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Thanks for the replies...
I have what I need to make sure it's right and matches my block.

Cheers,

My 69 GT500 has been running with a (1968 427 s.o) since about 1970.  My drag pack car was raced and blew the 428 so the PO went back to Gotham Ford and got a replacement 427 to continue racing.

I have my original 428 SCJ block, crank, rods, and most pistons, balancer, etc... but 2 cylinders need sleeved due to the bottom of cylinder wall being chipped.  The original heads, carb, and exhaust manifolds from my 428 SCJ were transferred over the the 427 and the PO went with an aftermarket performance Edelbrock (single four barrel intake) so it would work with the fresh air hood.

With plans to put my original engine back together again, I have an opportunity to buy a 428 intake from a good friend and would like to know how to identify it and make sure it is correct for my car.  Aside from the casting number, are there other identifiers such as date, etc.. that would make it right / wrong ?  What should I be looking for?

Build date on my car is Feb 5, 1969.

This is one of the major missing parts to put my 428 SCJ back together.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

I've been building cars for years and feel stupid for asking a question about these new shocks are supposed to work, but swallowing my pride, here it goes:

I just bought a new set of shocks for my 1969 GT500 and I elected to buy the KONI: 8250 1030.
They are the orange shocks sold by CJPP and are a correct fit for me car (wrong color but I painted them dark blue).

I always remember new shocks coming in a box with a strap holding them compressed for easier installation, and you can cut the strap during the install.  These new orange Koni shocks came in a new box but were not compressed and even more strange, when I manually compress them, they really don't just snap back into place like I would expect.

Question: Is this normal ?
It takes quite a bit of force to compress them or pull them apart, but they do not seem to have a memory or automatically rebound once they are compressed.

I bought a full set (front and rear) but have not installed them yet.

Please advise.

Thanks


Mike

Heres some information that be useful

https://anghelrestorations.com/mustang-factoids/

Excellent reference, Thank you.

.......Just as a note. Not everyone would describe your finished product as a "matching" numbers engine since it will lack the VIN as stamped originally at Dearborn

Thank You for the detailed list, that's what I was looking for.
Regarding the engine; are you saying that even if I pull this replacement 427 out and have my VIN matching 428 scj block sleeved and rebuilt, it will not be considered # match ?

I appreciate the detail in your list. 
Thanks Again,

They are all replacements

Good info,
That makes my decision even easier.

Thank You

We should probably clarify some terms

Concours restorations are not for survivors

Concours restoration is the process or art of finely detailing the car to factory specifications  and make it historically correct. Presumably for national show competition , but not always

In order to accomplish that you can not just clean up a few parts.

Once the engine has been changed to a different displacement there is no opportunity for concours

Thank You both very much for the reply.
This thread probably needs to be moved to the 1969 GT350/GT500 board.

My objective is to keep most aspects of this car as unchanged and original as possible, only cleaning, repainting and reinstalling what is necessary to keep it as mechanically sound as possible.  Driving a true survivor may be great for shows, but it is not that much fun in the Texas summer at highway speeds when everything is coming apart and needing replacement.

My # matching 428 SCJ block and internal rotating assembly will remain on my bench until I get it in a machine shop for a full rebuild.  I will keep this 427 beast in my car until I start the full rotisserie restoration which will not happen until next year sometime.
I'm finishing up the last month of a rotisserie Resto on my 69.5 Superbee 440+6 and this Shelby drives and looks too good to disassemble right now.

The goal is to replace all of the ugly, visually obvious, incorrect things under the hood such as the rusted hose clamps, ugly wiring, clean up the alternator and PS pump, brackets, etc... replace the 1/2" carb spacer with a 1" spacer for better heat dissipation, etc...

I prefer to not use any aftermarket replacement parts, keeping everything original, just remove the surface rust and oil grime and put back on.

My white interior is also original and I just bought new seat foam and will reuse the center section of the seat covers and have the side bolsters replaced as close as possible.

I was just hoping that, since most of my experience is with Mopars, some Shelby experts out there could lead me in the right direction under the hood with a few suggestions as to what they see may already be wrong and need correcting.

Thanks again,

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I'm starting the process of detailing the engine bay of my survivor 69 GT500.
I see tons of issues that need cleaning / tidying up, and hose fasteners/clamps that need replaced, etc.. but I would like to post several photos of my engine bay and solicit feedback as to what others see.

I'm interested in all feedback such improvement suggestions, correctness or incorrectness of parts, positive or negative comments, etc...

Background info: 
This is a drag pack car.
The engine in the cradle is a 427 s.o. (1968), purchased over the counter at Gotham Ford in 69.
--> Original engine was raced and damaged. The correct #'s matching 428 scj block is on my shop table and needs a sleeve. 
Bottom edge of cylinder wall is damaged but easily repairable.
The heads, carb, dist, exhaust manifolds are from the original 428.
The early 427 edelbrock intake is obviously not original and was installed as a performance upgrade, but the single 4bbl 427 intake allows for the original fresh air breather to be used with a good seal.

My objective is to remove the individual components, hoses, brackets, alternator, distributor, coil, etc.. and clean them up and reinstall.

--> I need to increase the 1/2" carb spacer to a larger 1" spacer to reduce the heat transfer even more.

Oh.... And as you can see, I removed the hood hinge springs and am using a temporary prop rod to keep my hood straight.

Thanks for any/all feedback.

Mike

[Regarding correctness:]

Upon closer inspection and sanding off the crud to expose the stamped numbers, I found the following:

Front shocks are BLUE...Will get details soon.


Rear shocks:
White Gabriel Striders
Number: 45257  P1062

The tops/bottoms both spin pretty easy and I'm not sure if they are adjustable or how to adjust them.  They may be so worn out, they may no longer be operational..

Regarding correctness:
For my build date (2/5/69), these may not be the correct shocks.
Regardless, I ordered a set of Konis from CJPP and will enjoy those until I decide what I'll do with these Gabriels.

Question:
Only out of curiosity, do these look correct for my car or are they just a close replacement someone installed ? 

Thanks
Mike

Good and timely information.
I may just pay and have my original seats restored.  It's pretty much just the side bolsters that are coming apart and the center comfortweave inserts look pretty good. 

As long as I can color match pretty close, that may be better than going with a completely different material.

I have a decision to make....

Buy new (Mach 1) seat foams and have original seat covers (Side bolsters) restored with original center section...?