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@Corey Bowcutt, I would love a copy too please.

Cheers,
         Chris.

That would be me! 2500 miles of driving over 10 days, and the only issue was losing an S off the rear on a dirt road. No worries, a quick duct-tape fix kept is in the race (and saved us from driving a "Helby"...).

The attention the car got was amazing. The first question most people asked was "Is that a *real* Shelby?" Second question was usually "Is that a factory original color?". I feel kind of honored to have been able to take a KR into some of the real back-backroads of America. There were some amazing cars in the Rally, but time and again people would come up to me to say that the Shelby was their favorite...

The biggest surprise to me was that we actually walked away with second place in the Rookie category (and 37th overall, out of 130 cars). Muscle means nothing in this competition, but our final day result of 9 seconds shows just how well suited to this competition a Shelby is... (for those not familiar with TSE - Time/Speed/Endurance - rallies, the instructions that are given out each day just list turns, times and speeds - penalty points are scored for every second you are above or below the perfect time, so it is all about accuracy and consistency...)


https://www.greatrace.com/results (Tann/Col).
https://www.greatrace.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/220626_GR_6118.jpg

Just closing out my own thread...

Got a replacement cable sent out, and it fit just fine. Conclusion? Just poor quality control on the initial cable they sent me...

Chris.

Love it!

I know the previous owner of my KR used to Autocross it out at Candlestick park in the late 70's or early 80's - how I would love to find an old photo of it!

@Van, is your Shelby still in the area? We actually cruised through Laguna Seca in the KR on the "Coast to Copper Rally" back in March...

Cheers,
            Chris.

Hi Rodney,

Yes I have and will continue to deduct for ten-spokes. The last judging sheet I have does not say no ten spokes but it does specify 15 x 6 semi gloss steel wheels. I just wanted that no ten-spokes with out documentation clause as someone might try and make an argument for the ten-spokes as a few ( very few ) cars did get them.

Is there a further deduction if the spare does not match the Road wheels? That is what I recall reading at some point... Again, I doubt anyone but me will be judging these details of my Shelby (and this judge is easily bribed... ), but interesting to know.

As I think I mentioned, I do have the hubcaps tucked away against a future restoration, and even 5 steel wheels (the spare steel wheel may even be original, not sure about that), but for now, 10 spokes it is. I am taking her on a little 2500 mile jaunt from Rhode Island to North Dakota in June - so obviously a "driver"! Oh, I forgot to mention she also came away with the "Provenance Award" at the recent Coast-to-Copper rally, so she still gets some love from the judges!

Chris.

I understand what you are wanting to do. I used 10 spokes but used an original KH steel wheel in the trunk like the factory did. So you definitely don't want the steel wheel look in the trunk?

I decided to go with the "matching spare" approach. I don't know that this car will ever get "judged" (aside from by me), but as I understand, *if* a car had come with 10-spokes from the factory (I know there were few if any...), then it would have had five matching wheels, and if the 10-spokes were "dealer-added", it would have had four 10-spokes and a steel wheel spare. But that was based on my memory of internet reading from 20 years ago (when I fitted the 10-spokes), so willing to be corrected there...

As an aside, I actually fitted a different size tire on my spare wheel anyway (a P195/60R-15, rather than the P225/60R-15s) so it would fit properly, so it technically doesn't match anyway...

Thanks for the replies!

Chris.

Hi all,

I know this tends to be a hub-cap type of place. Mine are still tucked away in the attic until "that day", but for now - 10-spokes on the car...

My question is about stowing the spare (10-spoke). I have a wing-nut and washer, and am stowing the spare "face up" (with the jack positioned underneath as normal). However, I have also seen (and tried myself) the spare stowed face down, using the lug wrench as the hold-down - which is similar to what is shown on the spare-tire placard in the trunk. That way also gives me a little more space, as I can stow a few tools and things in the "dish" at the rear of the wheel.

It may not be important, but I get a little bit of pleasure about things being "right" (no comments about the lack of "rightness" go 10-spokes in the first place please... )

Cheers,
             Chris.

(photo not my car, although it is the same color!)

Hi all,

My '68 GT500KR (auto) previously had an incorrect (60") speedo cable, which didn't survive long after I changed back to the original transverse style exhaust system. I am replacing it with a "Scott Drake Speedometer Cable Concours Automatic 1967-1968/3-Speed 1967".

First snag was when I tried to swap the speedometer gear. The thicker part at the end of the new cable is about 1/8" or so longer than the one that was on the car, and so the old (21 tooth) gear wouldn't fit. I ordered a new gear, but in the photos it looks exactly the same as the one I have, and there seems to be only one type, so I'm worried I may have the same problem again. Anyone run into this before? is it possible that the old cable was actually off a completely different car (and thus with different spec gear)?

Second question, I bought one of the speedo cable clips, but I actually see two possible locations. Was it just a single clip that was used, or were there two? Anyone can enlighten me as to the exact routing and clip location?

Cheers,
            Chris.

Now go stand in the corner with your dunce hat on.

Funny, we used to do exactly that at work when someone screwed up our testing environment, but HR told us we weren't allowed to do it anymore...

Thanks for the kind words. I'm "new"-ish to this group, in that I don't post very often, but am certainly aware that it is not the most welcoming place on the planet (I've had my KR for over 20 years, and the same online personalities still play out...). I'm certainly not new to the internet though, and so I don't let trolls, snipes and plain unfriendliness get my goat...

Anyway, 'nuff said...back to stories about cars!

(For anyone interested, my KR is currently in the shop getting a mechanical makeover - steering box, PS pump and Ram, Master cylinder and booster all getting rebuilt. She'll be all priced up for The Great Race in June, Rhode Island to North Dakota).

Good news that it was recovered before being completely stripped. A special place in hell for anyone who would do this to such a gorgeous car!

https://www.autoblog.com/photos/stolen-1967-ford-mustang-shelby-gt500/#slide-2380136

Chris.

Hi all,

Finally going to glue down the Ram Air Seal on my KR. Any tips on the best adhesive to use?

Cheers,
            Chris, #3566.

Another thread on air filters disappeared here recently. There didn't seem to be anything contentious in the thread whatsoever, and actually some good information. Is it possible that there ae glitches in the server? Some 'bot that accidentally deletes threads based on some keyword match?

Chris.

Nice - I miss my "Ring-around-the-pony"! Maybe time for me to get on it...

Chris.

Mr. Gaines has great advice.  My 428CJ was about impossible to start after a drive, short (5 minute) shutdown and attempt at a restart.  Embarrassing to be getting gas, telling people about the car, hop in it and........barely cranks.  I finally woke up and set the timing correctly and the hot start issue and about three other issues, all vanished.  Check the timing, and then check it again.  Then move on to other possibilities.   

After quite some discussions about "correct" versus "best" initial timing - interested what your setting was?

Are you referring to the "Dash Bezel"? Many years ago I got a quote Robert at Chrome Tech USA for re-chroming my dash bezel. I never did go ahead, so can't comment on whether they are good (and you need to source and install your own wood-grain). I got a re-pop part, always looks glaringly wrong to me as there is no chrome around the pony. Let me know if you do find a good source for re-chroming - I still have my original sitting in a box waiting to be re-done...

Robert Chrome Tech usa call if you like 608-274-9811 between 10 am - 10 pm cst.  rshebilske <rshebilske@sbcglobal.net>



Chris.