Rebuilding Low Mileage KR(4 speed, 3.50 rear)Engine Rebuilt, Cam Question

[Craner]

Requesting suggestions..what would you do...?
I'm finally working on my KR that has been parked for 40+ years.
This is a low mileage car with the complete emissions setup.
After much thought ...I decided to built it the way I wanted and enjoy the car. 
I will be removing the emissions, keep the stock intake and carb.
The original exhaust manifolds will be removed and boxed with the complete emissions setup.

Engine will be balanced, adding ceramic free flow headers and a proper dual exhaust. 
The rest of the car will be bone stock on this rust free car.

Should I keep the stock cam grind or ?
Anyone have a real world experience with a CJ ?
Thank you
Fran

[shelbydoug]

Requesting suggestions..what would you do...?
I'm finally working on my KR that has been parked for 40+ years.
This is a low mileage car with the complete emissions setup.
After much thought ...I decided to built it the way I wanted and enjoy the car. 
I will be removing the emissions, keep the stock intake and carb.
The original exhaust manifolds will be removed and boxed with the complete emissions setup.

Engine will be balanced, adding ceramic free flow headers and a proper dual exhaust. 
The rest of the car will be bone stock on this rust free car.

Should I keep the stock cam grind or ?
Anyone have a real world experience with a CJ ?
Thank you
Fran

If you are going box stock, why would you change the cam?

Examine it for excessive pitting or other abnormalities duriong the rebuild. If it has issues, then consider replacing it.

Compcams does have a catagory of cams they call, "factory muscle". They are "modern" grinds of the original profiles. That's where you could consider replacing the cam but most likely just new lifters probably will be fine.

[427heaven]

Requesting suggestions..what would you do...?
I'm finally working on my KR that has been parked for 40+ years.
This is a low mileage car with the complete emissions setup.
After much thought ...I decided to built it the way I wanted and enjoy the car. 
I will be removing the emissions, keep the stock intake and carb.
The original exhaust manifolds will be removed and boxed with the complete emissions setup.

Engine will be balanced, adding ceramic free flow headers and a proper dual exhaust. 
The rest of the car will be bone stock on this rust free car.

Should I keep the stock cam grind or ?
Anyone have a real world experience with a CJ ?
Thank you
Fran

Fran...  I have a similar project that has been sitting idle for the past 30-40 years, a very long time. I might need to have the dust and dirt tested by a dirt-ologist to tell exactly how old that dirt is. Its a 1968 KR vert- 4 gear-  3.50 detroit locker set up. Just got my engine back, its a 69 CJ THAT LOOKS ALL STOCK but makes 490 HP on the dyno. My engine guy said the Cobra Jet top end is limiting its breathing capabilities, its all he could get out of stock cj parts. So the question is why ask others what they would do, but rather we need to ask what you want to do? I am guessing because you own a big block that you like the performance it offers? Speed, sound , excitement... Get out there and enjoy your ride, Listen to your inner voice!

[Royce Peterson]

I have used Comp Cams 268H-10 in several 428CJ rebuilds. It has a nearly smooth idle and gets 18" of vacuum so no issues with using the stock torque converter or power brakes. The car will pick up a full second or more in the 1/4 mile compared to the stock camshaft. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k33-224-3/make/ford

Note: Ignore the comments made by the Summit Racing guy. If you put this cam in a 360 you would notice a little lope. In a 428 it is quite smooth.

[pbf777]

Note: Ignore the comments made by the Summit Racing guy.

    +2!       

     This being sound advice most of the time!           

     Scott.

[vtgt500]

Fran,  I enjoyed reading your post discovering you want to take better advantage of your CJ's potential.  I've been dabbling with this for over 40 years and finally have my GT500 exactly as I want and am thrilled with the results.  Outwardly it looks stock enough, but will scare the bejesus out of me.

My build included massaged Edlebrock heads to preserve the original C8OE castings.  Camshaft designs have much improved since 1968.  I really like the 294S grind for manual transmissions and fast driving.  Roller cam profiles open even more options.  OEM rocker arms are tough to keep perfectly adjusted.  I've used the Dove system for 20 years and have never had to adjust lash.  Consider for some of the contemporary anti friction coatings for the rocker shafts.  I'm using Dicronite.

Original pistons were cast.  Will not tolerate detonation for long if you get lousy gas.  I had a custom set of forged, JE pistons made to match the head chambers.  Try to stay in the 10:1 - 11:1 range.  OEM connecting rods are marginal, but will work.  If new, aftermarket rods are not in the budget at least upgrade to ARP bolts.

