Tachometer Question - loose red line needle

[StanG]

The red line indicator on the tacho on 6S1534 is a little loose and moves itself with vibration from the car, eventually dropping to the '6 o'clock' position.  The tacho itself functions perfectly and it appears to me to have all the features of an original unit (is there a definitive way to tell?).

In order to fix the red line needle, it seems the unit has to be pulled apart from the rear and I assume you pull it apart, working your way through to the front in order to get access to tighten the needle.  I had a look at other posts to see if  there was any articles or discussions with some details about the internals, but cannot find anything other than discussions about sending them off for full restorations or wiring conversions.  I'm wondering if anyone has had theirs apart, any pics of the insides or any insights into hidden things to watch out for during disassembly and reassembly?

A full rebuild is an option, however I thought if it is a straight forward thing to fix, I might be able to try.  I have been emboldened by recent successes on restoring some other bits and pieces that are detailed elsewhere on this very supportive forum!   

Cheers

Stan

[6s1640]

Hi Stan,

If you are patient, you mighty find a later Ford Tachometer made by Faria (Same company that made the GT350 tach) at a swap meet with the same red line dial and glass face.  See image below.  They are out there.  Assuming the dial is good, you can just make the swap.  There is also a 6K tach version with COBRA emblem with the same piece, but those are also going for bigger money these days. (You definitely don't want to buy one NOS in the box to salvage dial and glass.  But they are out there too.)  If you could find either one for a $100 with bad wiring or other issues, you could be money ahead compared to having the tach restored.  A 6K version sold at John Atzbach collection auction for exactly $100.  It needed new wire connectors.

If you give up there, you can try Phil Severance who restores these tach's.  I am sure he can make the repair.

Best of luck

Cory

[427hunter]

Phil Severance is the best! get the needle repaired and the tach rebuilt so it wont fail. When these tach's fail the car will not run so it's a good precaution.

[Cjc6566]

On my car 1604, the white needle is beginning to separate so this post is a good reminder that I need to add that to the list of winter projects.  I have never looked at how difficult it is to disconnect the tach..any watch-outs? 

Thanks
Cory James

[427hunter]

On my car 1604, the white needle is beginning to separate so this post is a good reminder that I need to add that to the list of winter projects.  I have never looked at how difficult it is to disconnect the tach..any watch-outs? 

Thanks
Cory James

Nope, very easy to remove - two screws and some wiring that just plugs in, just follow the pigtail off the tach.

[StanG]

Thanks guys,

I was hoping that if I could get the glass off I could just tighten it a little, but I'll keep an eye out at the meets and online. I imagine they may be a little harder to come by here (I'm in Australia - I probably should have led with that!) but you never know as there is a decent following for Shelby's here!  I'll get in touch with Phil following the Christmas break.

Is there a date code stamp or other means to confirm originality on the tacho's?  It has the black 'crinkled' rear cup and the front finger dial, and rear cup fastener nut look right, as does the mounting bracket. Its a 9K unit with the Cobra emblem at the bottom of the dial.

Cheers

Stan

[6s1640]

Hi Stan,

Yes, there should be a date code stamped on the tach with the cup removed. Which tach needle do you have? Is it pointy or straight? Pointy will be an over the counter tach.  The two tach images I posted have pointy tach needles. Straight will be an assembly line tach.  See image below.

Cory

[StanG]

Thanks Cory,

I'm not sure which needle it has, but will certainly head down to the garage shortly and take a look!

Cheers
Stan

[kingchief]

Date code is illustrated in this attached photo of a tach I used to have.

Happy Holidays, Steve