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Messages - Dynomax

#1
Thanks a lot everyone  for your answers, excellent!
#2
I have the grommet sorted, but would appreciate a photo showing the location of the firewall hole for the hose. Many thanks in advance!
#3
Could someone kindly supply a photo showing the '65 GT350 oil gauge hose firewall entry location. Protection grommet details would be appreciated too. Thanks in advance.
#4
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: SFM6S1172
September 18, 2022, 10:09:46 PM
The photo that I am looking at of the floor pan, is not wide enough to show the area occupied by the driver's side exhaust mount double skin.
#5
Quote from: gt350bp on July 16, 2022, 07:56:36 PM
I ended up cutting my springs three times to get the ride height I wanted and use about 2 degrees negative camber. Good luck with your build and keep us posted on progress

Don
gt350bp
Hi Don. Thanks for the additional information. I always expected to be cutting the springs. Do you have any free length and spring wire diameter dimensions for OE performance (or any other) coil springs so I can compare with what I have as a starting point? I appreciate that free length and wire diameter do not necessarily dictate spring rate. I really like the stance of your car. I have new C5ZZ-5560-HD rear springs in the car at the moment but also have a set of mid-eye "Grab A Track" which I will fit as the "HD" sit too high for me. I'll then look at cutting the fronts. I'll keep you posted by updating this one once I have something worth sharing!
#6
Quote from: gt350bp on July 14, 2022, 03:48:37 PM
With the Shelby drop, are you running any negative wedge camber kits? If the springs are too long, I would expect this to occur. I generally will get everything together and set the car down as noted. Another suggestion is to use the roller bearing spring seats.

Don
gt350bp
Hi Don and thanks for your input. Yes, negative camber wedge kits are installed. I think that you are right with your comment regarding over-length springs (see my reply to Bob).
#7
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on July 14, 2022, 12:00:20 PM
Is the tail of the spring in the right spot? Looks like it's past the locating tab. With the suspension in droop the angle does change putting the shock closer to the outside edge. I generally assemble everything then set the car on the ground to tighten the inner lower control arm bolt and install the top of the shock.

Yes, although unclear from my photo, the tail is up against the locating tab. See my reply to Bob for what's looking like the most likely causes. Thanks for your input.
#8
Quote from: KR Convertible on July 14, 2022, 10:03:59 AM
Do you have weight on the front suspension?  If not, the suspension is hanging and the control arms are angled down.
Thanks for your reply. Car is on a 4 post hoist, motor and trans are in and suspension is fully loaded. I will check for tension in inner bushes (in case PO had tightened arms in a "down" position and not fully loaded as required).
#9
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 14, 2022, 09:40:03 AM
Are both sides the same? Does the car's front end adjust to proper alignment specs? Does a export brace bolt up proper or does it need persuasion to bolt on? Same with the Monte Carlo bar. The answers to those questions will help with a diagnoses .
Thanks for your reply. Both sides are identical. The car has picked up a lot of positive camber with the Shelby drop (as expected) but will adjust OK. A big light went on when I read your question about the export brace and Monte Carlo bar. The export brace that came with the car was incorrectly pressed and a nasty imitation. I now have an excellent replacement. Both the export brace and Monte Carlo bar will require spreading of the towers for fitment. Any movement in that direction will reduce the misalignment of the shock absorbers that I am concerned about. I also believe that the coil springs may be "over length" which is leading the springs to bow slightly with a corresponding rotation of the lower spring perch. Do you have any free length and spring wire diameter dimensions for OE performance coil springs so I can compare with what I have as a starting point? Thanks again.
#10
I bought an unfinished project '65 Fastback some years ago and am enjoying working my way through the process. Car will be a GT350 "replica" when completed. I have an unusual problem (I was a Ford technician in the '70's and am familiar with this Ford suspension design, plus I have done some research and found nothing so far to help).

The issue is the front shock absorber is misaligned outwards at the top when sitting on the front spring seat perch. If the shock absorber is positioned correctly within the upper mounting bracket, there is a gap of approximately ΒΌ" between the outer shock absorber stud underside and the spring perch.

All parts are new and nothing is bent. Reversing the shock absorber 180 degrees provides the same results as the lower flange on the shock absorber has been correctly located before production welding. Front end has the "Shelby drop", springs are of unknown spec but previous owner said that they were "performance based". Any ideas?
#11
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Hood Prop Rod
April 18, 2022, 10:58:33 PM
Can the diameter of the prop rod material be confirmed please? Appears to be 1/4" but I'm a firm believer of the "ask and order once not twice" approach! Does anyone have photos of the rod to hood contact point? I'm interested to see if it was bracketed or used an existing recess. Many thanks.
#12
I am well into a '65 GT350 replica build and have just completed the rear brakes. As stated above, the 10" x 2 1/2" backing plates are specific to this shoe width. I used the backing plates from an '84 Lincoln Town Car and they are a perfect fit with the small bearing end 9" housing. These backing plates carry the following markings; LH: Bendix 3206205-L, RH Bendix 3206206-R. Both also carry the "Ford" logo.
#13
Bob, many thanks for your quick reply, much appreciated. I had my fingers crossed that this would be the answer!
#14
Replicas and Tribute / '65 4 Speed Shifter Question
August 01, 2021, 08:31:20 PM
I have just completed the rebuild of an original 4 speed shifter assembly. Can anyone confirm if there are any differences  between the shifter used with a T-10 and a Top Loader (other than the shifter rods and I assume, the shift levers)? And before anyone asks, I have just discovered that I have T10 shifter rods but I am using a Top Loader! Thanks for your help.
#15
Hi and thanks for your help. I already have a'65 panel. This car won't be seeing any track action and the spare location will be ok in New Zealand. I will certainly look at reinforcing the underside based the '66 photo that Cory posted.