Messages

I have a different view of the reason for the closings.  Most of these businesses have been around
for 30 or more years.  The owners have reached retirement age.  The smaller shops either close
or are bought by larger shops.  The really large shops have to look for people who can afford to
buy out the multi-million dollar inventory.  Not too many folks with the money and enthusiasm for
retail businesses these days.  The folks in a position to buy are also looking at retirement and
say to themselves, boy if I were younger I would get into the business, but why tie up my
money now.  Retail is so cutthroat today with the internet, it takes a lot of internal fortitude
to jump into the fray.

As to the statement concerning purchasing of NOS parts, I recently spoke with many of the
vendors who only deal in NOS and they all said business was slow.

Just my view from 35 years of experience in the business.

Ford allowed companies to use the word Mustang in their names for too long to force any
changes at this point.  Went through all of this in the early 90's and Ford was out of luck
then.  Some companies started to change their names, but nothing ever happened because
Ford had missed the time frame to enforce their ownership of the Mustang name in regard to
businesses.  Ford did start a making companies pay a royalty for trademarked parts that
were reproduced following GM's lead.

Have seen many 65-66 Fastbacks that had rivets (2) holding the drip rail molding in place.
Not sure if it was done in San Jose or as a dealer repair for poor fitting moldings.  Shelby's
got them as well...but not all.  Depending on the amount of sealer on the top side, sometimes
the rivets did not show, but cars with thin sealer usually showed through as a small pop up.
No screws were used.

I am the grateful recipient of this carb.  I want to thank Drew for his expert work.
Thanks to Greek for surprising me with wonderful gift.  I never thought this carb
could be restored.  Nice to have it back on 6S429 where it belongs.

Sue

Most of the fuel sending units sold today do not read accurately.  There are a few manufacturers,
but I have yet to find one brand that is consistently good.

My first question is, was the unit being removed an original Ford or a repro?

If a repro, installing a new repro will either have the same problem or possibly a different
problem. 

I think a lot of the sender units are being tested by their manufacturers with repro gauges,
thus not reading properly with original gauges.  I have not thoroughly tested this yet, but
I am suspect.

Many repro fuel senders read 3/4 when full.  Others read full, but you are out of gas at 1/4.
Hell on cars (owners) that are driven often.

Looks like the ones made on Ford dies by Goodyear in Akron OH during the 80's.
Sold through the Ford dealers.  Part number (engineering numbers) usually in the
gray foam

Rubber and seal are coming out together.  The seal would stretch too much if
the window was forced from the seal, or maybe tear.  Clean up of the seal
will be a real mess.

First you will need to remove the stainless trim.  Most  likely you will encounter
a lot of black sealant.  You may need to carefully remove the excess.  I would
protect the adjacent paint all the way around.

I would suggest having 3 people for this project.  Two inside who will take the
seal lip and push it away from the body.  Two people working carefully along the
top should be able to release the window and then work down the sides.  The
person outside will keep the window from falling.  Be careful not to tear the headliner.

There is a probability that the glass could be broken if too much stress is put
on the glass as its' pushed out.  There will be old sealer everywhere (if it was
properly sealed) and will quite a mess.  WD 40 can be a good cleaner.

I have found that it is beneficial to add a GANO or TEFBA filter into the upper hose
to catch rust particles and debris left over from the rebuild process.  This saves
the radiator.  We have caught debris in all the engines that have been rebuilt.


Sue

In response to reply #33

SURE  I've helped with writing the rules and judging sheets for other clubs.  It's just
tedious work that needs to be done with the cooperation of others to double check
the product.

I would like to see the current rules/sheets if they are available as stated.

Thanks
Sue

Most of the issues that are addressed about concours judging could be eliminated by having
the written rules or judging sheets available to the membership.  The owner of the car or restorer
could then be aware of issues and correct problems or at least ask questions to get to a
better outcome BEFORE presenting the car.

Every other car club that I belong to has these documents available

Sue

According to Shelby's painter during the 65-66 run, he hated the blue stripes.  His
response when asked for a name or code for the color was that he never mixed the
blue the same.  He "didn't give a shit" what it looked like, his dislike was so intense.
This was during the Friday night event at the 1st Fontana meet.  The room was filled
with probably 125 people that witnessed his response.

I have seen 3 original paint 65-66 with stripes and the colors have ranged from a
very bright blue to almost a teal color.  I believe he was truthful.

Sue

Definitely check to see if it is hot.  Possibly for the windshield wiper motor?  Have the
wipers been checked for operation?

Jeff, in reply #15 you state Hot Rod black.  Which manufacturer are you referring to?
Thanks