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Did I miss something, did 1967 Shelby GT 500's come with external oil cooler factory or is this a "Day 2" type of add on?

Thank you Bob. Helps with my decision in what direction to go.

What is the consensus/opinion on using some sort of a heat/sound mat like Dynamat,Killmat...etc on a street driven Shelby Mustang, 4 speed big block car. I have both boots on the shifter and I'm ready install new carpeting. Thoughts?

Yep. At the beginning of the each driving season I double checked/torque on all my suspension items on my Tiger and check the Lugnuts before each drive. I used to have powered-coated American Siliverstones (Real magnesium Wheels) on the Tiger that used to back off on the lugs. Because being mag wheels, I retired them and now they are wall art.

Terry
#504

That is what I thought. Thank you all for the info. Won't be my last question so I appreciate all the info/help.

Terry
#504

Great. Is the lugnut opening suppose to look so "mushroomed" like in the picture?

Hmmm, the other photos didn't upload. It's for a Kelsey Hayes Magstar.

Reaching out to the experts, I believe I have the original set of rims on my 1967 Shelby mustang and I noted that the Lugnut hole seems to mushroom out because of the current lugnuts that were used on the car, is this correct? (yes I know the tires are old and they will be replaced when car is running)

Thank you for your help

#504
Terry

Thank you all for the info. I'm getting down to the end of putting this car back together and the info I glean from this site helps tremendously. I will have more questions I'm sure in the near future. Again, thank you.

I'm repainting all the interior panels on my 1967 Shelby from Black to parchment which is original to the car (PO painted everything black) so my question after doing some research on this site and the internet, I'm coming up empty on what people do for the upper panels that has the venting/grills. Are you removing the grills and restoring them and using the Easyoff and cleaning separately or restoring with the vents installed and just taping off around the metal? If you removing them, best way to re-install the vents onto the interior panel? I believe the aftermarket ones are plastic so I don't want to go down that path if I don't have to.

1967 GT 500 #504 - Moss Green with Parchment interior

Thank you in advanced.

Terry

Caption read:
Carroll and Sue Shelby (Dave MacDonalds wife Sherry just climbing out of the passenger side) - Photo taken by David Friedman in 1963 at the Nassau Governors Cup Race in the Bahamas

That Tiger is still around. A friend of mine owns the 55 Tiger and he restored it a few years ago.

more pictures

Update and of course more questions. I blew apart the front nose piece because it looked pretty bad and I didn't know f the hardware was correct. The screens were held in by small wood screws with washers and up by the headlight buckets allen head screws were used, is this correct? I looked at various books including the 1967 Shelby exploded view manual (Not much help in regard to the front nose piece) and I need a little help with what was used for hardware. As you can see the nose piece is in pretty shape.

First I would like to thank everybody for the info on the two piece nose for the 1967 Shelby's. It help me a lot in getting the front nose squared away. From the enlarging the holes in back of the inboard light buckets to the color or lack of color on the rivets.

So I thought I would start another thread on the two piece nose because I have more questions about detail of the 2 piece nose and I didn't want to clog up the info on on the first thread unless the moderator deems the following questions are OK to move to the original post on two piece noses.

So here are my observations and questions and note I've researched on this site about more detail on the two piece nose and also reviewed the 1967 Shelby GT250/GT500 Master assembly manual but still have questions.

In my original post I thought the vertical bracket that holds the inboard lights was split and someone welded the two pieces back together but cleaning everything up, it was not split in two but welded at one time to the triangle brace on the horizontal bar that the fiberglass nose piece rivets to. Based on the pictures on the original thread, it should have not been welded to that piece, correct?

I ordered the AMK rivet kit for the Shelby nose and it comes with 15 rivets, Where do all the rivets go, my nose only has 3, two on/in opening of the upper grill and one on the lower valence  holding the two pieces of the nose together.

On the early 2 piece slanted grills, was there a U-shaped rubber used on the edge of the grills?

The finish of the black paint on the on all brackets I assume was a satin black? Gloss or satin on the headlight buckets that hold the bulbs?

Again, thank you for your help.

Terry

#504 1967 Shelby GT 500