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Thanks for the replies. 

I'll look into the range of Ford Corporate Blue.  I thought it looked a little lighter but I guess that could be shade variation (and my eyes!).  I'll try some different shades and  PPG Delstar DAR 13358 and see how it goes.
Cheers

Does anyone know the correct color code for the blue SN60 Paxton supercharger?  I have reached out to Paradise Wheels but haven't received a response as yet.

If you want the model shown in the ad this is the company selling the GT500 they show.
It's $1,600 https://www.model-space.com/us/build-ford-mustang-shelby-full-kit.html
The GT500 is out of stock but the GT40 is available - 2 year subscription $65 a month. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sT1dBGxCoAg
https://www.model-space.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs_2019/Ford_GT_boost_web.pdf

BUYER BEWARE:

That ad is typical of the bait and switch Chinese. They show you a detailed 1/8 scale model that costs $100s of dollars hoping you won't read the fine print where they are sending you a 1/32 $2.99 POS die cast.

Anybody know what their "about us" page really says?

ABOUT-US
Funpinpin是領先世界的專家，齊聚最酷小工具的採購作業。

...........blah blah blah

我們在此恭候！

According to Google Translate, the 'About Us' text reads: 

"It is the world's leading experts, gathered for the purchase of the coolest gadgets. We are looking for, creating, manufacturing and shipping innovative research and development products around the clock. In this way, you don't need to spend days researching on your own, and you can guarantee to buy the coolest things. Our team of experts can help you stay ahead and always use cutting-edge technology in one fell swoop. Join the ranks of our product revolution, let us challenge the infinite possibilities in your life together, and help you bring amazing eyes to the world.
All the products on our official website are purchased by our company from reputable manufacturers. We store in the warehouse before packaging, and personally test to ensure that the performance is intact. We find the coolest products in the industry for you from all over the world. We want to share this extraordinary experience with you and provide you with the best things we have discovered along the way. Our inventory is very limited, and the discount is only a short-term plan, so please pay attention to our special discounts and free products. You may have come to this page via our awesome social media application that supports 24 hours a day. We want to share the best shopping experience with you and provide you with the best things we have found. If you have any suggestions for our website, please contact us via the following email: mail: szusy54640612@outlook.com.  We are here waiting!"

I would be cautious - The pictured model is a DeAgostini brand from memory.  They are VERY expensive...

Thanks Dave,

Sounds like a plan - I will keep an eye out.

Cheers

Stan

6S1534 in the early 70's (pic courtesy of previous owner Fred Rice), and now, back in original Ivy Green.

Thanks Dave,

Denny thought that might be the case too.  It's interesting if they are from a similar era. I'm curious, but even reading this thread, I guess there could be all sorts of reasons for changing/replacing them. Did you end up getting replacements for 6S1757? 

I don't see many good original ones on offer.  If anyone has a set (or part thereof...) let me know.

In the meantime I'll polish them up and keep using them.

Cheers

Stan

Hi all,  This is a timely post. 

I have been looking at the seat belts in 6S1534 and they are Impact labels (but with a cadmium finish and not chrome).  Also, the "impact" labels look different to the ones I have seen in this thread.  They have "American Safety F4077 Model No. CB-500XL" on one side and "IMPACT Conforms to federal motor vehicle safety standards and all state regulations" on the other.

These are the small labels.  I assumed there may be a set of larger 'CS IMPACT' labels that are missing?  Would that be right?  The leather pads are also missing. Denny (6S1568) is helping me out with those.

I have cleaned the belts but the snap hooks, latch and tongue are all well used. They are next on the list for a clean and polish. I was initially under the impression that the fittings should be chrome rather than a cadmium finish? In all other respects the belts seem to fit the descriptions for the later 66 cars.  There isn't any other branding, although there are some other stamped numbers including "G 9" ,  "A.S.E.", "MS 22013" and "MS22003-1" on the fittings.

I would appreciate any thoughts from the group.

Cheers

Stan

1) 6S1534
2) O (open)
3) C (full square web with holes for leather)
4) I (Impact)
5) L ( long hook)
6) D (dull finish)

Thanks Cory,

I'm not sure which needle it has, but will certainly head down to the garage shortly and take a look!

Cheers
Stan

Thanks guys,

I was hoping that if I could get the glass off I could just tighten it a little, but I'll keep an eye out at the meets and online. I imagine they may be a little harder to come by here (I'm in Australia - I probably should have led with that!) but you never know as there is a decent following for Shelby's here!  I'll get in touch with Phil following the Christmas break.

Is there a date code stamp or other means to confirm originality on the tacho's?  It has the black 'crinkled' rear cup and the front finger dial, and rear cup fastener nut look right, as does the mounting bracket. Its a 9K unit with the Cobra emblem at the bottom of the dial.

Cheers

Stan

The red line indicator on the tacho on 6S1534 is a little loose and moves itself with vibration from the car, eventually dropping to the '6 o'clock' position.  The tacho itself functions perfectly and it appears to me to have all the features of an original unit (is there a definitive way to tell?).

