GT350 engine tag

[shelbymann1970]

I have my engine tag mounted behind my coil on the pass side head above the alt(non AC car). Is this the correct mounting position? Thanks. Gary

[Bob Gaines]

I have my engine tag mounted behind my coil on the pass side head above the alt(non AC car). Is this the correct mounting position? Thanks. Gary

Under the coil bracket is the typical location in this case according to Ford documents.

[shelbymann1970]

I have my engine tag mounted behind my coil on the pass side head above the alt(non AC car). Is this the correct mounting position? Thanks. Gary

Under the coil bracket is the typical location in this case according to Ford documents.

Thanks. I thought it was the common position but looking at that 70 red GT350 vert that popped 214.5K(with BP) yesterday at Mecum I saw the tag on that car was mounted to the DS head all by itself(waste of a bolt in my opinion a bean counter would say). Gary

[Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas]

I have my engine tag mounted behind my coil on the pass side head above the alt(non AC car). Is this the correct mounting position? Thanks. Gary

Under the coil bracket is the typical location in this case according to Ford documents.

+1 Bob knows

[shelbymann1970]

I have my engine tag mounted behind my coil on the pass side head above the alt(non AC car). Is this the correct mounting position? Thanks. Gary

Under the coil bracket is the typical location in this case according to Ford documents.

+1 Bob knows

Mine has been there since my resto in 2001. I went to get some info off it last week and couldn't read it took some pics pulling a hose out of the way and still couldn't read it. If was a lousy place for a tag since the mechanics cannot read it without taking off the coil bracket.

[shelbydoug]

I have my engine tag mounted behind my coil on the pass side head above the alt(non AC car). Is this the correct mounting position? Thanks. Gary

Under the coil bracket is the typical location in this case according to Ford documents.

+1 Bob knows

Mine has been there since my resto in 2001. I went to get some info off it last week and couldn't read it took some pics pulling a hose out of the way and still couldn't read it. If was a lousy place for a tag since the mechanics cannot read it without taking off the coil bracket.

I agree and made an executive decision and moved it to the first intake bolt. What's the point of having it if you can't see it?

[Special Ed]

I usually see engine tag on top of coil strap  on most engines anyway from factory so it can be read.

[shelbymann1970]

I usually see engine tag on top of coil strap  on most engines anyway from factory so it can be read.

I'd have to look at it better than these pics but this is mounted wrong? Coil on passengers side of engine.

[Bob Gaines]

Coil should be on passenger side. I wanted to make sure that others do not copy incorrect details along with correct details in the picture provided . The starter in the picture needs some help looking correct. It is the correct later 4 speed unique starter as the wide band nose cone indicates however the starter should be detailed differently. The the band clamp in the back has a gasket underneath and so does the Bendix cover that will stick out just a little. The starter is completely painted black up to and overlapping the edge of the nose cone band . The edge was typically a soft line as if a mask was used. A airbrush can come in handy to duplicate the look but there are other ways.   The exhaust manifolds were already bolted on when the engine was painted so in keeping with the other authentic factory details there should be some engine color overspray on the exhaust manifolds . 

[shelbymann1970]

Coil should be on passenger side. I wanted to make sure that others do not copy incorrect details along with correct details in the picture provided . The starter in the picture needs some help looking correct. It is the correct later 4 speed unique starter as the wide band nose cone indicates however the starter should be detailed differently. The the band clamp in the back has a gasket underneath and so does the Bendix cover that will stick out just a little. The starter is completely painted black up to and overlapping the edge of the nose cone band . The edge was typically a soft line as if a mask was used. A airbrush can come in handy to duplicate the look but there are other ways.   The exhaust manifolds were already bolted on when the engine was painted so in keeping with the other authentic factory details there should be some engine color overspray on the exhaust manifolds .

Thanks Bob. I should note the pic was taken around 1999. That starter is NOT on the car now. A correct starter I might need as I got a few tucked away but have not checked them out for part numbers. I understand how showing the pic can be "concours dangerous". I don't have a lot of pics taken during the resto and the pic was for coil placement to see if it is mounted correctly. That starter died many years ago at Motor muster(I kept it and paid the core charge) and had to be changed at Greenfield Village and was done by their crew there(lead Mechanic owned a 71 Boss so was familiar with mounting that starter). My pics also show a Ford Holley on my engine(pic taken not long ago year wise). While paint overspray may be correct wouldn't it burn off rather quickly on a driven car? One reason I didn't spray it on it. I also used manifold gaskets cut to the size of the manifolds. Since the late 90s the bar has been raised on these cars so I will eventually up that on my car(button top fuel pump among other parts tucked away along with correct valve covers).
So where can I get a correct starter if I need one or get the one in the pic rebuilt?  Gary
Oh yeah, I plan on using one of Jack's starters also (Dead Nuts on).

