Excess heat inside the car GT500KR

[Royce Peterson]

You are welcome and appreciated Bob - just trying to help.

I drove a 1967 Cougar as my daily driver from 1977 until 1990 in the process adding 300,000 miles to the odometer. It was a factory AC car and Texas is hot much of the year, so I had to keep it operating. One of the things that had trouble several times was the water valve vacuum switch which is located on the front of the unit just below the glove box. These little valves sometimes stick open. Other times they stick closed. Or they fall apart causing a vacuum leak. In any case when they malfunction you can have no heat or no AC or a total loss of vacuum to the system.

The factory shop manual has a handy chart listing when each hose is supposed to have vacuum (v) or not have vacuum (nv). This is what I always went to when I had trouble getting either heat or AC from the system.

[GT350AUS]

Royce, thank you for you sage advice.

That diagram was reproduced in the link I had attached earlier and is helpful.

My vacuum operated valve ( door/flap actuator ) seems to be moving and holding vacuum. However what I found was that when the door should be closed and the fan is switched on I feel the same amount of air flowing to the floor as when it is open so I'm wondering if there is something not allowing the door to stay closed. It is closed when i direct air to the screen and face level as no air goes to the floor.

[1967 eight barrel]

As for the heat in the car... God yes they are hot inside! I have no AC and I sweat my posterior off when it's more than 60 out. I drive the car to services on Sunday sometimes and if I wear a suit I sweat in the 12 mile drive.
Sadly, the non-AC cars have hot water circulating through the core regardless of if the heater is on or off.

                                                            -Keith

[GT350AUS]

Well in that case I should just gas up my a/c and run it when driving.

Being that yours is a non a/c car does it stay cooler for you if you ran the heater setting to  cool on the temp setting (middle lever) and screen or face vents as opposed to floor?

Also if you select off and put the fan on do you get air coming out of the floor level?

[1967 eight barrel]

Yes, I get movement via the bottom duct. I usually pull the vent knob on the left next to the hand brake. The door on the passenger side  just feels hot so It stays closed. I am finishing the restoration of the factory unit I have and waiting for the return chrome compressor, idlers, power steering pulley, power steering and alternator pulley.
The AC set up requires the change to the 7AC GT350 power steering pulley single groove alternator and C5 crank pulley. I guess I'll set all the originals aside in case I need to return to stock.

                                                                       -Keith

[Sxty8KR]

  So I've had my KR for a few years now. This might be simplistic and I would think noticeable, but when I first got the car I noted a good amount heat coming up thru the 4 speed shifter area. The rubber boot that covers the mechanism under the floor was missing. Replaced that and had a noticeable decrease in cabin heat.   

[GT350AUS]

  So I've had my KR for a few years now. This might be simplistic and I would think noticeable, but when I first got the car I noted a good amount heat coming up thru the 4 speed shifter area. The rubber boot that covers the mechanism under the floor was missing. Replaced that and had a noticeable decrease in cabin heat.   

Thanks for the information. My lower boot has been cut away by a previous owner so I'll be replacing that and see how it goes.

[FL SAAC]

We removed the rugs / factory insulation on our cars. We then installed the aluminum insulation thermal sound deadner sheets on the floor and as high as we could get them in the interior fire wall.

Then reinstalled the factory insulation and the carpet. These aluminum sheets with the special backing diverted the heat from entering into our interior.

[GT350AUS]

We removed the rugs / factory insulation on our cars. We then installed the aluminum insulation thermal sound deadner sheets on the floor and as high as we could get them in the interior fire wall.

Then reinstalled the factory insulation and the carpet. These aluminum sheets with the special backing diverted the heat from entering into our interior.

Sounds like that would work...Did you use something like Dynamat?

[FL SAAC]

Yes we did

We removed the rugs / factory insulation on our cars. We then installed the aluminum insulation thermal sound deadner sheets on the floor and as high as we could get them in the interior fire wall.

Then reinstalled the factory insulation and the carpet. These aluminum sheets with the special backing diverted the heat from entering into our interior.

Sounds like that would work...Did you use something like Dynamat?

[GT350AUS]

Tony

How far back did you go?

Did you remove the rear seat and fit it under it?

Ross

[FL SAAC]

When we painted them, all the interior was taken out. So all the floor boards and again as high as we could get to towards the front wall. Make sure that you get all the surfaces as clean as possible so the rubber / sticky side sticks real well.

Tony

How far back did you go?

Did you remove the rear seat and fit it under it?

Ross

[GT350AUS]

  So I've had my KR for a few years now. This might be simplistic and I would think noticeable, but when I first got the car I noted a good amount heat coming up thru the 4 speed shifter area. The rubber boot that covers the mechanism under the floor was missing. Replaced that and had a noticeable decrease in cabin heat.   

Does the lower boot sit over the shitft mechanism with linkages bolted to box or does it sit over it then screwed to the floor

With the shift handle then being attached through the lower boot that is screwed to the floor?

Mine has nothing there so I dont have a reference point

[GT350AUS]

Replaced the lower and upper boot today and my heat problem is solved.


Thanks for everyone who chimed in on this.