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(Snip)
I've made a template of the clip holes (because I had to, not because I wanted to) so I can re-punch the repro water shields and hoping that'll help me align the clips on the panels before install as well.

I noticed mine had this issue with clip location. Like you, I will have to make a template and correct the holes.
One would think this is the easiest part of making a repop... get the hole location right.

Instead of futzing with this I started work on the 65. I can't put it off forever, though.

65 Mustang T-10, Ford shifter box, Ford linkage (incl levers), rear rubber mount with bolts, original driveshaft, driver handle and early shift ball (chrome so so). Like most T-10s it pops out of 2nd on decel. Otherwise it worked well with no bearing noises.
All case numbers correct for a 65 Mustang.

See pics and details here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Krxpp538pdphq3fj7

$995 plus shipping. I will NOT separate.

PM here.

Now I'll have to pave my driveway so you can bring it over here!

It is looking great.

Is this the kind of rail car used? It's a  tri-level auto-veyor and holds 15 cars. Pic is from around '66.

On edit -- showing how a small derail can cause damage.

https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=16102.0

Ok so its the same style of paint like they used for the engines? So which brand is ok to use for the rear ends?

Are you using a spray can or a custom mix in a spray gun?
What brands are are available there?

In spray cans I've noticed that SEM semi gloss is flatter than the Rustoleum semi gloss. And even within the Rustoleum brand there are differences between Fusion and other mixes.

I shot mine in SEM semi gloss from their canned product line. It matches the gloss of their can.
Either way I thought it too flat and reshot it.

Personally I like the "look" of Rustoleum in a can for many semi gloss applications.

Note too that the high temp semi gloss  version of some brands is shinier than their regular mix.

67 GT350 rear axle and color code (white).

We should start a club with all the 1370's cars in this thread!

The ammeter wiring goes through the choke cable hole for early cars. For later 350's there is an added hole for the wiring.

as Dave said, above.  Since GT500's had electric automatic choke all the GT500's used the Ford choke hole for the oil line and Amp gauge wire - no extra hole added.

(Edit thanks Bob!)

In JDs pic:

the early car has what appears to be a 65-66 choke cable grommet (sold at Virginia Mustang) while the later car has what my breakdown shows as a 379150-S rubber plug in the upper location.

Interestingly, an old pic of my car appears to show the early choke cable grommet at the bottom. The pic isn't very clear and the grommet appears to be broken in half.
I've included a zoomed in pic of the area showing the beveled plug at the top and a shadow of what looks like half of a 65-66 plug below.
[the car had a/c retrofitted, hence the plate gooped in when it was later removed.
Also bungies and wires are holding up the trans].

I'm not sure if I should use the beveled plug in both places (like JD's pic) or put back what I found. No telling what's stock in the chock cable hole due to the a/c stuff.

Automotive Specialties in Fla did mine.

Ok, thanks Tom.

[he didn't reply to my text, which is why I asked]

Measured the screws used in the under dash gauge assembly on #1352

4 ea. "Plastite Screw" , #4 x 1/4", slotted , countersunk, oval head, black oxide finish.
These hold the instruments in the two pod housings.
Note: Plastite screws are used with plastic, aluminum, and pot metal applications.

2 ea. #6 x 3/8" , slotted, pan head. Black oxide finish.
These hold the filler plate to the main housing.

Your car may be different, but this is what I found, and works in my car.

Thanks
Brent A

I measured the filler plate screws on mine and it's a 6-32 x 1/4 oval head slot. These are generically known in the industry as wall plate screws. However, wall plate screws have a head diameter of .279 whereas mine are .215. And really hard to find in that head diameter.
Can I get a verification on the head diameter, please?

Additionally, the screws that hold the under dash plate to the main body are 10-24 x 3/8 pan head slot in a zinc finish. Mine look too hardware to be correct...

JD's post:
https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=15936.msg130156#msg130156

Showed an early car which had a bracket different from mine. The main case of the pod is also different in that there is no hole.
Here is the pic in question:


My bracket is as shown in the attachment 1. It shows a totally different bracket than the pic above. It also shows a hole in the main case. The hole is painted.

The Assy manual shows (with circle for area of interest) a similar bracket to mine and a hole in the main case. My supposition is that the bracket was changed to ease assembly and the hole in the main case certainly helps.

The bracket is interesting in that the part of the bracket facing the underside of the dash is flat black. The area facing the carpet -- the portion you might see if poking around under here -- is textured like the main case.

Jeffs picture
See the arrow you will see a small point on the end of the 1\4 20 stud that little point you can feel with your finger . when i was judging cars i would reach under and feel for it on the back of the pods.
Every original 67 I have had had that point.
We never deducted any points for it I just used it as a gauge as to how many cars had it.


Dominic

I'm going to post a reply in a few different posts since there are so many details we need to talk about.
First is the "point". It appears that the long (2.275) "Y" gauge pod support post was made it left a point in the end of the post. See pic of side view.

Does he also restore the spokes?
The wood on my wheel was restored decades ago but the spokes  appear a little bent and scratched.

Metal working spokes is quite different than wood restoration.