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Howard Turner's car?  I don't remember the color - probably not red...white?

The one in my Lotus 7 was "boxier".  And I think it was Smiths?

IMO no way the curve results will ID a distributor.  Most of the ones I work on have been messed with.

A C5OF-E uses the 13/18 reluctor.  If it is assembled correctly, the maximum mechanical advance at the crankshaft will be 2 X 13 = 26 degrees.

I have worked on a C5AF-E FoMoCo with a 8E date code which would have to be a pretty late 1968 model year application.  I would think if you find a C5AF-E with a good date code for the car's build date you shouldn't pay much attention to whether it is FoMoCo or Autolite.

Thanks for the polite comment Barry.  I think you will find that some moderator deleted a reply to your request that stated something like "my friend xxx has one, contact him at yyy@scam.com to buy it".  This is classic scammer lingo and I posted scam in response to it to alert you to what was going on.  I don't know where that post went, but my comment was not directed at you.  It was directed at the scam post in response that has now disappeared.

Scam

Williams Radiator ask for Jake
706-778-6141
He did my 428CJ Radiator fantastic job.

Pete

It won't be fast, it won't be cheap, but it will be perfect.

I have done carburetors in mine but I used just water - no solvent.  I clean bearings and plastic parts and use LA Awesome from Dollar General - works great.  I think the heat is probably as much of the formula for success as the solvent.  However - I used the LA Awesome on some aluminum once and it darkened the finish.  I was told by someone who should know that I just had too strong a solution and that it works fine if very diluted.  I haven't experimented since.
There are specific cleaners available - such as the one below - that say they are for aluminum.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-CLEAN2030-Corrosion-Inhibitor-Ultrasonic/dp/B012GQOJIE/ref=pd_ci_mcx_pspc_dp_d_2_t_1?pd_rd_w=LwyT5&content-id=amzn1.sym.568f3b6b-5aad-4bfd-98ee-d827f03151e4&pf_rd_p=568f3b6b-5aad-4bfd-98ee-d827f03151e4&pf_rd_r=XHD6CP5637TPDY5CQDDB&pd_rd_wg=rdgdz&pd_rd_r=ff1f3475-22b3-49b9-a151-7270f8268195&pd_rd_i=B012GQOJIE

I have the 15L size Chinese one you find on eBay.  Works great, but be sure to buy one from a seller that accepts returns.  My first one was DOA and it turned into a disagreement between eBay and the seller.

Sent you a PM.

Thank you for the referral guys.  www.rockhouseracing.com  

This is the former Harris Conner R-Model.  I don't know the number but you guys do.

I think the idea of adding the windage tray comes from Ford's recommendation that these engines run an additional quart of oil.  Apparently, Ford thought that the extra oil level could interfere with the crankshaft, thus the windage tray.  I always ran the extra oil and a tray.


I share the concern about drainback, especially since the FE engines have a reputation for retaining a lot of oil in the upper part of the engine.  I drill drainback holes aligned over the main caps (where they are hidden from oil slinging from the rods) to hopefully improve drainback.  Might help and I don't think it hurts.  See picture.

PM sent.