make sure it has 2 of the new style "daytona style" seat assemblies. Mine only had one, but a call to Daytona Parts Company had one in the mail Wednesday afternoon and at my house Saturday. Good service.  Thanks.

Brian

+1 on the Blue Dots. If it's true that "time is money", then these are money well spent.

Brian

Posted the same question on CMF so I'll cover my options here too. 67 GT350. 4spd. Using a RAM 157 tooth flywheel, model 1527, stock replacement type as sold by NPD. Ring gear is stepped back 3/8" on the flywheel. Front of ring gear is 11/16" back from the starter mounting surface (block plate). I currently have an older NAPA rebuilt starter that has barely been used. When I measure from the mounting surface of the starter to the edge of the drive gear it's appears to be the same 11/16", maybe a few thousandths less. To me that seems extremely close. Is there a spec for this clearance? Any input welcome. Thanks.

Brian

Does anyone have a picture for the P/S hoses where they run from the cooler back to the pump and back to the junction point at the hose bracket? Are they bundled or tied together? Do they just hang or is there some sort of retainer holding them to the apron? Thanks.

Brian

Anyone know if the B302 z-bars are being reproduced anywhere. A few of the vendors who show them say "out of stock" and  few email responses from them say discontinued, no supplier. There is one repop on e-bay, seller is "slipperyjohn" who says the one he has was made by a local tool shop. Trying to find out if he had a batch made or this is a one off. Has anyone dealt with this seller before? FYI I'm looking to use it in a 67 GT350. Thanks. Brian

Greenville area. Go Clemson!! Thanks for the advice guys.

Brian