A very well done intake study was published a few years ago by Jay Brown/FE Power.  Do a search and be prepared for an evening of reading.

Asking about clutches will start a purse fight.  For what it's worth, I like CenterForce Dual Friction.  Perhaps my favorite improvement was the clutch linkage.  Made my own roller bearing clutch peddle pivot with a hardened and ground, tool steel shaft.  Linkage is stainless shafting tapped for stainless rod ends.  Smooth as silk making for easy maneuvering.

I have all my motors professionally balance by well respected shops.  The feel of the engine building RPMs thru 5000 is noticeably improved.

I've used Hooker SuperComps with less than perfect satisfaction.  If the engine comes out again, I'll be installing Cooks stainless headers.  Been running Magnaflow 2-1/2" stainless exhaust kit with X-pipe.  Couldn't be happier.  Can have a normal conversation within car, windows down at 60 MPH.  At full throttle it is accelerating so hard thru 135 MPH am fearful of tire spin.

Induction and ignition is a wild card.  I'm pleased with Holley performance series carburetors dyno tuned for an exact air fuel mixture.  The OEM dual point distributor works fine and is a dead reliable.  Alternatively, the new Sniper/HyperSpark system can optimize timing and extract mileage gains.  But at the liability of an electric pump, RFI shielding and return line plumbing.

[shelbydoug]

Fran,  I enjoyed reading your post discovering you want to take better advantage of your CJ's potential.  I've been dabbling with this for over 40 years and finally have my GT500 exactly as I want and am thrilled with the results.  Outwardly it looks stock enough, but will scare the bejesus out of me.

My build included massaged Edlebrock heads to preserve the original C8OE castings.  Camshaft designs have much improved since 1968.  I really like the 294S grind for manual transmissions and fast driving.  Roller cam profiles open even more options.  OEM rocker arms are tough to keep perfectly adjusted.  I've used the Dove system for 20 years and have never had to adjust lash.  Consider for some of the contemporary anti friction coatings for the rocker shafts.  I'm using Dicronite.

Original pistons were cast.  Will not tolerate detonation for long if you get lousy gas.  I had a custom set of forged, JE pistons made to match the head chambers.  Try to stay in the 10:1 - 11:1 range.  OEM connecting rods are marginal, but will work.  If new, aftermarket rods are not in the budget at least upgrade to ARP bolts.

A very well done intake study was published a few years ago by Jay Brown/FE Power.  Do a search and be prepared for an evening of reading.

Asking about clutches will start a purse fight.  For what it's worth, I like CenterForce Dual Friction.  Perhaps my favorite improvement was the clutch linkage.  Made my own roller bearing clutch peddle pivot with a hardened and ground, tool steel shaft.  Linkage is stainless shafting tapped for stainless rod ends.  Smooth as silk making for easy maneuvering.

I have all my motors professionally balance by well respected shops.  The feel of the engine building RPMs thru 5000 is noticeably improved.

I've used Hooker SuperComps with less than perfect satisfaction.  If the engine comes out again, I'll be installing Cooks stainless headers.  Been running Magnaflow 2-1/2" stainless exhaust kit with X-pipe.  Couldn't be happier.  Can have a normal conversation within car, windows down at 60 MPH.  At full throttle it is accelerating so hard thru 135 MPH am fearful of tire spin.

Induction and ignition is a wild card.  I'm pleased with Holley performance series carburetors dyno tuned for an exact air fuel mixture.  The OEM dual point distributor works fine and is a dead reliable.  Alternatively, the new Sniper/HyperSpark system can optimize timing and extract mileage gains.  But at the liability of an electric pump, RFI shielding and return line plumbing.

In reading this I suspect that you are me under a false identity here? This is the Twilight Zone right? 

[Rodster-500]

Requesting suggestions..what would you do...?
I'm finally working on my KR that has been parked for 40+ years.
This is a low mileage car with the complete emissions setup.
After much thought ...I decided to built it the way I wanted and enjoy the car. 
I will be removing the emissions, keep the stock intake and carb.
The original exhaust manifolds will be removed and boxed with the complete emissions setup.

Engine will be balanced, adding ceramic free flow headers and a proper dual exhaust. 
The rest of the car will be bone stock on this rust free car.

Should I keep the stock cam grind or ?
Anyone have a real world experience with a CJ ?
Thank you
Fran

  Cool