Pertronix or dual points?

[deathsled]

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

I could always look for the coil you describe and get it.  They are not expensive.  At least this one wasn't.  It is 1.5 ohms which apparently is recommended for a V8 engine.

[Bob Gaines]

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

I could always look for the coil you describe and get it.  They are not expensive.  At least this one wasn't.  It is 1.5 ohms which apparently is recommended for a V8 engine.

Or take off the sticker and leave the rest alone.

[98SVT - was 06GT]

I'd go back to points. Slap the original dual point back in it. Get your condenser at NAPA - Echlin ones are said to be US made. Avoid the cheap ChiCom ones or you will be sitting by the side of the road. If you drive it 500 miles a month you only need to lift the cap once a year to check the gap. If you go that route make sure the dist and cam gear are compatible.
I've got a couple Mallory dual points lying around. One is a vintage crab cap that I bought because they fit so nice under the Monte Carlo bar. The other is a later billet one. If you go that route find the points with the X in the part number. They have stiffer springs for higher rpm work.
I've used Pertronix for years without a problem. They are less than 2 miles from my house and until they were bought out by corporate America you could walk in and get answers or buy stuff cheap. They had many problems when they first started using imported components but those days are said to be behind them.
They are very critical on getting the right voltage so make sure all your terminals - even all the grounds - are clean.
My Model A came with a Pertronix when/if it dies I've got a freshly rebuilt stock distributor in the trunk to slap in. I've even pre-installed it to test and time. BTW I also found a very rare 1929 Mallory dual point centrifugal advance distributor I'm restoring for my hot rod Model B street banger engine.

[FL SAAC]

We have run petronix for years with no issues.

I have a new kit in the box that I carry as a spare in the trunk. ( by the way we also have a "spare tire" in the trunk, you know just in case...)

What's $110 of parts in a car worth $150/250,000 .... pocket change

As far as the coil, tall one short one, yellow top no yellow on the top, 7mm wires 8 mm wires, at this point it really does not matter to me.

Not running with the big boys at the "concours" events.

We run with the kids at McDonalds as they love to point, look and touch as we drive in.

Or at any another local podunk event that they can sit and look up close what a true Shelby or "old car" is.

Meant to be driven...enjoy the ride

[deathsled]

Shelby is behaving with the replaced module.  Will see how long that lasts.  Since the last one lasted for a good six years, I am wondering why the ignition wire didn't get in the way of changing to voltage.  Or is it something that works on the module over time to eventually destroy the module due to incorrect voltage?  I am inclined toward going with the dual points system the next time around.

[Bob Gaines]

Shelby is behaving with the replaced module.  Will see how long that lasts.  Since the last one lasted for a good six years, I am wondering why the ignition wire didn't get in the way of changing to voltage.  Or is it something that works on the module over time to eventually destroy the module due to incorrect voltage?  I am inclined toward going with the dual points system the next time around.

By not doing what Pertronix explains in the instruction to do (full 12 volts to the module) it is a roulette wheel of chance of how long it will work without problems. It may work for a good long time or it may fail in a month. The possible failure is because you have it connected to the coil power which is not a full 12 volts. Murphy's law dictates that it will fail at a inopportune moment. I would run the dedicated 12 volt wire to the module as the instructions say is required for problem free operation.That way you take the roulette wheel out of the equation.

[deathsled]

Okay thank you Bob. I will work on it and figure it out.

[Bob Gaines]

PM sent.

[deathsled]

