66 GT350 Package Shelf

[MustangMann]

Hello all;  I know this is a longshot, but I am on the hunt for an original 1966 Shelby rear package shelf.  I am restoring an original rear shelf car (a carryover 66), and would love to find an original shelf.   Thank you in advance.  I can be reached at 5419736211 (Oregon).

[davez]

Not sure if this works for you

[shelbydoug]

The original shelf that you refer to is made out of molded plastic.

It has the well deserved reputation of warping like crazy when exposed to any kind of heat or summer kind of sunlight.

It was discontinued back then by Shelby for a reason.


Personally, I used the fiberglass reproduction that is currently sold by Branda. It is much sturdier and fits very well.

I would recommend it to everyone. https://store.cobranda.com/19shresh.html


Here is a picture of it installed in my '68 GT350. I think that it is self explanatory?

[tesgt350]

The original shelf that you refer to is made out of molded plastic.

It has the well deserved reputation of warping like crazy when exposed to any kind of heat or summer kind of sunlight.

It was discontinued back then by Shelby for a reason.


Personally, I used the fiberglass reproduction that is currently sold by Branda. It is much sturdier and fits very well.

I would recommend it to everyone. https://store.cobranda.com/19shresh.html


Here is a picture of it installed in my '68 GT350. I think that it is self explanatory?

Did you have to make any Modifications to fit it in your 68?

[shelbydoug]

Nope. It pops right in. I believe it will fit in a 69-70. as well.

If you wanted to use the '65 panel with the spare tire, that will fit in but you need to alter the "cargo door" to fit. I did one of those too. Branda has those also. Why buy an "original"?   You can't tell them apart.

That one, the '65, was a waste since 1) it won't fit much of a tire and 2) when I was racing, the tech people would make me take the tire out of the car 3) if you had to get the tire out it was a "Royal 'bitch" to get it out anyway. The ONLY thing good about the '65 panel is that it looks "Kool", besides saving 85 pounds of nearly useless rear seat. The '66 panel is a MUCH BETTER idea.

The negative to the '66 panel is that it is the '65 panel that most recognize. Few even know about the '66 version.

The answer is that the rear seat assembly dimensions of the 65-70 are the same. I don't know about the later Mustangs but I wouldn't be shocked if the 71-2 fit it.


I will add that this panel works well with the "trap door since it has a lip molded into it. The only fabrication you would need to do would be to fabricate a bracket for the latch assembly to lock against.

The fiberglass is the better material to use here. The original plastic one is like silly putty.

[Bob Gaines]

 +1 with all of Doug's observation. FYI unlike the 66 package tray that you can't tell if original or not once installed the 65 trays you can tell. The 65 package tray has a typical tell in that the originals were made with the fiberglass weave mat and the repros "typically" are made with the chop gun (chopped up pieces) fiberglass . When you open the trunk you can see the backside of the tray that fills the trap door and how it is made.There are a few that can be had made like original.The 66 tray has the part that is important that you see looking correct.

[6s1640]

Hi Ken,

When you come up with a tray, I have the two supports for the the trap door latch and mid support.  The fiberglass version may not need, but the mid support makes it even stronger.  My supports are true to the original in their material and construction.

Take care

Cory

P.S. Your messages are full.

[shelbydoug]

Hi Ken,

When you come up with a tray, I have the two supports for the the trap door latch and mid support.  The fiberglass version may not need, but the mid support makes it even stronger.  My supports are true to the original in their material and construction.

Take care

Cory

P.S. Your messages are full.

The fiberglass panel needs no reinforcements. The wood slats are for the plastic one.

[deathsled]

Hi Ken,

When you come up with a tray, I have the two supports for the the trap door latch and mid support.  The fiberglass version may not need, but the mid support makes it even stronger.  My supports are true to the original in their material and construction.

Take care

Cory

P.S. Your messages are full.

The fiberglass panel needs no reinforcements. The wood slats are for the plastic one.

Wondering what sort of modification is needed if I go with a 65 tray as it pertains to the trap door.  Maybe a 66 tray might be the better way to go?

[shelbydoug]

Hi Ken,

When you come up with a tray, I have the two supports for the the trap door latch and mid support.  The fiberglass version may not need, but the mid support makes it even stronger.  My supports are true to the original in their material and construction.

Take care

Cory

P.S. Your messages are full.

The fiberglass panel needs no reinforcements. The wood slats are for the plastic one.

Wondering what sort of modification is needed if I go with a 65 tray as it pertains to the trap door.  Maybe a 66 tray might be the better way to go?

None. On a 65-66 "Mustang", the '65 panel replaces the cargo door also. Using the '65 panel on a later car, 67 and up, the cargo door is taller and needs to be cut leaving about 3". The profile on the rear, the curve of it, is also different between the 65-66 and the 67 and later so there is some fabrication necessary there as well. The 66 panel is a better choice for a 67 or later car.

The 65 panel will only fit a skinny tire like a 185 so it is unlikely it will be a useful spare since you are likely running larger profiles then that?

I find the '66 panel more useful since you keep the cargo door and it has a lip on the front to keep packages from sliding off like the 65 does. The '66 is just a better design.

To make it practical for use of carrying anything back there though a cargo net would be recommended.

[6s1640]

Hi Ken,

When you come up with a tray, I have the two supports for the the trap door latch and mid support.  The fiberglass version may not need, but the mid support makes it even stronger.  My supports are true to the original in their material and construction.

Take care

Cory

P.S. Your messages are full.

The fiberglass panel needs no reinforcements. The wood slats are for the plastic one.

Hi Shelbydoug,

How's the reproduction fiberglass 1966 package tray provide for a latch for the trap door?  I think the aft support with the latch strike is still needed. What am I missing?

Cory

[shelbydoug]

It needs a simple bent metal bracket made and installed so that the existing lock mechanism will work with it.

This is a picture of what I did with mine. It's simple and not rocket science.

The fiberglass lip is more then sufficient to retain the bracket. No carpentry needed.

[6s1640]

Hi Shelbydoug,

Nice work.  The aft support with latch strike also makes a nice aesthetic closure.  It is also how SAI did it in 1966 if you trying to stay period.  Staying OEM is also not Rocket Science.  It actually very simple.  SAI kept their cost down with this design.

The attached images is from Brant Halterman at Virginia Classic Mustang, 6S033.  The latch strike here is bare.  The original support I use to reverse engineer had the latch strike painted black.

Take care

Cory

[shelbydoug]

Two different applications. A 66 panel in a '68 is hardly OEM. I just used windlace to tighten the fit between the door and the panel. That also minimizes any kind of vibration/rattle.

I would agree that the wood adds a sense of originality though. But even then you would have to be knowledgeable to know about the wood to begin with. I'm not trying to fake anyone out. Just answering questions and showing my solutions in hope that it helps some out.