Messages

I had a mouse in the house we could not catch. I tried an electronic device that plugs into an outlet. That night the rodent committed suicide trying to get get out of the house via a toilet. Surprised me first thing in the morning but I never had a mouse problem after using that repellent.

Jim   

We do have a very skilled vintage Mustang/Ford mechanic in Santa Clara. Mitch at Mustang Fever (408-748-1337) at 611 Reed Street is one the best mechanics I have ever worked with. He has been helping me maintain my 1968 Cougar and 1968 GT350 for about the last 12 years. He is not a Shelby specialist and doesn't profess to be, so I make sure to supply any Shelby specific parts that are needed. He is amazing when it comes to trouble shooting issues. He has performed suspension, clutch, transmission, brake and electrical work for me. He is capable of doing pretty much anything but paint/ body. I know he works on anything from 6 cyl Mustangs to Boss 429. I have always been happy with his work and his pricing is fair. He is honest and will be straight with you.

Good luck,

Jim

If your hardware store does not have the inserts, they are readily available online. I used a kit from Time-Sert for 8-32. The kit is available on Amazon but it is a little pricey at about $75. The kit includes the appropriate drill, tap, installation tool and the inserts. Simple instructions and easy to do.

Jim

Shelbydoug-Can you post a photo of your rear spring setup?

Thanks, Jim

I had a similar problem on my 1968 GT350. The idle got very unstable when the engine got warmed up and it would die when I applied the brakes. Everything seemed fine on start up but the problem occurred as everything warmed up. I was sure it was a vacuum problem but could not find anything obvious. It drove me crazy for several months until I found the same problem and a possible resolution in a posting on the Vintage Mustang Forum. The problem turned out to be the intake manifold sealing. The intake had been off to replace lifters about 6 months earlier, and even though the intake had been carefully torqued when it was reinstalled, all of the bolts had loosened to about half the torque spec on the drivers side of the engine. I retorqued all of the bolts and the problem was resolved.

This is worth checking and easy to fix.

Good luck, Jim

Here is a recap of SAAC 43 the SAAC NW club did.  A lot of good pictures.

Thank you very much for the photos. I was pleasantly surprised to see the back end of my red/white 68 GT350 as I was driving into Sonoma Raceway. I had a great time and took a lot of photos. When I got home I discovered virtually all my photos were under the hood shots of other 68's.

Jim

Any results posted or announced for the Concours judging at SAAC 43? It looked like one GT350 and a GT 500KR convertible being judged.

Thanks, Jim

When I bought my 4-speed GT350 I was surprised to find 3.00 gears in the rear. The date code on the axle tag was consistent with the build date, so I left it alone. I spent a lot of time on the highway so the 3.00 wasn't bad. I was always a little unhappy with the performance on the street. After retirement I went ahead and installed 3.89 gears. I couldn't be happier. It is a completely different driving experience and just what I needed after having the car as a driver 14 years.i would never go back to the 3.00, but I did save them. If I really needed to do more highway driving I'd try something in the 3.50 range, but not the 3.00.

Good luck,

Jim

It should be the flasher near the ash tray. I can reach mine if I take the ashtray assembly out. Good luck.


Jim

Thank you. The only original assemblies I have seen looked almost monochromatic from age.

Jim

Did the entire hood pin bracket assembly ( bracket, Dzus wire, and steel rivets) come painted semi-gloss black as a complete unit or was just the bracket painted?

Thank you,

Jim

Thank you Pete. It looks like a previous owner sprayed something over that area- maybe to prevent rust?

Jim

Did A.O. Smith apply any paint over the area where the roll bar is welded to the body? My car has some strange paint over that area.

Thank you,

Jim

FYI- The problem turned out to be a failing dynamite stick. The stick was a repop that was about 10 years old. When the turn indicators were cold, there was no voltage on the red wire powering the outer bulb on the passenger side. If the passenger side turn signals were on for awhile(like when I was trying to troubleshoot the problem), the voltage on the red wire came back. Replacing the dynamite stick resolved the problem.

Jim

I have relatively new wiring and dynamite sticks (6 yrs old) and correct 323 flasher and the tail lights have been working great until recently. I am using the standard bulbs (no led). The left side works correctly in all modes- stop, running lights and sequential flashing. On the right side the stop and running light function work fine, but the turn signal sequential flashing is intermittent. When the bulbs are cold, the inner and middle lamp light but do not flash and the outer lamp does not light. I have repeatedly checked the ground and that looks good. If the rear lights have been on for awhile and the bulbs are warm, all three bulbs light and sequence nicely. I am guessing the warm bulb has a higher resistance and that factors into the operation. I also checked for voltage on that socket with the bulb removed and measured about 6 volts.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,
Jim