Messages

With out the Paxton all your going read is Vacuum.

NPD Has it in their catalog, any size you want.

Thank you guys.

I am thinking same as you. I don't know the proper sealer to use, my car is painted without sealer in the drip rails.

Prior to installation of Decals, the surface of the part must be Clean, dry & glossy finish.  After decal/sticker is installed the Edges must be sealed with clear Nail polish.

Are you sure, 1486, Feb '67 has one piece, either way I'm confused now.

A small block is no charm either. I had to use a porta - power and a bottle jack plus a few cuss words so it would fit.

Installing sparkplugs dry can lead to difficulty removing them.  Place some Anti Seize compound on the threads of all the plugs prior to  installation. Removal will be easer when accessed, #8.

Do you know what dealership, are they still there, no grantee that  old records  are kept.

All hardware has a torque value for its size.  the chart can be found on-line.  I use the Windage tray withy no problems. Any doubts, use Mil hardware or drill heads for safety wire.

Looks like no one knows, I wonder the same thing. Sorry.

the Caps had  aircraft Nut Plates  riveted to them and I think  #10 hex head screws.

Ford parts  had them  in early 1980's, they had a C9  p/n  stamped on them.

Dear BGLover67,  If you followed  all the ''Good Advice''  here, you will end up with a dissembled car on a lonely highway...alone.
Run-on, pre ignition, dieseling, post ignition, call it what you want, is caused by Hot carbon in your cylinder heads. if it were electrical the engine would follow the timing order.  The next time this happens,  lift the cap off the distributer,  it will continue to run uneven.   How do you fix;remove the heads & clean or drive the car like you stole it.  Good luck young man.                           

The letter at the end of a part no. for the same part represents some design change, sometimes ''one part fits all''.