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I had exactly the same issue on #2751. It turned out to be due to warped drums.

Ok - so, only three years later...

Pulled the crank damper off and I have (hopefully...) attached photos of it.  I am as certain as I can be that this is an original part to this engine (I have owned the car 40 years now...).  Part number appears to be C7ZE.

I did some checks and it appears that the damper ring has not slipped.

David

Ordered them from Branda in the end. Should be here in 3-4 days 😁

[quote I will bring my Shelby GT500 67 ...
[/quote]

@kent - if you are near the Porsche Curves look out for a Brittany Blue GT350 without stripes parked up. It would be good to meet!

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. If I'd had more time I might have found Ranger parts at a Ford dealer but work and family take priority!

David.

I think I could have some here. I will maybe also be in Le Mans, let me take a look for the drums.

That's very kind of you. I actually need the drums on the car in order to make it down there - it's not really drivable at the moment. I now have a call in to Branda to see if they can ship some over in time.

What car are you bringing to Le Mans?

David

I don't think the drum is cracked as it 'rings' true if I tap it with a hammer. I did think about a bent axle flange but I haven't bashed it against a kerb or similar.

I've just had the axle bearings replaced which in theory might have caused a bend in the flange but the snatching brake moved with the drum when I swapped sides of the car.

In less than two weeks I intend to take #2751 to the Le Mans Classic event in France (I am based in the UK). While preparing the car for the trip I have discovered that one of the rear brake drums is warped causing the brake to 'snatch' on that side.

I have calls in to 3 UK parts suppliers but I'm not hopeful of them stocking 10x2.5 inch drums as Shelby mustangs and Fairlane wagons are rare in this country. NPD has them but shipping is more expensive than the parts and there's no guarantee of getting them in time. Brands doesn't publish a phone number.

Any suggestions before I have to leave the car behind?

Thanks

David

#2751

Rebuilt the rear brakes with correct Fairlane cylinders and new linings  - big improvement!🙂.

Filled the gas tank £90 (~$115) 😕 in preparation for trip out to The Classic Motor Barn in the Cotswolds (UK) tomorrow 🙂

Just replaced the rear axle seals Saturday on our 68 GT/CS. They probably were the originals. They are marked C7OW-1177-L    7-4   N.S. with a rectangular FoMoCo with red sealer around the circumference of the seal. N.S. = National Seal, National used red sealer, Chicago Rawhide ( CR ) used green. I don't think your seals would have been assembly line seals as the oval FoMoCo has been xx out. I have seen this in the past on parts produced by an OEM supplier but with the car company's logo xx or ground off in an OEM box. Example, Bendix disc pads with the FORD logo xx out in a Bendix box. And just not only on Ford parts but other car companies also. Most likely they were manufactured to be assembly line or service parts that ended up being over runs by National or that Ford didn't need at that time and they couldn't be sold to other part suppliers with the FoMoCo logo so they xx it out IMO.

That makes perfect sense Rodney. Many thanks for the detailed response.

David

Rodney

I noticed the right rear brake was locking up even with light pedal pressure, so I removed the wheel and drum and found a light covering of gear oil over everything including the friction surfaces. Time for new axle seals!

The old seals were difficult to remove but once out they appear to be a leather seal rather than rubber and have embossed on them what appears to be a Ford logo that has been subsequently obscured for some reason - both sides the same. I wonder if these were the original factory seals?

The throttle linkage on #2751 has been modified to add a spherical joint at the carb end, but the rest of the linkage is stock. The spring bracket is a little different to the one shown above but looks similarly goofy!

It has a small anti-rotation tab along the edge, but I don't see how this could possibly prevent rotation.

Hopefully I have attached a picture that shows what I mean.

David

 "...the HIPO sticker [was] not typically used."

Does this mean that the white and blue COBRA sticker was used on most, but not all '67 GT350s?  Did some come from SA with the 289 High Performance sticker on the air cleaner lid?

Which one would you expect to see on #2751?

Guidance here much appreciated.

David.

Fantastic detailed response as always. I'll get my new one painted blue before I install it.

Many thanks for your replies.

David

I notice in the picture of the engine bay of #2645 that the thermostat housing is not painted. Most pictures I've seen of 'restored' engine show the housing painted blue.

Is this another variation or running change in production?  What would you expect to see on #2751 from the factory?

Many thanks for any information you can share.

David.

"...slow learner..."!!! 😮  A bit rude! 😂

I am not using the cork valley gaskets, and I will try some of the other suggestions.

Thanks for everyone's help.

David

Thanks for the advice on silicone around the water ports only. Also I wasn't aware of the de rated torque values! 😳. I have been struggling to get mine to seal resulting in vacuum leaks all along the visible top edge of the gasket between the head and intake manifold. If I run a bead of water along the joint at idle much of the water immediately disappears.

I have checked the mating surfaces for flatness and tried 3 different FelPro gaskets but no improvement.

I've been recommended Victor Reinz gaskets and they look better for my situation. They have much more 'meat' around the water passage cutouts, and they seem a little thicker and more pliable.

I won't get to fit them until the weather breaks but I'm hopeful...

David