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Or just leave it also .

Well yeah. And I could have left that "Mommie" tattoo (on my forehead), skin tags (on my eyelids), and 5 missing teeth alone - but I got those things fixed. And now look at me!

Just messing with you, pal. I'm only here to let others know that if they want to fix those ugly hood gaps, I'm able to help. 

Another option (however not stock), would be to purchase a high quality repro hood from Stangaholics. I bought one a coupe years ago, and I can say it is the upmost best quality reproduction Shelby hood I ever owned. It has all of the metal reinforcements inside the braces, so no future hood 'bowing' issues. Something to consider...

Yes, it is another option. And you're right, it isn't original. If that's not important, and if you're doing a full body repaint, the Stang-aholic option is a less expensive alternative. I don't see them mention anything besides the latch and hinge anchor plates as far as reinforcements go. I re-use those originals plus add more stiffening in the rails. And, I can do this to a *finished painted hood. [*This obviously requires adequate masking so the finish paint has to stand up to that. A combination of liquid latex masking and tapes can usually do the job of protecting the top surface but if there are signs of existing delamination, that likely will not work.]

Check out my post in the "Services Offered" section. If you want that hood fixed permanently, . . . . . . . .

Is your 69-70 Shelby hood bowed? Most likely it is - especially if yours has a high-heat generating big block underneath it. The combined forces of spring moment, thermal shock, and age have taken their toll on that fiberglass - eventually resulting in that disturbing gap that you're sick of looking at. If you want to permanently de-arch your hood so it matches the curvature of the fenders, I can make it happen - *even if the topside of your hood already has nice paint on it (*in most cases but each hood will have to be assessed). There's a whole lot more to fixing this than these few photos reveal. And it ain't cheap. It requires major surgery - but when you add some stretch-formed structural metal inserts in there while in the process, you end up with a stronger hood, resistant to future bowing, and perfectly aligned with the fenders and cowl just like A.O.Smith intended. The underside will be as factory - all of the oozy looking cemented joints will be mimicked (but with high-strength fiberglass resin with additives), rear vent screens re-epoxied, outer edge painted with your body color, and new flat/eggshell black paint with the correct feathered edges around the perimeter. Now you can quit screwing with those old wives' tale remedies (unhooking the springs, piling on weights, etc., etc.) that DON'T WORK - and fix it once and for all.

Chris' Garage, 101 S. Rogers, Cleveland, MO 64734 (kansascarguy@gmail.com)

This is the first comprehensive Cobra registry by SAAC. Copyrighted August 1976. Softcover 8" x 11.5" - 84 pages. Cobras only - no Mustangs, Tigers, or any other Shelby vehicles. 84 pages. [The inside cover states this is the 2nd Edition - the main difference being the list of contributors included here that weren't in the first edition.]   

Lists all Cobras, by chassis number, A.C. delivery date, type, and their current owners (Yes, even their addresses!) at time of publication. "Owner unknown" and/or "Destroyed" cars notated. Includes details and then current status of cars. It's interesting to compare these entries to those in the 1987 Shelby American World Registry. 

There are two of these currently up on Amazon for $360 each. I'll sell my copy for $315 and include shipping to lower 48.

Saw it Saturday. Going to see it again this evening. I haven't done this with any movie since Star Wars - in 1977. It's really a fun movie and paints Shelby and Miles in a great light. American ingenuity and greatness on steroids. The hangar scenes at SAI are a rush - the cars! You hero members probably know whose cars they are. Anyway, if you haven't made plans yet, ...............

BTW - movie also painted Beebe as quite a major prick. I have no idea if that's true or not but I'll wait for the ensuing testimonies.

Getting questioned about why I'm selling - or why now. Go to "Concours Mustang Forum" to the "Lounge" section and click on the following post "Is the Vintage Mustang Hobby in Decline?". I replied to this two-month old thread and make it clear why I'm liquidating. Only hope I don't regret this action down the line.
Chris

Yes it works. The "Ford" script is clear glass neon (burns red) and the oval is clear glass argon (burns blue). The only "neon" colors available initially were red and blue. It wasn't until 1933 that some German scientist discovered how to make different colors using different fluorescent coatings. That's how we determined the age of the sign to be somewhere from 1929 to 1933. Obviously Ford would jump on white "neon" for their signs - it just wasn't possible until 1933.
Chris

Next week on Thursday, May24th, my thirty-eight year collection of prized porcelain gas, oil, and auto dealership signs will be auctioned off at Morphy Auctions in Denver, PA. Of the fifty or so lots of mine included in the auction, the hit of the show is my 3'x6' porcelain/neon FORD sign. Morphy has given it the highest pre-bid estimate of all 600+ lots in the entire auction. And for good reason. It may be the rarest FORD sign of this type in existence. All FORD signs feature a cobalt blue background, white FORD script, and a white oval boundary ring. The oval boundary ring on my sign is not white - it's teal in color. This is the only known time Ford Motor Company ever allowed ANYBODY to alter their logo. The sign is legit and bears the maker's mark of "Federal Brilliant Sign Co. St Louis, Mo.". Federal Brilliant was owned by Federal Electric Sign Company in Chicago - the company that raced to Paris in 1926 to secure the foreign patent rights from the French inventor to make neon signs in America. We have determined the sign dates back to 1929-1933. The sign also rates Morphy's highest grade (9.5+) - it's A-1 mint condition - no rust, chips, scars and has never taken a hit by an errant BB or pellet. It includes the sheet metal can behind the porcelain face where the transformer is housed, aged brush painted surface patina, and a stamped embossed metal emblem affixed there by the local St. Louis labor union. I bought the sign right off the dealership premises in 1981 and have a published photo of the sign hanging in place circa 1966 (you can tell by the new cars sitting in the new car lot). A jewel like this would really set off your Shelby man cave. It sure did for mine for thirty some years. If interested, go to morphyauctions.com and check out their May 24th Petroliana and Automobilia auction. Hit the "pre-bid" link and go to Lot #161. But to be sure, this sign is going to go HIGH. Morphy expects a floor fight over it. I'm praying for that big time.
Chris