1967 Metuchen car rear inner wheel color

[Builder1]

I'm working on a 67 convert.   Oct it 66 car from the metuchen plant.  How should the rear inner wheel wells be done?  We're they blacked out with sound deadened?

[J_Speegle]

Sound deadener in the rear wheel wells (unlike that applied in the front wheel wells) was applied before the exterior paint application so it was painted and in some corners received overspray . Think about the process - the painter applied a nice full coat to the 1/2" wide wheel well lip- 95% of the paint had to go somewhere. Then you have the opening of the wheel well where the gun flowed as the painter applied paint to the quarter panel. The vast majority of the paint applied as the gun passed over the opening flow onto the expose back/inside surface which was made up of the wheel well and visible frame rail outer and bottom surface.

Since Shelby's were not built at NJ that year you might want to search out a forum that focuses on cars like yours. Just a thought or consideration

[hurlbird]

what about in 68? thought the wheel wells were red oxide?

[J_Speegle]

what about in 68? thought the wheel wells were red oxide?

Are you asking about front or rear wheel wells?   And for 68 NJ?  Just want to be clear so that you get the information your looking for.

[hurlbird]

thank you... the rear. I assume the sequence was red oxide, black "insulation" and then some body color overspray. NJ car. that seem correct?

Also is the a best correct insulation being used for restorations? thanks -John

[J_Speegle]

thank you... the rear. I assume the sequence was red oxide, black "insulation" and then some body color overspray. NJ car. that seem correct?

Well to be exact (or at best we can) there are more layers but not things that are typically visible on the final product. We would see applications from the floor painting upward, red oxide from the exterior (level application and from painting the wheel well lip) as well as the light gray primer surfacer application all prior to exterior body color application.  Bottom line is current general belief/understanding is body color over sound deadener. Pretty nice direct coverage along the wheel well lip from painting that surface on the exterior (90% had to go somewhere else) and nice direct application as the flowing guns passed over the wheel well opening coating the back side of the wheel house and the exposed frame rail in that area - visible surface from the exterior

Also is the a best correct insulation being used for restorations? thanks -John

Its a combination of product and technique. What you don't want is the light even textured finished look of a flocked Christmas tree IMHO. Some people like and have gotten good results Again it take practice and experimentation to get a factory look to an aftermarket product.

Some have been successful with Second Skin product Spectrum™ Sludge Deadener , Wurth, Lord Fusion and others. Part of the challenge is that suppliers are always changing their product lines and formulas so what was available and worked one day might change or be replaced the next. I've been happy with the Second skin product and there are four pages of discussions with pictures over on the ConcoursMustang site if you choose to do a search over there. You can build it to 1/4" thick and it will produce "curtain" if you apply it thick.

Some of these products also require special guns that can be expensive. Others can be applied with a roller or big paint brush then overcoated with a rattle can for the final fine finish

Also something to consider when applying any of these products is that at the factory it was applied from below and application was not limited to just the wheel well. Passes of the wand often began and ended at the edge of the wheel well housing. So you should attempt to reproduce  logical individual passes  in your final look 


Hope this helsp

[hurlbird]

thanks!! any images of what would be considered most accurate?

[J_Speegle]

thanks!! any images of what would be considered most accurate?

Best place to start is with your car and documenting the extent of the factory sound deadener, where it was applied and thickness of coverage. Is that missing from your car for some reason?

I would only have some fairly ugly original examples that would show individual details but I don't post pictures of pretty - finished cars since they aren't original and often the results of choices, outside influences and restrictions/limitations of the owner or restorer

[hurlbird]

its mostly there some chunks have fallen off... im dealing with a car from the original owner 80 years old who thought it a good idea to rattle can spray much of the underside in an attempt to preserve it thus the wheel wells got it too so im trying to recover from that. Think I might have to paint the deadener black again etc. PIA

[J_Speegle]

Some pictures to show texture, some typical coverage (though they we're all the same)  of the sound deadener as well as the body color coverage

Hope they help. Might want to check out ConcoursMustang Forum since your not building a Shelby   We even discuss those over there also. So many details shared between the two at certain plants and years








The last one shows the continuation of the wand pass but here are some additional ones to show some more examples from other than level pictures

[hurlbird]

that's a ton, thanks so much and I am doing a 68 Shelby Conv. -John

[J_Speegle]

that's a ton, thanks so much and I am doing a 68 Shelby Conv. -John

Sorry get confusing when different people post in different threads with different cars. Same information would apply -