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The incident was caused by a clumsy old man......  Me!  Did a bunch of work on Dan's car.  Almost done and had it parked a bit closer to a car than the one that had just left...  Been walking between the other car for 2 or 3 months......  The extra 2 inches closer made me trip and fall like a sack of dirt on the floor.....  I hit it with my to go coffee cup...

Please help Dan out.  If the COBRANDA repop is ok I will purchase it.  If not, maybe you guys know a good restorer that can straighten it.  It is not bent to point of a kink.  I have not had good look with repop grill pieces on stock Stangs.  I always try to restore original pieces if I can.

Rob

Bob,
Cool cool!  Hope to sell or give it to someone who needs it.  It is little value to me, but might be a treasure to someone else!  I am not a purist, but a lover of Ford car lines and the people that love Fords!  If someone out there can use this let me know.  I will move it for a lot less.  I can take detailed pics and ship it safely!

Rob

Ah, as I already kinda knew you would say.  Just to clear the air, I am not trying to justify this radiator as a Shelby radiator.  Please share with us the proper tag number and some of your knowledge of how many examples you have seen.  Please share the source of your documentation on the radiator.  If it purely observational even by a collection of enthusiasts, then it would be interesting to know an approximation of how many 1967 GT 500's you have observed? As a percentage of the total.

The reason I posted on THIS site is the collective knowledge and to ensure that I knew what I had.  From what Mr. Speegle has found and yes, my one documented source it is correct for a 1967 Mustang with a 390.  With that in mind I can properly represent it as that, and in that, it still has some value.

I think it would be interesting to post this discussion on the 1967 Shelby thread.  See how many people have original radiators and what their tags are.

You have forgotten more than I will ever know about the Shelby line.  My Ford knowledge spans various makes and models of the Blue Oval car line and I bleed Ford blue.  Decades or observation and wrenching and listening.  And I return to my previous thought.  Never say Never.  I punctuate most comments with phases like "to the best of the documentation and observation that I have read or seen".  And that is exactly where the knowledge was gained and what it is worth.

Rob

Bob,
So your research must come from hands on inspection of many 1967 Shelby big blocks and noting the tag numbers?  Or do you have another source?  Or as I like to say "never say never" unless every 1967 Shelby produced (or a very large percentage) has been looked at.

My old doctor worked on the graveyard shift at the Ford engine assembly plant.  Rule number one was "the line does not stop".  You know what rule two was.  390's for example came down the line and sometimes a he said that the performance versions came down the same line as the passenger car engines.  Sometime the performance "camshaft" bin was empty and the engine got whatever was available.  This was a quote from an actual line worker.

I have had fun battles on subjects such as these in the past.  I learn, and sometimes other people learn.  Like screwed on dash data plates in 1968 Mustangs and Cougars at Dearborn.  Never happened?  Yes, it did?

Rob

My "Ford Muscle Parts Identifier and Restoration Guide" that was first printed in 1992 identifies a "cast" number of C7ZE-V.  This number crosses in this book to a part number C7ZZ-C.  Not sure if this book thinks a cast number is a tag number.  The C7ZZ-C part number crosses to a 1967 390 with standard cooling or with extra cooling and AC.  My car was not an AC car from the factory.  The C7ZZ-C part number is the only part number listed for a big block 390 in this book for 1967.  So according to this book it was proper for my 1967 Mustang 390 GTA.  The tag is original and so is the core.  My background in radiators helps here.  My car is a San Jose car so it may be different than Shelby's.  I offer this for someone who wants this originality.  It is old, but it is not plugged and does not leak.  I change anti freeze annually and we have owned this car since 1976.  It has led a pampered life.

The bottom tank could be easily replaced by a competent radiator shop.  I have done literally hundreds of them.

Rob 

Sorry Bob, you are not Bill,
It is definitely a V2 tag.  Our car is an original 390 automatic car that we are the 3rd owner of since 1975.  The fittings are gone and the bottom tank is more than likely a 4 speed version.  I am 100 percent confident that it is original to our car.  Not sure if it is appropriate for a 67 Shelby auto car our not.  You are the expert, but a local Shelby restorer feels it is correct for a 1967 Shelby GT 500 auto car.  What is your opinion?

