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Thermostat for 1968 GT350

Started by Corey Bowcutt, February 13, 2021, 06:58:57 PM

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Corey Bowcutt

While I have my intake removed from the car I figured it may be a good idea to replace the thermostat.  Is there a preferred temperature thermostat for these cars?  Also are any thermostats better than others?  I hate the idea of cheap Chinese parts so would like to avoid it possible.

Thank you,

Corey

Bob Gaines

Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on February 13, 2021, 06:58:57 PM
While I have my intake removed from the car I figured it may be a good idea to replace the thermostat.  Is there a preferred temperature thermostat for these cars?  Also are any thermostats better than others?  I hate the idea of cheap Chinese parts so would like to avoid it possible.

Thank you,

Corey
I personal prefer the high flow type . https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-4364/make/ford  .Take your pick of more then a few that look almost identical with different names. I think that they are all robert shaw repackaged.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Corey Bowcutt

Thank you Bob.  So is 180 degrees the right temperature?

Corey

69mach351w

The Mr. Gasket High performance 180* thermostat I run in my 67 289 occasional driver and my 69 351W occasional driver with "zero" problems.

Corey Bowcutt

Perfect.  Sounds like we have a consensus.

Corey

In The Doghouse

Quote from: J_Speegle on July 15, 2019, 04:09:57 PM
And by making sure you use a thermostat with a air bleed hole and orientate it towards the top once installed (just works a little better that way.

shelbydoug

#6
Factory temp was 192. Theoretically a 180 is a good compromise.

I'm at 160 right now but may be simply because I'm running more timing, compression, etc.

The ONLY time for ME that it is any kind of an issue is right now because I am running an automatic choke, exhaust heat passages blocked and the carb doesn't want to kick all the way down, so it idles in the cold at 1,200rpm.

Since right now the car won't be driven on a road until all of the rock salt is washed away, that probably won't be until something like the middle of April.

Now I just run the car every couple of weeks to keep the carbs primed. oil circulated and as much water vapor cooked out of the engine as possible, so the high idle doesn't matter much right now.

Also right now, instead of a BF32 plug, a BF42 in the cold is more appropriate. Particularly if you are running aluminum heads instead of iron. They just idle cooler and as a result I can hear some carbon blowing off at idle.

Run 180 and just be certain once it gets hot out there that you aren't going to get heat soak and as a result difficult hot restart before you go driving around and get stuck on the road.


Let me just add that I think you need to be prepared to change out thermostats until you are comfortable at how the car runs regardless of what was original or not.
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

Royce Peterson

Stock thermostat is 192 degrees. I got the Robertshaw (it is all one word) 195 and drilled a #40 hole in the movable shell so it bleeds easier. As mentioned the air bleed hole needs to be oriented towards the top for best results.
1968 Cougar XR-7 GT-E 427 Side Oiler C6 3.50 Detroit Locker
1968 1/2 Cougar XR-7 428CJ Ram Air C6 3.91 Traction Lock