Messages

Peter, to get to the harness you speak of, remove the upper or lower panels?

Thanks Peter, I've got the light assy out and no power at the connectors. Problem has to be somewhere upstream, but don't know where the lead for that assy breaks out of the harness.

Not getting power to this lamp assy, but can confirm power at the connection near the door jamb. Anyone have any experience in accessing this harness after it passes thru the rocker? Or will it require removal of both upper and lower rear panels? All other courtesy lights work fine, including including license plate and trunk lid.

If you are concerned about matching the date code, 7G is the date code (7=1967, G=July).  Check the other pieces of glass and use that as a range.  Coupe, convertible and fastback are all different.

. KR, are there different Carlite codes identifying whether it's for a FB or Vert?

Thank you gentlemen!

My drivers glass is badly scratched and I'm starting the search for a replacement. Are there any specific codes on the glass that would identify tinted versus non-tinted? I've attached a picture of the Carlite labeling on my scratched glass. Assuming it is original, would it be safe to say finding a replacement with that exact labeling would be correct?  Or would other codes also be correct? Originally a CA AC/4Sp car, February build

Any folks in this group that are in this area and will be attending the events week after next?  Just moved to this area a month ago and looking for other Shelby and classic Stang obsessionists to get together with. Have seen next to nothing classic-wise at the few events that I've done recently.

I dealt with a very slow hot cranking 428PI in my GT500 for a couple of years. Even bought a heat shield for the starter, and it didn't help.  It wasn't until I had to replace the battery (completely dead) that the problem disappeared.  Turns out that I had a bad cell in the battery, and once the engine got hot, it would only slowly crank.  Once I had a brand new battery in it, problem has never happened again, and I even removed the heat shield

gpm6367,  There are some still out there...  I went to look at one (non 4sp tho) just a couple of months ago that was up for auction locally.  27K original miles, but had been parked for 40 years uncovered under a carport.  Interior was in great shape, but exterior had surface rust (nothing eaten thru tho) just about all over.  Engine in need of at least valve seals, as when they started it up, lots of blue smoke initially.  Never heard anything about the results of the auction, but just last week I ran into the guy who ran the auction at a local cars and coffee.  He told me that he had 3 bids of over $100K, with the last one being $110k, and the owner turned it down (owner is the son of the original owner).  Was in shock...  Car would need at least $50k worth of work just to make it a nice driver.  They are still out there tho...

Do you happen to have a copy or original buildsheet to compare it

H=J, I do not.. build sheet was long gone by the time I got the car in 1999...

Trying to decipher why my buck tag and Marti report don't match as far as the date bucked go... My buck tag shows 14B, but Marti says my car was bucked on 12 Feb 68.  Does anyone else have a discrepancy like this?  Any ideas on the difference?
Not that it really makes a whole lot of Hoo Doo, but the more I learn about these cars the more ravenous my thirst for info on these cars becomes.  Have had this car now for about 22 years, but never noticed this discrepancy previously.  Thank goodness we have folks like Peter, Tim, Royce and Bob G (and others in this group) around to quench that thirst!

Thanks Bob!  Appreciate the feedback.  Your timing is perfect as well, as I'm putting the hoses back on later today.  I'll give them a coat of that right now...

Is your tilt away mechanism grounded? (bolted to under dash)

RedPony, I completely agree with Tim on this.  I fought a draining battery issue for years.  Everytime I would connect the battery, I would get a spark and hear an odd sound from the firewall area for just a second or two.  Could never figure out what or where that sound was coming from.  One day, while up under my dash looking into something else, I had a friend connect the battery.  Right in front of my eyes I saw the problem.  My mounting hardware for my fog light switch was contacting the tiltaway actuator, causing the sound I was hearing. Fixed the mounting hardware issue and I've not had a battery issue ever since and I keep it hooked up 24/7/365.

Was rummaging thru some boxes of stuff that came with my car when I got it in 1999.  Ran across the original console that was in my car when I got it.  PO had hacked off the whole front half of the console, never to be seen again.  I've had my reproduction console (Branda) installed for many years, but when comparing the construction of the two, the original one appears to be much sturdier construction.  The original lid appears to be in pretty good shape, albeit with the stitching all worn away.  Might just clean this one up and hang it on the wall of the garage for decoration...

Charles, thanks for the insight... I'll have to keep an eye on them once they are back installed to see if any rust appears.  They appeared to be galvanized originally.