Rob

Bill,
Is this correct for a 1967 Shelby with a big block?  Or, am I mistaken?

Rob

No numbers on the side brackets.  Tag is on left side across the bracket attachment area.  C7ZE  V2.  Under the clamp down bracket area that was covered is WMO and under the WMO is 06  11.   Top tank has FoMoCo stamp on right side.

Hello,
I have a numbers correct 1967 Mustang 390 GTA radiator for sale.  I worked in a radiator shop and this is still the original core.  The lower outlet was moved to support a 289 and then moved back to the factory position.  The automatic transmission cooler was also removed.  The top tank has never been removed.  It does not leak and was removed to upgrade to an aluminum radiator.  If anyone is interested I can post pictures of all the numbers and the radiator itself.

$700 Dollars.  I have the shipping box for the aluminum radiator to ship it in.

Rob 

Dudes,
the owner of my old 1968 GT/CS or GNS wants to convert to a manual tranny. So below is up for sale with very little run time. Perfect for that crate engine motor you are "jonesin" to put in your ride!! This AOD is the "hammer" you need to complete the experience of dusting off the new bloated 4,500 hundred pound stuff the sell now a days!!

It is a complete set up ready to go and still in the car!

Rob


COMPLETE direct fit AOD conversion for a 1965 to 1973 Mustang. May fit other Ford Car and Truck models with minor modifications such as the rear cross member. Buyer needs to do their own research for other applications.

The AOD has about 1,000 miles on it and owner wants to go to manual transmission. Items you will receive are the AOD, the torque convertor, the complete driveshaft recently balanced by D&D Drivelines of Tacoma Washington. You get the block plate, a reprogramed stock shifter and rod, and the overdrive cancel switch. Also accessory deep pan, dip stick, tranny cooler, and Lokar TV cable. The stock shifter was modified to force usage of the shift button to be pushed in to reach the neutral position. No more accidental manual shifts from 2nd to 3rd and hitting neutral under full power!!

The AOD and conversion kit is Performance Automatic Transmission Center (PATC) AO Dominator package. Rated to withstand up to 750 HP. Came with the matching torque convertor rated at about 3,000 rpm depending on weight of car and gear ratio. See link below:

https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/xx-3/

Link to PATC Mustang conversion kit:

https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/...ts-patc-parts/

The valve body was replaced with a Lentech Strip Terminator AOD ( No Brake ). This valve body is state of the art and allows for full manual shifting of an AOD in a normal C4 1, 2. 3 pattern. No more stupid AOD shift pattern and lack of the manual shift feature! Also includes the overdrive lockout feature which is a lighted rocker switch mounted on the dash. This is how Ford should have built the AOD in the first place. This valve body increases line pressure and durability of the transmission under power. Please read link below and click on Strip Terminator AOD (no brake) under the valve body section.

http://lentechautomatics.com/products/

This combination is bomb proof and with the right engine you are ready for street and strip warfare!! Combination is still in the car and can be tested. It will not be removed until sold. A video can be sent showing the tranny in action.

This is a $4k investment. Save $1k and pick this bad boy up for $3k!! This total package is perfect for the buyer who wants the drive ability of an overdrive coupled to the strength to handle almost any engine combination!!

   

When I win the lottery (never bought a ticket) I am going to put a SOHC 427 Ford motor in a 1963 Corvette Split window.  Yes, I am tired of brand X motors in Fords.

Rob

I have sold this spacer.  Sorry for the late posting.

Rob

Hello,
Up for sale is a Ford carb spacer plate that appears to be from a 1968 Shelby GT-350 engine.  It was on my friends 1965 HIPO motor underneath a List 4118 Holley that I believe came off a 1968 Shelby GT-350.  Or maybe an earlier Ford Performance engines?  The PCV tube is not broken and it is in good operating condition.  Thank you for looking.  PM me with your offer.

Rob

I will talk to the owner and see if he wants to sell.  If so I will move it to a for sale area on the site.

Rob

All,
This was on the 65 Hipo motor I recently went through for a customer.  What the heck is it?  Seems to be a late 60's spacer plate from a performance engine.

Rob