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The numbers are consistent for the first big three. What happens then is the transmission is the driving difference and then that defines the different numbers that follow (The number of grabber green with AT's versus STD's). Those reports are also designed to try to get cars to 1 of 1 so they sometimes pick obscure options and do the drill down in funky order to get a car there.  Welcome to the 1 of 1 car club- there's tons of them out there  

Thanks. Just curious- did that transition to the ribbed structure also show up on Shelby hoods built around that time if not, what were the transition dates to the ribbed under structure on the Shelby hoods (if ever)?

I used to have a picture that showed at some point Ford added ribs to the underside structure across the front of the 65-66 hood near hood pin. Does anyone know the transition dates from when the hoods had underneath ribs and didn't?

1966 1967 Corvette GM 3874799 DT-40-1868 Filler Panel Rear Exhaust Valance Panel

I was told at Ford Carlisle that one of the well-known Shelby shops had a bunch made THIS year as well, but they wouldn't say who. I guess it's cheaper to make a bunch if you know who to go to and age them versus paying the asking prices you see for originals these days. The one in the auction also looks like a repro with all those very new looking machined surfaces so it could be one of the old repro's from Shelby Parts we've heard about in the past- who knows for sure. 

Scode67- thanks for the chart. "C4AW-A small bearing" listed in the chart and some of the earlier pictures and comments helped narrow down what I could do if I want to get something that visually looks good but maybe has the larger axle set-up or try to find something specific that would have come on a Shelby/k-code like the C4AW-A small bearing.  Thanks again everyone. I've "only" been playing with mustangs' for maybe 25yrs and I'm still learning names for certain parts and trying to decipher what people here are explaining at times. I don't have the decades of experience that some of you have and its great everyone takes on this stuff so passionately so the knowledge can be passed down and not forgotten to time.

Thanks everyone. Sounds like the center section is standard 65 9" issue across bodies/models and the yoke is also the same across them so nothing unique was added to the Shelby except the snubber bracket. I'll decide on a date range and hit the swaps this fall for a complete one.  Thanks again!

Just thinking, the one variable left the axles- was the Shelby center section the only one that used 28 spline or were there others (in other words I'm wondering if I'll probably only find a 31 spline because 28 is rare and unique to K-codes and Shelbys and that I'll have to swap the guts out).

So, no-one has any knowledge about the unique characteristics of the 65 center sections?   Do the Shelbys/k-codes have a unique yoke versus a center from a 9" rear from some other 65 ford model or can I find any center section with dates I want and it will "look" the same and bolt tight in? Any unique differences I could see visually? I would love to arm myself with as much knowledge as I can before attending some of the fall swap meets and doing internet searches just seems to provide conflicting information.  Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom. 

On a side note, I did find a picture showing the differences between the 65 and 66 snubber brackets which was helpful but that alone doesn't always help as people often sell the centers without that bracket.

I have a real 65 9" but at some time during its history the center section was replaced by one from what looks like one from the 70's.  If I want to put something in there with at least 65 date casting info on it is there any identifiers I can look for to tell if something is a true 1965 Shelby/k-code center section? Alternatively, can I just put in one with the right year from any model car like a galaxy etc. if I just want to have the outward appearance of correctness?  What's in there works and I have the snubber bracket but would like it more if I had at least a date coded center section for 1965 so I'm contemplating my options.

Sold $106,575 inclusive of fee's. Makes the price of the AZ one auctioned off in recent months a head scratcher.

I saw a posting for a blue 1968 Shelby gt350 convertible in FB Marketplace in Wantagh NY. I also happened to see a sign for it at Carlisle this past weekend (car was not there). I spoke to him and he mentioned he felt it was an original Shelby and was getting comments about it having the wrong tail panel. I tried to give him some info and also told him if he planned to put it on Bring-A-Trailer he better do his homework and at least figure out what happened to the tail panel and verify the VIN stamping are there and not just the windshield VIN tag (Shelby tag under the hood was gone).  I'm not in the market but in case anyone here is you may want to check it out (and do your due diligence). 

I liked the car- would have loved to just do the basics and just drive it not touching the body but bidding got too high for my wallet. I also just had a hard time getting reliable info from the auction house. I asked about the mileage, and they seemed to have no clue other than what was said on the title "c-not the actual mileage". Bring it to a convention as is- would be great to see in person. It will be a great car left as is or restored- congratulations!

I like the car but have a feeling even if the price doesn't get overly crazy the bidder's premium is going to put a nail in the coffin. I'd also feel better if this was a large Mecum type auction and not a strip mall auction that sells baseball cards one week and then things like this. Regardless of the fee's and short storage time limit, it's really the transfer of title and right paperwork required for some states that makes buying something for a lot of money from a place like this scary. BJ, Mecum, etc. have their faults but for the most part seem to do due diligence on paperwork and transfer things in good order. I'm sure there are a few but overall, not many states will take a vintage title not in the seller's name to register it.  Maybe a good car for a person in AZ to buy- maybe less issues that way.

I looked again over the week while I await my new repro Z-Bar from VA Mustang. Based on the comments, I do see a stop so the pedal doesn't come up beyond a certain point but don't remember a stop being on the assembly to keep it from going down too far? The functionality of the clutch itself seemed fine just the pedal overextending the main return spring was the issue. The sleeves the pedal shafts go through are fine no extra play. The clutch in there was a kit that included the throw-out bearing and it's a new Zoom one and a diaphragm type.  I'll post an update when I get the new z-bar in - in a way I'm hoping mine was bent and this will solve it 

Thanks for the feedback. I was able to confirm over the weekend that I did have power to one of the posts and when I put a jumper between the two the horn goes off. I took apart the parts in the wheel and cleaned it up but still no go. I will have to figure out how to test the slip ring continuity. I see they sell rebuild kits so I may order one just in case but based on the feedback and what I'm seeing so far it does in fact seem like a wheel issue. Thanks as always for the insight.