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Great question.  I purchased my '68 GT500 for $3000 in 1977.  It has been huge source of joy for 47 years.  Every element has ben the very best money can buy.  Including a brand new, unassembled, side oiler engine built by Roush in '79 to mirror the Lemans winning GT40.  When it came time for a money-no-option, full restoration 20 years ago the brake line choice was clear, Classic Tube. The fit is perfect. Perhaps more important, both the nut and tube are stainless.  No worries of a soft, carbon steel nut rotting in place on a either the master or wheel cylinders.  The trick is, necessary to use nickel anti seize on both the treads and surfaces between the flare and nut.  Or they will gall and prevent proper tightening.  Just this summer, I took the car out of storage after 14 years. A full inspection found no flaws or leaks anywhere.  Last Saturday, a douchebag cut me off in heavy traffic. The perfect brakes prevented a serious crash.

Etiquette dictates there is a proper way to do this.  Discover who the attorney was for the gentleman that passed.  Essentially, who drew up his will.  Then, contact that attorney to reach out to the heirs.

My close friend and car enthusiast passed suddenly with no will.  The descending vultures. including relatives he despised, reinforces my disdain for humanity.

In the late '70s while working at Ford T&C I spent my free time hanging out at a couple of the more successful engine builders in Livonia.  Was told the benefit of using the turkey pan was to keep the intake charge cool as possible.

I think you are mixing up two different pan terms. The Turkey pan is normally used to describe a enclosure around the carb which resembles a thanksgiving turkey pan. It is seen mostly used on competition Cobras to keep the cooler air from the hood scoop near the carb . By contrast the sheet metal heat shield underneath the intake is to keep oil away from the high temperature at the bottom of the intake heat riser crossover. The bottom of the intake becomes so hot (not cool)from the heat riser crossover that the oil can break down and burn leaving a coke deposit residue.

I've seen the carb insulator barrier you describe, not knowing what it was called.  The lifter galley pan used on Clevelands and FEs was also called a turkey pan within Ford engine manufacturing plants.  Combined with blocking off the crossover is effective in reducing intake manifold temperature.  Objective being, an attempt at
 suppressing detonation.  Today, air gap intake manifolds seem to fill that role. 

In the late '70s while working at Ford T&C I spent my free time hanging out at a couple of the more successful engine builders in Livonia.  Was told the benefit of using the turkey pan was to keep the intake charge cool as possible.

Agree with all mentioned.
That said, the Monte Carlo bar is perhaps the most useful upgrade for a "driver" caliber car.
The straight bar fits perfect with original dual point distributor and dual quad intake.

I'll pass.  Only venture where my HK is welcome.

Interesting thread with many sound suggestions.  All I can offer is my own experience.  I owned a '68 with a 302 prepared using the period, Muscle Parts program. Built as the stage 5, Dominator kit. Advertised as 155 HP increase.  Essentially a 302 block, 351W 4V heads cut for GT40 valves, C90Z-6109 pop-up forged pistons,  Boss 302 balancer, dual point distributor, C7FE-6250-A "LeMans" cam. Rotating assembly was properly balanced.  The car was an absolute blast to drive. Easily lay waste to a 396 Camaro. Other than the tube headers and Holley carb, appeared stock. I am in the process of building a clone with an aluminum block. What's not to like about a Ford that turns heads and backs it up with impressive HP?

I almost botched a paint job recently due to solvent pop.  Laid down 3 clear coats exactly within window of doing base coat.  Bubbles soon appeared, collapsing into tiny craters. Learned it's not an exact science regarding time intervals.  Blocked the clear with 600 grit to both remove craters and orange peal in clear.  Laid down 4 more coats of clear without issue.   The depth, and gloss were spectacular.  Later learned that's what custom painters call, flow coating.  Used an orbital palm sander to 8000 grit Trizac, followed by a Flex buffer with Sonax polish.  Net result is show stopping.

I ship freight most weeks.  Have had every imaginable experience.  Avoid brokers.  You have absolutely no idea who will be handling the item.  Even insured is impossible to collect against loss.
Of late, have been doing shipping online with YRC.  Their online rates are 1/2 anyone else.  Critical to crate freight to sustain a 5 foot drop.  Have insurance for full amount.  Purchase the Tip & Tell. and impact meters sold by McMaster-Carr and U-Line.  Just their impression being seen encourages safe handling. 
https://www.uline.com/Grp_332/Damage-Indicators?keywords=Tip-N-Tell+Indicators

Thanks for the great, first hand feed back.  Thinking we had done due diligence in choosing a positively reviewed transport company, discovered there are fake review sites run by scammers.

I have a collector vehicle ready now to be shipped from VT to Rapid City, SD.  Knowing this business is a minefield of crooks, am dumbstruck at the scams being perpetrated.  Will only consider owner/operators with verifiable, positive references.

Yes, I used the search function here first discovering no answers.

I have used the Koni Special D shocks on my '68 since purchase in '77.  As bought, it has Gabriel HiJackers.  I don't think those were original?
Anyhow, the Koni shocks are just fine, but can't compare to modern, gas shocks.  I guess since you're concerned with concours nonsense, perhaps a performance gas shock would be a better choice?

As  a manufacturer, my company attends SEMA each year to support distributors.  I spend the majority of time researching trade expertise for my personal projects.  Ford has two major exhibits.  In the main hall is a display of both new vehicles, and an impressive lineage of classics from which retro designs pay respect.  Outside is a large track surrounded by Ford Performance exhibits and Ford affiliates like Roush Racing.  The track exhibit is a profoundly asinine display of near constant drifting that only impress a 14 year old.   Both exhibits had electric vehicles,  Nobody, and I mean nobody gave a shit.  A rotted Fairmont would have got more attention.  I suspect mgmt is looking at the future and seeing SEMA is not a gateway.

I don't get it.  My '68 GT500 hasn't been registered is at least 20 years,  In pristine condition, sits covered in the man cave along with some other interesting cars.  I have no intent to drive it anytime soon, busy with more fun projects.  The car is not in any registry with very few people knowing it exists.  I've keep it out of sight for 45 years.  If I drop dead today, certain there would be exclamations of "BARN FIND!" by some bottom-feeding twit.  You missed the bus when these were piss cheap in the '70s.  The car is not lost, and its future is well accounted for.

Yes!  I exclusively us Loctite PST for threaded, fluid fittings.  Is a non hardening, PTFE paste.  Works flawless for such applications.  Critical to remove all contaminates form taped holes.
Also, retap threads with a precision, ground thread machinist thread tap.   Never, never use unground hardware store thread taps.
It maybe sacrilegious but I gave up building collector car engines with vintage fasteners.  I exclusively use ARP stainless steel threaded fasteners.  Purchase lengths to yield maximum thread engagement for hole depth.  We have all stared in horror of a broken water pump bolt or seized, FE exhaust manifold bolt.  Never again.