The road to knowledge is a humble one as espoused by many a philosopher over the millennia. That said, Mr. G has clarified my misunderstanding of the Pertronix setup. The red positive wire coming out of the module under the distributor is not to be bolted to coil but rather there is a 12 volt wire that is to be spliced into the ignition wire bullet connection and that wire once attached to the ignition switch under the dash is to run through the firewall and gets wired directly to the red positive wire coming off the module and is NOT to be bolted to the positive of the coil. There is a second wire with an elbow connection that DOES remain hooked up to the positive of the coil although I am not sure what that wire does. Here are some pics of what I have set up and in its current configuration I will again be experiencing spark failure some time in my future. I also attach a silly diagram I drew of the firing order on this engine. When I removed the cap the distributor moved and it was one of those oh s!#t moves, much like Nedry in Jurassic Park when he hit the arrow sign to the dock and then spun the arrow around in his hand with no clue where to go. We all know what happened to him. Luckily I drew the two outer screws in my diagram and determined the rough position of the distributor before ripping all the wires off. Strangely enough I fiddled with the distributor enough to get it just to the point of firing and now there are no more hard starts when the engine is hot. I suspect that the timing is not as advanced as it was before and this is the reason for easier starts. Maybe it's at 6 or 7 degrees before top dead center. Some of you run 12 degrees for performance I suspect. Me, I just want to be able to start my car at the gas station after a run. Either way it must seem dialed back so easier to start? 302 roller rocker engine out of an 86 drag car Mustang. I am planning to make the fix in the coming days. Maybe do a vid of it. If I can do it anyone can. Seriously.

[Bob Gaines]

The wire with the elbow to the positive side of the coil if you trace it back should be coming from the Mustang/Shelby engine gauge feed harness. It is the Ford resistance wire circuit that powers your coil. Black wire from your distributor to negative side of coil. Red wire from your distributor/module connects to new 12 volt wire from your ignition switch.

[pbf777]

     We have been using the Pertronix product since they came to the market place; at first it proved "so-so" put shortly hereafter it has proven to be a good and reliable product.  Mr Gaines has provided excellent information, and all that I can add is that the Pertronix is sensitive to excess voltage, at 16V (+/-) it will "cook", so one must be careful of battery chargers as they often have the capacity to approximately 18V and that will surely do-in the Pertronix.     

     Buy and use the coil from Pertronics (painting optional, but do check for conductivity of the coating.  ); don't tap-off the coil for power to the module, it's just a bad idea; and don't apply excessive voltage sums (charging or jumping), simply as stated previously: "FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS", and you should not have any problems!   

     Scott.
     

       

[67350#1242]

Attached is a diagram for reference.   If your car has the stock bullet connectors on the tach, you can splice in there without cutting anything or disturbing existing wiring.  Disconnect the tach connector on the left in the diagram, then fashion a "Y" connector with bullets to tap into the line there.

[Bob Gaines]

We have been using the Pertronix product since they came to the market place; at first it proved "so-so" put shortly hereafter it has proven to be a good and reliable product.  Mr Gaines has provided excellent information, and all that I can add is that the Pertronix is sensitive to excess voltage, at 16V (+/-) it will "cook", so one must be careful of battery chargers as they often have the capacity to approximately 18V and that will surely do-in the Pertronix.     

     Buy and use the coil from Pertronics (painting optional, but do check for conductivity of the coating.  ); don't tap-off the coil for power to the module, it's just a bad idea; and don't apply excessive voltage sums (charging or jumping), simply as stated previously: "FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS", and you should not have any problems!   

     Scott.
     

       

Attached is a diagram for reference.   If your car has the stock bullet connectors on the tach, you can splice in there without cutting anything or disturbing existing wiring.  Disconnect the tach connector on the left in the diagram, then fashion a "Y" connector with bullets to tap into the line there.

Great job and thank you. A picture can be worth a thousand words.

[KR Convertible]

That diagram appears to be for use with the sock coil.  If you run the Pertronics coil, you have to run 12 volts to it too, right?

[shelbydoug]

That diagram appears to be for use with the sock coil.  If you run the Pertronics coil, you have to run 12 volts to it too, right?

Yes the Petronix coil needs 12v from the ignition switch. The Ford pink wire at the yellow top coil is "6v". It is a resistance wire that reduces the 12v input to 6v at the coil.

If you measure the voltage of the pink at the coil it will likely read more then 6v but not 12v.

That is probably because at some point the pink wire got trimmed back (shortened). That wire tends to develope surface cracks in the insulation and people tend to trim it back for that reason. Likely accounting for a higher voltage reading at the coil.

It is best to run a new wire from the ignition switch, run terminal to the Petronix coil.