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Punta Gorda is close to me.

Mine is original so I've been told.  Mine is an early car.  #100

I run Earls Vapor Guard EFI rubber fuel lines on my carbureted Shelby.  The standard rubber fuel line allows fuel vapor to pass, and they will deteriorate from ethanol.  If you run a carb and fuel pump with gaskets designed for ethanol, and the vapor guard hose, you shouldn't have to worry about running E10 fuel.  I've been doing it for a while with no problems. 

FEATURES OF EARLS VAPOR GUARD HOSE:
Multi-layer rubber hose designed to withstand to the corrosive properties of modern fuels
Multi-fuel compatible: Approved for use with leaded and unleaded Gasoline, Diesel, Biodiesel, E-85, 100% Methanol, ETHANOL and gasohol fuels
A two foot section of Earl's Vapor Guard saves one gallon of gas each year as compared to traditional rubber hose from permeation alone.
Primary Barrier Liner – initial layer offers high resistance to heat and aggressive fuels
Vapor Guard Barrier – Thermoplastic layer provides superior fuel isolation significantly reducing vapors from escaping through the hose
Reinforcement braid-aramid material – (EFI hose only) is used to provide the higher pressure rating that is required with fuel injection
Exterior cover – provides extreme tolerance of heat and ozone
Choose from carburetor or higher pressure EFI hose
Hose available in 5/16" and 3/8" sizes

I post on the Facebook Shelby forums more often than this site because of the poor management of this issue.  I can't help but question if the club itself has similar mismanagement practices. When you have senior and knowledgeable forum members avoiding this site, the cause is already lost.

I stopped using marti plug wires because their resistance is really high measured on an ohm meter.  Taylor and msd wires measured much lower. 

Photos

 Photos

If the Green whire into the box (trunk) is showing full voltage, then the
problem could well be in the trunk box. BUT, if the taillight wire
(Green/Orn or Orn/Blu) is not powered when the brakes only are on for that
side, then the problem is in the switch area.

This information was plagiarized from an email I saved from 2009. 

Pictures would help determine value.  If the vin-stamped inner fender aprons are present and able to be repaired, that means it won't be a rebody and adds a good amount of value.  If all original vin tags are present, that adds more value.  Original paperwork adds value.  The body and mechanicals can be repaired during restoration. 

I patched my original and it's working now.  I don't need one anymore. 

I went electronic/LED many years ago when the sets got released and that is what I recommend. Brighter and no more failed boards(I've had a few over 30 years)

That was 2015 Gary.  I bought my LED kit within 2 weeks of you buying the kit from Vic.  I bought off his eBay site Barganspot. 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dmd=2&iconV2Request=true&_ssn=paulson_kim&store_name=barganspot&_oac=1&store_cat=7290380

Vic Yarberry at Cougars Unlimited might be able to.  He sells very good reproduction boards with the correct electrical connectors, which look original when installed inside the black case in the trunk.  I installed his LED system and circuit board. 

Vic stands behind his products.  I emailed him a month ago about some flickering LED tail lamp bulbs I bought from him and installed in 2015.  He sent me 4 LED bulbs for free and didn't even charge me for shipping.

http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/ts1promo.htm

The Carpenter repro is too long and caused needle shake.  I believe I need C9ZF-17260-C. My original is leaking due to burn marks.

Thanks Bob. I will try doing the removal of all the stain to the right of the chrome divider, and re-apply the clear to just that half.  I really don't want to get near the Cobra side with sanding or stain remover.  I appreciate the helpful suggestions.   

Thanks for the advice. I'm planning to just use a brush or foam brush and swab some wood stain on only the spots that are peeling.  I don't know if I should use a clear/transparent or a colored stain to match the surrounding wood color.  Also, should I use an oil-based stain?  I'm not shooting for perfection here, but I want it to look better than it does and not as noticeable.