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Undercoating

Started by Shawn, February 23, 2020, 03:30:29 PM

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Shawn

Whats the best out of the can undercoating that matches factory wheel well application?  Will this also be the same product used on inside of rear quarters in trunk area?

Thanks
Shawn

eric lipper

I don't know but Tony Conover did my car and he says my undercoating is right?  If you want call him at Performance Motors in Hanover, MD.
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J_Speegle

#2
Its IMHO about 50% product and 50% technique. Others have had success with Wurth, Lord fusion   and a couple of other chalking tube style products that require special guns/applicators. I've had success with Spectrum Sludg4e ( think it has a new name now) and it can be applied with a large paint brush and then overcoated with a spray product to give it the sprayed look, Like the others you can get up to 1/4" thick in areas like the factory did and even get "curtains"

Remember that the interior, trunk and rear wheel well applications was done before body color was applied while front wheel wells was applied after and with just about everything installed so the final surface is much more important there since all of the surface will be visible on the finished car.

Also remember to duplicate/reproduce passes with what would have been a wand type of applicator from below the body. Make the passes visible and logical (don't end right at the edges of panels with not continuing spray or over spray on panels next to it or above depending on how the wand would have been aimed. You don't want anything to look neat nor look like the edges were masked off since they weren't originally

In the trunk remember the pattern should stay away from the rear edge of the quarter panel, the upper edge or the wheel well opening . Often three or maybe four visible passes 8-10" wide can be seen on original cars.  Rear wheel wells often show four starting at the front of the wheel well and moving rearward and down.  In the rear wheel well it is not applied all the way out to the quarter panel to inner wheel housing pinch weld at the top 2/3's of the weld leaving 3" or so of bare steel with some red oxide overspray and the hand applied "seam" sealer bead and wipe

Examples of all of this (limited number of pictures) are available in the pdf article I attached/posted in another thread

Hope this helps
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and Judge