In order to fix the red line needle, it seems the unit has to be pulled apart from the rear and I assume you pull it apart, working your way through to the front in order to get access to tighten the needle.  I had a look at other posts to see if  there was any articles or discussions with some details about the internals, but cannot find anything other than discussions about sending them off for full restorations or wiring conversions.  I'm wondering if anyone has had theirs apart, any pics of the insides or any insights into hidden things to watch out for during disassembly and reassembly?

A full rebuild is an option, however I thought if it is a straight forward thing to fix, I might be able to try.  I have been emboldened by recent successes on restoring some other bits and pieces that are detailed elsewhere on this very supportive forum!   

Cheers

Stan

I was doing some research for my car and came across this thread. There are a couple of things that may line up with at least some of your Dads memory.

I have 6S1534.  It was previously owned by Fred Rice and was in an accident.  It also had (and still has) the chrome magnum wheels. It is an Ivy Green car, but Fred and his mate Clem La Chance panted it white with the blue stripes in the early 70's. It is not a Herz car.

It was subsequently returned to Ivy Green which it still is today.

Hi all,

Firstly - apologies for the lengthy post, but given the guidance and advice, I wanted to say thanks and share the results which I'm really happy with.  I also shared this on the Concours forum, so apologies for the double up, but I wanted to say thanks to everyone as the advice was invaluable to a person starting out like me.

It has taken me a few weekends but I finally got the heater box and demister tubes done.  I was able to clean the light rust with Citric Acid and steel wool (Doug on the concourse fourm was right - I was amazed), and used Evaporust for the ones that need a bit more effort like the heater fan basket. The parts came up really nice  - even the little balancing weights on the fan blades. I can clearly see "Torrington" and "408 Air Rotor" on the bottom.  I elected to coat them in a satin finish clear coat to prevent further rusting but keep the 'bare metal' look.  Thanks to the forum tips, I was able to reuse the original heater element including the plastic retainers and the original rubber gasket for the heater motor.  The small retainer clips on the motor shaft are still there and I'm just waiting on replacement wires from Virginia Classic Mustang to arrive to complete the motor itself as mine had been cut and rejoined.

The heater box itself came up a treat (pic 3).  I was able to fix the cracks.  It took a while, but I also rebuilt a part of the broken edging, including the inside edge 'trough' (pics 1 and 2) and the small indent where one of the retainer clips goes using Q-bond and a Dremel. Its expensive stuff, but I cannot fault the results.

I couldn't save the Plenum, however Phil Beresford supplied me with a replacement original, so all good there with just a Scotchguard treatment.

Bob Gaines was right about the demister tubes, they are VERY fragile!  The tubes themselves are in good condition.  There was a couple of pieces broken from the cardboard top, however when I (very tentatively - thanks Bob) removed them, the broken parts dropped out of the bottom of the tubes.  It appears they fell inside and sat there for who knows how long. I set about putting the cardboard jigsaw back together and the one missing piece was replaced after a '54 year old piece of cardboard' donation from my old (and un-salvageable) plenum which was a great color match.  I cut the plastic ends off a Scott Drake set to make a perfect template to ensure it all went back together correctly.  A clean up, light dusting with paint for cover (pic 4) and Scotchguard later and they came up pretty well.

For the demister tubes reinstall, I plan to use the Scott Drake plastic ends that I made for the templates and slide them over the tubes to provide support for the cardboard where it hangs from the dashboard - particularly where the retaining clips go in.  Essentially the plastic distributes the weight evenly and the original cardboard just rests on top of it with the retainers holding it all in place. You cannot see them and as nothing is stuck together, its easily removed in future. I figure it will reduce the strain on the flimsy cardboard - particularly around the retainer hole area - and hopefully help it last another 50 years.  I checked with the retainer clips and it all fits.

Now just need to keep an eye out for the postman so I can finish the motor wiring.

Cheers - and once again thank you for the invaluable guidance and advice.

Stan

Thanks for the detailed advice and tips. Greatly appreciated.
I'm one of the lucky ones to still be working in the current environment. I'll get into it on the weekend.
Cheers

I'm rebuilding the heater box on 6S1534 and was hoping for some guidance/insights.

The box itself is in pretty good shape with just a couple of small cracks in it and a small piece missing where the heater hoses enter (Pic 3). It still has the FoMoCo stamping on it (pic 4). The interior foam has all but disintegrated and the internal metal boxing with the flap that sits adjacent to the heater core (Pic 2) has light surface rust and some minor pitting but is still fully functional. The plenum chamber is made of cardboard material but I think is beyond saving.
The demister tubes are a paper type material with cardboard where they attach to the top of the dashboard.  Interestingly they are square shaped (Pic 1) and not round like the reproduction parts I have seen online. They don't have any rips or tears and aside from being dusty seem ok. I'm fine to re-use them but am curious as to whether they are a genuine part or not.
I was wondering about the following:

1. How do I best go about cleaning the internal metal box & flap unit? Light sanding gets alot of the surface rust off but I cant get into the tiny areas around the flap rod.
2. What is the best way to repairs the minor cracks in the heater box itself?  (see pics 3 and 4)
3. How is the foam held in place?  Adhesive or double sided tape etc?
4. Has anyone seen these square type of demister hoses before - are they original ones or replacements, possibly done many years ago?  Does anyone have any pics of the real things so I can compare?

Appreciate any advice or insights