GT350 Aluminum Intake installation

[gt350hr]

    "I" feel it is FAR more important to NOT BE IN A HURRY.  I typically torque the inner bolts ( not the outer four )and walk away for 24 hours.  That lets cork end seals take a set . The the next day , I torque  "all" of them. The next day I check them for torque loss again. I do this again after the engine starts and cools until they do not move. Yes it's allot of "fussing" but it works. I use silicone "sparingly" after seeing lumps lodged it the oi pickup screen on disassembly of many engines.
   Randy

[TLea]

  And before someone chooses to blast me out of the water, think-about-it!     

     Scott.   

No blasting, you are correct. You explained it better than I did. We are essentially saying the same thing. Machining heads and block will altar intake to block fit

[gt350hr]

   Agreed Scott and "sometimes" NOT machining the sides of the manifold "raises" the ports to the heads. I have seen "gasket matched" heads done by "home enthusiasts" that have poor part to part match when installed. I use a bore o scope to check it out.

[JWH]

1) 100% agree with Randy (GT350HR) to not be in a hurry. Do your self a favor and take your time.
2) When installing my intake, I went to the hardware store and bought two bolts that are the same size as the Intake Manifold bolts. I cut off the heads of the bolts essentially turning them into studs. I installed both these studs on the same side of the engine and used them to A) help locate the intake and B) eliminate any back-and-forth movement of the intake as I lowered it into place. This really helped position the intake perfectly the first time and helped get a good seal at the front and rear of the intake where either the cork or the gasket material is used. 
3) Corey, I chose to go with the Permatex Ultra Gray rather than the Ultra Black. I think they are exactly the same, but cosmetically, the Ultra Gray is less noticeable than the Ultra Black against the aluminum color of the intake. But either should work well. 
Jeff

[Bob Gaines]

1) 100% agree with Randy (GT350HR) to not be in a hurry. Do your self a favor and take your time.
2) When installing my intake, I went to the hardware store and bought two bolts that are the same size as the Intake Manifold bolts. I cut off the heads of the bolts essentially turning them into studs. I installed both these studs on the same side of the engine and used them to A) help locate the intake and B) eliminate any back-and-forth movement of the intake as I lowered it into place. This really helped position the intake perfectly the first time and helped get a good seal at the front and rear of intake where either the cork or the gasket material is used. 
3) Corey, I chose to go with the Permatex Ultra Gray rather than the Ultra Black. I think they are exactly the same, but cosmetically, the Ultra Gray is less noticeable than the Ultra Black against the aluminum color of the intake. But either should work well. 
Jeff

To add - some choose to paint the gasket white to mimic the color of the typical Ford intake gaskets of the time period. This does not make it look exact but gives a more period look all things considered.

[pbf777]

   Agreed Scott and "sometimes" NOT machining the sides of the manifold "raises" the ports to the heads.

     There have been a few instances where I wanted to relocate the intake manifolds' inlet port center-line in relation to the cylinder head and in doing so I have either manufactured spacer plates mechanically fastened to the intake or cylinder head face, or weld built-up the intakes' faces with the required material, porting and surfacing.       

     Scott.

[shelbydoug]

   Agreed Scott and "sometimes" NOT machining the sides of the manifold "raises" the ports to the heads. I have seen "gasket matched" heads done by "home enthusiasts" that have poor part to part match when installed. I use a bore o scope to check it out.

You have as many original Ford parts as anyone I've know. Do you have an original Ford service set that you can measure the thickness of the cork with?

[Bob Gaines]

Randy, has more then I but I happened to have a couple packages handy.The smallblock cork ends measured at .212 and the BB measured .187 . Unfortunately I didn't have any modern intake gasket ends to compare to.

[shelbydoug]

Randy, has more then I but I happened to have a couple packages handy.The smallblock cork ends measured at .212 and the BB measured .187 . Unfortunately I didn't have any modern intake gasket ends to compare to.

I don't have any original Ford or Ford service parts, just Felpros. Want those?

[pbf777]

     As of the old originals, if others' are anything like those that we've piled up here for several decades, and at this point in time they're a little crispy, somewhat brittle and lacking the pliability originally intended to provide proper sealing; I wouldn't advise their use unless one is just determined to have "original stuff" because it very likely may prove to be "bad stuff"!     

     My suggestion as far as for the intake gaskets would be to purchase the Mr Gasket Co. grey composite gaskets, profile the perimeter, apply coloration and markings as deemed required to match or simulate the originals, and be more confident of a successful installation, even if it isn't absolutely "original" in origin.     

     Sorry, I'm just a function first guy, perfection in appearance is important, but just not before proper function.  Remember, of the two women at the bar, the "10" just might not be the best one to take home!     
 
     Scott.   

[gt350hr]

    Doug ,
       Bob's set of NOS '67s are already packed so I can't measure them . Maybe Jeff can check his. IIRC they are 3/16ths and will "crush" to 1/16th.

[DRGT350]

Randy is correct - uncrushed 0.187 thisk...

[shelbydoug]

First qualification: these are Felpro (recent) not Ford. They measure .19475" uncrushed.

The closest I can come to measuring them crushed are similar Felpro valve cover gaskets on -03074's engine as it sits in the shop.

Here's the picture. There is NO crush apparent on those gaskets and the cover IS torked down.

Second qualification: I did not remove the valve cover to measure the crush.


Observation: the observed crush on the valve cover gasket is similar to my attempt at the intake installation which is essentially zero crush and as a result caused a bunch of unexpected results such as a vacuum leak, oil leak, water leak.
The actual space that is siliconed on my small block is less then half of what this original thickness is. Did I measure it yet? No. Do want that number?

My conclusion BEFORE any of this discussion "errupted". DON'T USE THE 'FREAKIN' CORK".

Now considering how stubborn this group is, and the "don't tell me WTF to do" attitude of many, "go your own way" but if you aren't planning on showing in Concours, do you need the aggravation and abuse of making these things work, especially considering not just the leaking possibilities but risking breaking the intake to make them work?

You could just take a mallet and beat the intake manifold down until the cork is crushed?


Is it possible the factory soaked the cork in something to soften them before assembly?

If you can get them to work, then "you're a better man then I Gunga Din"? I just don't see where any of this effort is worth it? Take the points deduction.


...pssst! I can't crush these to 1/16 in a vice! Just tried it. Nada.

[gt350hr]

  Valve cover gaskets are "usually thicker than end seals" ( .250 in some cases)

[shelbydoug]

  Valve cover gaskets are "usually thicker than end seals" ( .250 in some cases)

The Felpro's that I have, SB and FE, both start new at the same thickness. They don't compress easily.

I think that Bob's comment about "some people" cutting them in half, i.e., reducing the thickness by half to start out with, is a telling observation?

Any way anyone wants to go with it is ok. They are now informed of others experiences, should not be surprised with similar results and that there are alternatives to the original corks if it doesn't work out well initially.

I think that is all any of us tried to say?



FYI, starting at the full .195", I WAS able to compress the Felpro cork's in a vice down to .137". 1/8" is .125" and unnecessary to compress it that far. It is flexible and springs back when released.


The measured space between the installed intake bottom and the top of the block I have is .1435". So it doesn't need to compress fully to the minimum thickness of .137".

So according to those numbers, the cork gaskets that I have, which are Felpro SHOULD BE NO PROBLEM to use. They are working exactly as they should be.


The operative word is SHOULD be. Why I had issues with them is anyones guess. I' don't know and I would say that I should not have, but I did.

Silicone was the solution for me.

On the 428 (as  I pictured) I just painted the RTV blue with matching engine paint. Only the purest of the purests would protest? They should find something else to worry about I think?