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What does an original 66 Shelby aluminum T pan go for nowadays?

I have had good luck doing my own with a kit from Harmon Classic Brakes:

https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50001029z~Z5Z5Z59832~P225.95~~~~S5Q7141CGX67173115251e~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50001029z

I always thought the top of the choke plate looked a little closed at wide open because it has a slight bend downward at the front. I think this is how they were made. Anybody agree?

Have seen  =  =  on later 67's.  SEMS on earlier.

Check this link:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/114083-Ford-9-Disk-brake-conversion-kit

Bump - I still have one inner and one outer set for sale.

Does the sticker behind driver's door mark the water line?

I noticed that in sequence (video) #12 they still haven't noticed the problem, as the cap is not in place.  I hope that when the error(s) are noticed they will let it be known in future videos.  I'll bet most of us who work on their own cars have similar stories to tell.

So for those experienced; Would it be best to install the fuel tank prior to filler neck and gas cap?  It's been so long that I have done any work in that area I can't remember.

You might try sanding down the contacts a little on the new bulb.  I have also found that the old sockets can get stiff and sticky after all these years.  Push in on the socket contacts and see if it is hard to compress or is sticky.  Sometimes a little sil-glyde on the contacts will help.

If necessary, one could check the MC for residual check valve by removing the suspected line and probing the hole on the tube seat.  If you feel something rubbery/springy in there it probably is a check valve. No check valve and probe will just pass through (at least 1/4- 1/2").  I believe most mustang setups have the drum circuit on the front hole (please correct me if you know otherwise), so I would check that one first.

Dual master cylinders for disc/drum brakes may have a residual check valve in the drum circuit.  Probably not your problem, but if a disc/drum master was used in a dual disc setup, it could possibly mimic the problem you describe.
Have you determined if it is the front or the rear calipers locking up?

Yes, I was referring to the front only.  I have a couple sets of front and rear Striders, and the fronts look pretty close to mine (with noted exception to the shape of the tube).  I know they aren't going to pass for originals upon close scrutiny.

The picture certainly is not of a 65-70 Mustang shock. Surely it must be a mistake but OP had better confirm before ordering.

They show 2 different part numbers for the front shocks 65-70 and 71-73. The center picture is correct for 65-70.
These look a lot like Gabriel Striders but with different valving.
I assume you guys are thinking the 60/40 setting would be OK for street?
At any rate, finding hydraulic non-gas shocks nowadays at a reasonable price is difficult, especially with the somewhat correct look.

https://www.performanceonline.com/1965-73-Ford-Mustang-Front-3-Way-Adjustable-Shocks/

Can someone tell me if these are drag shocks, or if they might work on a street car?
I have no experience with valving ratios as listed - Thanks

Original K/H centers will typically have stamped assembly date code from back in the day, like month day year.  Also may have 70616 stamp.
My Specialty Magstars also have differently spaced rivets (about 1" farther apart) compared to originals.