Messages

Car built 12/5/67. What would be the appropriate date code on a a voltage regulator?

I rolled underneath the car and I felt the texture and it was smooth. When I take it back to the shop, I'll be able to take a picture.

Just curious on the front lower valence, below the bumper, is the backside of this part chopped fiberglass strands, or smooth?

Sorry - just saw this today and the car was up on a lift I will take a look - would it be a noticeable texture difference?

Just curious on the front lower valence, below the bumper, is the backside of this part chopped fiberglass strands, or smooth?

Chopped fiberglass strands or smooth are two different distinct textures.

Yikes. Thanks. On to plan B.

For those 68 Shelbys requiring a front license plate, what have you used to install the plate bracket without drilling holes. I purchased a bracket from Tony Branda supposed to hang underneath the bumper, but I'm not seeing any way to hang

Thanks all - leak got worse so letting the pros handle it.

Thanks for sharing. Good tips.

Early Dec 67 car. I cannot start car unless I gently fiddle plastic pin for cable that goes to vacuum motor that actuates tilt away option.

It was working fine until car sat for awhile due to weather.

My question - is there a way to permanently fix this? Cable adjustment? All original tilt way components seem intact.

Was trying to add a pic?

My 68 GT500 Holley carb developed small leak at bottom of secondary bowl area passenger side - surprise!  It drips right on top of intake where engineering part number is for about fifteen minutes after I turn off engine - about 1/2 oz. The car starts right up, idles smooth and engine strong but strong gas smell after shut off.

Carb was fully rebuilt by reputable shop few years ago but car sat awhile.

What is different? recently had carb tuned and transported from Texas to California. I found small screw sitting on the intake but I'm not seeing any screws missing. 

Wonder if it's simple fix.

I understand there are long screws that attach console to the floor and I have all those but what is missing are the screws that hold the actual lidded console/liner part? Is it the same type of long screws?

Yes, these are the decals which fit within/inside my existing chrome and black frames.

Recently purchased full set of woodgrain decals from Mr. Gs Enterprises in Forth Worth. Decals had thickness, texture and color which closely matched my original dash trim pieces. I bought to have should I decide to add AC. No color options unlike my 69 Mach One teak?  In fact, I like the presentation of the decals much better than the restored piece.

West Coast Classic Cougar offers door pull repro decals in burlwood decals which also appear to be good quality.

Just completed this project after checking with a number of places many refused to work on it due to concerns of disintegrating vinyl or foam materials. In any event, there's two options for your upholster — blind stitch with curved needle to gather French double stitching. There's plenty of videos that show how this is done and fairly common in auto seat repair. The other option is to carefully remove the lid from the console and have the upholsterer sew it from behind.

What is the correct woodgrain type for the door pull end caps.  What is on the car and other unmolested car looks different from all the other interior woodgrain?

Reminds me of the Cougar burlwood.

They make universal console covers that are washable.
I haven't measured but this may fit.

https://www.amazon.com/Timorn-Car-Center-Console-Cover/dp/B08V4PKZF3?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A24D65FD49T33Y

Many thanks!