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Messages - dockbay

#1
Hi All,
I have been monitoring Ebay for several years and checked with all the usual License Plate frame guys and have yet to see a Ron's Ford (Bristol, TN.) license plate frame.. Can anyone confirm for me that they exist? As this was where my car was shipped to from the factory I would love to find a frame for it! Any leads would be appreciated!
Cheers,
John
#2
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 1965 VIN’s
January 28, 2020, 08:49:58 PM
I was in LA over the weekend at a wonderful Shelby event at the Petersen Museum and brought 5S276 (one of the cars identified in the above picture) back to her birthplace!! 
#3
I have the CR6ZZ's (205/70/15) that I bought from Roger Krause racing on 5S276. They are mounted on 15X7 Torq-Thrust D's. I drove the car from San Rafael, CA to Moline IL with NO issues. I use this combo for everyday driving and put the Cragars and Blue Dot's on for shows... Just bare in mind that these are soft racing tires and don't expect to get 20,000 miles out of them!!

#4
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 1965 fuel pumps
July 23, 2019, 01:48:21 AM
Thanks guys! In touch with Fred.  Just in search of a good rebuildable core.  Any leads would be appreciated..
#5
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 1965 fuel pumps
July 20, 2019, 01:35:23 PM
Thanks for the education!!
#6
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 1965 fuel pumps
July 17, 2019, 02:20:07 PM
Hi Bob or Jeff!! So Can you help clear up my confusion about these pumps. Is there a definitive Carter Model# that was used on all the 65's? Some of the 65's? Maybe more than one model number? I've seen 4201-S, 4193-S.... And what is the correct MFG Name casting? "1719 CARbureTER, "Carter" or some other variant? Should it be a "Button top" or not? Thanks for the help!!!
#7
Looks like it's still listed... a steal at ONLY $850!! Might as well take a dozen....
#8
Thanks Charles... where do you find the logo?  Is it a stamp or  a clear sticker? Haven't seen any of those on eBay.
#9
1965 GT350/R-Model / "correct" oil filter for 65?
June 13, 2019, 02:11:14 PM
Hi guys,
What does the "club" consider correct for an oil filter on a 65?  I have seen Red Rotunda's, Gold 6000 mile Rotunda's, and rarely, The Black rotunda with the yellow writing. Yet to see a black one appear on eBay but certainly you can get NOS or re-pop red and gold ones....  Time for an oil change so I'm gonna need a new filter..
Cheers,
John
#10
At last year's national convention in Sonoma I had my car judged and I received NO deduction for having my master cylinder painted black (Base and Top cover). I Was told by a couple folks that this was correct and apparently the judges agreed.  At a recent Local Shelby gathering I had a couple "so Called" experts argue that it should be Natural with a Gold Cad Top cover. Opinions anyone???   I had heard that Shelby removed them to re-do the brakes after taking delivery from San Jose and painted them black so they didn't rust while they were "waiting" to be put back in the car?? Any truth to that??
Cheers,
John
#11
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Equalizer 'Z" Bar position 5S276
September 17, 2018, 11:58:01 PM
Thanks for all the input! Bob, I was thinking exactly the same thing about slotting the frame side bracket. Certainly the easiest fix. Clearly from Swede's post I can see that his is clearly closer to 90 degrees than mine is. 
#12
1965 GT350/R-Model / Equalizer 'Z" Bar position 5S276
September 17, 2018, 02:43:02 AM
Hi Guys! It was great to meet some of you at SAAC 43! I had my car judged so I could begin to understand all the small things that it needs to make it as original as possible. One of the things that was pointed out was a note that my Z bar was bent. I know this is very common and it's an easily obtainable part to correct. The questions however I have is that I think (although Charles or John who judged the car couldn't actually remember) that what they saw was NOT that the upper or lower arm was bent BUT that the position of the "tube" part of the z bar was not perpendicular between the frame and the block. I believe that when I bought the car it was "off" by a bit and after rebuilding the motor and putting it back in it is still not at 90 degrees between the frame and the block.. Should it be? As you know, the mount on the frame is designed only to move inboard and outboard to allow for putting the bar in place. In order to get mine to be at 90 degrees to the frame I appear to need to pull my motor forward by somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4" The issue with that is that the header on the drivers side is already too close the shock tower, the Air cleaner is almost touching the Monte Carlo bar  and there isn't any room for forward movement! Your thoughts are ALWAYS appreciated...
Cheers,
John
#13
Thanks!
#14
Hi Everyone,
Can someone tell me the correct cable diameter?  I see someone mention 1/8" cable. Is that correct?
Cheers,
John
5S276

BTW,, Bo, my bolts traction bar bolts are not shaved even though your car is only one away from mine... I still have what I believe to be the the original NAT bolts.
#15
Thanks for the feedback! I just checked in my records to see how old the PCV valve was as I thought it might be involved somehow. It's pretty new. I like the idea of the restrictor in the line as that would be hidden. I'll give Craig a call in the morning to determine the size of the hole in the plug..
Cheers,
John