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Hah, that is pretty bad -- made me laugh!

My shifting had become more and more sluggish over the years, so I decided to take it apart.  After a serious cleaning and re-lubricating, it works super smooth, however, the shifter sits to the right (3rd and 4th) when in neutral.  Is that correct?  I would expect it to sit in the middle (between 1st and 2nd), but it's been stopping where I left it for so long that I can't remember the actual resting neutral position.

From Daniel Carpenter's website, it looks like this is the one for the 4-speed:
https://www.npdlink.com/product/boot-shifter-lower/105646

And the one I originally posted is for the 3-speed.  The 4-speed is definitely a good 3/4" deeper, but they otherwise look the same.

Does that sound right Bob?  The one from Branda doesn't look like either of these.

As far as what I read, the parts book shows C6ZZ 7E138-C is for the SB, with the dimensions being 1/16" larger in width and depth, which would obviously be inconsequential.  Perhaps they originally made two and quickly consolidated?  Or perhaps the book is dead wrong. 

Excellent - thank you!

Anyone have a source for a 67 GT500 lower shift boot?  Part book shows C7ZZ 7E138-B, unique size for 67/68 Mustangs with 4 speed and 390/428 engines.

This looks like it could work, but would appreciate any insight:
https://www.npdlink.com/product/boot-shifter-lower/105644

I've installed a GearVendors overdrive on 3 vehicles.  They work great and install is fairly simple, but besides the price, I've run into 2 issues:

• As roddster mentioned, the GV unit is much longer, so much longer that I've had to use pinion shims to raise the angle of the rear-end more than once.
• While it shifts well, at some point in time, they had a real electronics problem with their control box.  It assumed 12V, and once you gave it 12V, if you then dropped to somewhere between ~5V and ~11V IIRC, it would go into a bad state and stop responding/shifting.  So you'd crank the car to start, sometimes the voltage to the control box would drop below 11V, and then it wouldn't engage after you started the car.  Customer support at GearVenders told me it had been reported multiple times, but they didn't have a solve, and it drove me nuts until I figured it out.  Easily solved with a relay, because when it drops below coil voltage, it turns off the box completely.  I gave them the details when I figured it out, so I hope they've fixed it by now.

By spec case do you mean special in some way?  Or are you talking about the gears?

Is your car a GT350 or a GT500?

Auto or 4-speed?  (Do you want the original rear gear ratio or something different?)

Do you know the San Jose build date?

GT500
4-speed
Prefer 3.89
San Jose build date January 67

Need to do a flush.  I know the formulas have changed over time -- what do folks use nowadays?

Yes on center section only.

Assume they're all coded C4AW 4025-B, open to date codes, but preferably want one that's plausible for the car.

Looking for a clean 67 9" carrier assembly.

Looking for a 67 speedometer cable for 4 speed manual.

I'd be interested in Jeff's sound deadlining reference.  Jeff?

I spent a while finding one the past couple of years.  The big price difference is the Ford 9" diff mount.  The universal ones are all over the place for $1500-$2000.

The one's that mount directly to the Ford 9"s are tough to find, and while I didn't pay anywhere close to $7000, the last one I saw sell (that I didn't purchase) was around $3000.

I usually drive it once or twice a week, so regularly sits 3-4 days or more between uses.

These last few weeks where I've been running into it more frequently, as in stopping it for 10 minutes and starting it again, is what had me surprised.  Maybe I got a particularly funky batch of gas or something...

Doug, when you say prime the mechanical fuel pump (versus the carb), I assume you mean via the electric pump.  Do the electric and manual pump work in the same system?