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Off road terrain? Hmmmm

Looks he has a couple other cars to scam people with...these people are just irritating

I hadn't thought of intentionally off-roading mine, at least not sober, or awake, or any other time I can think of : )

*** POSTED FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY ***

https://norfolk.craigslist.org/ctd/d/norfolk-1967-ford-mustang-shelby-gt350/7782367112.html

1967 Ford Mustang Shelby GT350
Offered by:  — (276) 284-9258 — $79,999

Don't miss out on this stunning 1967 Ford Mustang Shelby GT350 Base in a gorgeous red exterior color!  With only 3,065 miles on the odometer, this luxury car is ready to conquer the road ahead.  Powered by a V8 engine and equipped with RWD, this GT350 offers both power and performance for all your adventures. Whether you're cruising through the city or tackling off-road terrain, this Shelby can handle it all.  Worried about the vehicle's history? Don't be! We provide comprehensive vehicle history reports to ensure peace of mind for our customers.  Financing options are available, and you can also take advantage of our trade-in service to upgrade to this beauty.  Want to test drive this Mustang? Swing by our dealership or give us a call at (276) 284-9258 to schedule a test drive.  Can't make it to the dealership? No problem! We offer vehicle shipping for your convenience. Don't wait any longer - inquire about this Shelby Base today!

There is a signature on both visors. The fender is phenomenal and looks gorgeous down. There is a little bitty chip right on the edge of the door, a little spider crack. Nothing stands out on the spoiler. There are little surface scuffs on the back deck, and there is a minor scratch on the paint.



Year: 1967
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang Shelby GT350
VIN: 67200F2A01429
Stock #: SM01429
Condition: Used
Mileage: 3,065
Exterior: Blue
Body: Coupe
Transmission: manual
Engine: V8
Drivetrain: rwd

Tailored Service: Our team is ready to offer personalized assistance.
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Shop with Confidence: Enjoy our 14-day money-back guarantee (up to 100 miles).
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What parts store direct replacement screw in fuel filters are folks using in their GT 350s these days? Not looking for historical accuracy here, just something that works and at least kind of looks the part.

Thanks -

Are you using the brass adapter block that goes into the carb like what was original or not . Consequently there are two different filter type alternatives . Both have a aftermarket direct equivalent.

Yes, the large reducer. It's about the same diameter as the filter can.

I know what you mean. For others reading FYI it is not a reducer but a adaptor to adapt the course threads of the typical Ford carb filter FG 15 to the fine threads of the Holley bowl inlet which are fine threads. Some owners who don't care about the original look eliminate the adapter and use a FG14 filter to screw directly into the Holley Bowl.

Got ya - I just assumed reducer due to the size - thanks Bob.

What parts store direct replacement screw in fuel filters are folks using in their GT 350s these days? Not looking for historical accuracy here, just something that works and at least kind of looks the part.

Thanks -

Are you using the brass adapter block that goes into the carb like what was original or not . Consequently there are two different filter type alternatives . Both have a aftermarket direct equivalent.

Yes, the large reducer. It's about the same diameter as the filter can.

What parts store direct replacement screw in fuel filters are folks using in their GT 350s these days? Not looking for historical accuracy here, just something that works and at least kind of looks the part.

Thanks -

I have adjusted my Ford 4spd shifter as mentioned with a drill bit through the holes in neutral.  It usually will shift just fine, but every once in a while after reversing out of the garage, the shifter gets stuck in neutral and won't go into any forward gear.   
Anyone know what may be happening here?
Kurt.

Try being being more deliberate about the shift out of reverse into neutral i.e. push forward gently until the shifter hits the stop before letting it spring back to center. If this resolves the issue then I'd say a minor adjustment on the reverse shift rod should help you, it did for me. I had a tendency to just push the shifter until it flopped over as soon as it could - resulting in the same condition you describe.

Just for the record (in case we're counting or something) I too got a vm recently from a number tracing back to the same outfit and individual... I didn't engage.

So does anyone know of a source for better quality repop panels?

Sometimes it's hard to get a comment from folks on repro parts around here so I'll offer my by-no-means expert opinion.

I think you'll find them all to be a compromise of one sort or another, it's up to you what you're willing to accept. I would've had my originals restored but for the cost and no guarantee of outcome held me back.

I looked at TMI, Mustang Exchange and Dashes Direct. I landed on the DD as the lesser of the 3 evils, yours and/or other opinions may, and likely will differ.

https://www.mustangmarket.com/door.htm

Do Mustang Market panels have masonite (hardboard) backing?  Has anyone tried these?

Of the 3 manufactures I tried these were the least like originals in appearance imo, though as I recall they claim otherwise, and quality issues beyond panel flatness. They wouldn't take them back and I couldn't/wouldn't use them.

I don't remember if they were masonite backed or not but I could dig them out and look if you like.

[1) over the New London CT ferry w/trailer, 2) over the Bridgeport CT ferry 3) over the Whitestone from the Bronx 4) From points West Over the George Washington Bridge to the Bronx then over the Throgs Neck Bridge w/trailer 5) through the Midtown Tunnel w/trailer 6) from points South over the Outerbridge Crossing to Staten Island to the Verrazano Bridge to the Van Wick w/trailer.]

...
Undeterred, I wrote an article  for the Mustang Times called "Getting There" where on 6 weekends 8 months before the show, I took my Boss 302 and I drove 1) over the New London CT ferry w/trailer, 2) over the Bridgeport CT ferry 3) over the Whitestone from the Bronx 4) From points West Over the George Washington Bridge to the Bronx then over the Throgs Neck Bridge w/trailer 5) through the Midtown Tunnel w/trailer 6) from points South over the Outerbridge Crossing to Staten Island to the Verrazano Bridge to the Van Wick w/trailer.
...

I've done all of those routes save for the NL ferry, and not in the Shelby, and not towing a trailer because that would be, well - just crazy - like hiding behind the chainsaws crazy : ) Some of those trips had to be brutal.

Slightly off topic but closely related - I've always wondered, and some of the images in this post raise it again, should the taillights be (i.e. intended to be from SA) horizontally aligned lens center parallel to panel center, top lines parallel or bottom lines parallel - I've seen all 3. And was the mounting kind of hit-and-miss at SA or mostly due to past and present owners during some sort of repair/refurbishment?

Awesome.

These are a pretty typical field crimp tool used across various industries, automotive included. The nib part of the jaw (closest to the hinge) crimps the wire in the connector/terminal, the middle die crimps the "insulation support" if the terminal is so fitted (a metal sleeve between the plastic insulation and the wire barrel), the end is a wire cutter... the worst ever conceived. The cutter is essentially a single cutting edge mating with a flat surface - bad, bad, bad.

I'm pretty sure these are still widely available. This pair is made by Burndy.

I can't imagine how many hundreds of thousands of terminals and connectors I've squeezed with this and other pairs now lost to time... and the sea lol. I started using them in the 70's and I'm fairly certain they would have been around when these cars were built. Can't comment if used by SA or not.

I think by corrections the starter of this means, some have mis-information here and there, that's all....I have looked up my previous cars and friends cars and found errors most likely due to people not updating, and some missed. Not blaming just honest errors.

+1

Got my registry today - awesome! Somehow the wrong photo was used - bummer.

Thanks to all involved to produce and distribute the book. It's a difficult and tedious task I'm sure.

EDIT: Maybe a running updates and corrections topic? For example, at the time of the submittal (3+ years ago) #0066 did not have a correct for '67 rear axle housing and carrier... it does now.