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob. I should note the pic was taken around 1999. That starter is NOT on the car now. A correct starter I might need as I got a few tucked away but have not checked them out for part numbers. I understand how showing the pic can be "concours dangerous". I don't have a lot of pics taken during the resto and the pic was for coil placement to see if it is mounted correctly. That starter died many years ago at Motor muster(I kept it and paid the core charge) and had to be changed at Greenfield Village and was done by their crew there(lead Mechanic owned a 71 Boss so was familiar with mounting that starter). My pics also show a Ford Holley on my engine(pic taken not long ago year wise). While paint overspray may be correct wouldn't it burn off rather quickly on a driven car? One reason I didn't spray it on it. I also used manifold gaskets cut to the size of the manifolds. Since the late 90s the bar has been raised on these cars so I will eventually up that on my car(button top fuel pump among other parts tucked away along with correct valve covers).
So where can I get a correct starter if I need one or get the one in the pic rebuilt?  Gary
Oh yeah, I plan on using one of Jack's starters also (Dead Nuts on).

In concourse the overspray look is what expected because first and foremost the restored car is supposed to look as new. On a older driver car that has not had a concours level restoration it wouldn't make much sense IMO to go to the trouble. Kind of like all of the paint daubs some people put on thinking that it will make a mediocre level restored car look better. As far as burning off quickly I suppose it depends on how much you drive and what kind of paint was used . I have seen some paint that has still stayed on after many thousands of miles. Even if you used some lower grade rattle can paint it is one of the easier things to touch up when needed. For example I can free hand a rattle can touch up with a minimal of masking preparation on a smallblock .A bigblock is more involved.  If using a more durable two part paint a airbrush or detail gun is what I and others have used. The look depends on your expectations.

[shelbymann1970]

Thanks Bob. I should note the pic was taken around 1999. That starter is NOT on the car now. A correct starter I might need as I got a few tucked away but have not checked them out for part numbers. I understand how showing the pic can be "concours dangerous". I don't have a lot of pics taken during the resto and the pic was for coil placement to see if it is mounted correctly. That starter died many years ago at Motor muster(I kept it and paid the core charge) and had to be changed at Greenfield Village and was done by their crew there(lead Mechanic owned a 71 Boss so was familiar with mounting that starter). My pics also show a Ford Holley on my engine(pic taken not long ago year wise). While paint overspray may be correct wouldn't it burn off rather quickly on a driven car? One reason I didn't spray it on it. I also used manifold gaskets cut to the size of the manifolds. Since the late 90s the bar has been raised on these cars so I will eventually up that on my car(button top fuel pump among other parts tucked away along with correct valve covers).
So where can I get a correct starter if I need one or get the one in the pic rebuilt?  Gary
Oh yeah, I plan on using one of Jack's starters also (Dead Nuts on).

In concourse the overspray look is what expected because first and foremost the restored car is supposed to look as new. On a older driver car that has not had a concours level restoration it wouldn't make much sense IMO to go to the trouble. Kind of like all of the paint daubs some people put on thinking that it will make a mediocre level restored car look better. As far as burning off quickly I suppose it depends on how much you drive and what kind of paint was used . I have seen some paint that has still stayed on after many thousands of miles. Even if you used some lower grade rattle can paint it is one of the easier things to touch up when needed. For example I can free hand a rattle can touch up with a minimal of masking preparation on a smallblock .A bigblock is more involved.  If using a more durable two part paint a airbrush or detail gun is what I and others have used. The look depends on your expectations.

So if the paint stayed on for thousands of miles could it be argued the paint isn't concours correct? too durable? I will never own a car I cannot drive. I'm not a trailer it everywhere. I watched graveyard carz break in engines and the paint is smoking and burning off right away. Heck the paint won't even last on an FE head near the exhaust ports if you drive them more than 15 miles.

[Bob Gaines]

Thanks Bob. I should note the pic was taken around 1999. That starter is NOT on the car now. A correct starter I might need as I got a few tucked away but have not checked them out for part numbers. I understand how showing the pic can be "concours dangerous". I don't have a lot of pics taken during the resto and the pic was for coil placement to see if it is mounted correctly. That starter died many years ago at Motor muster(I kept it and paid the core charge) and had to be changed at Greenfield Village and was done by their crew there(lead Mechanic owned a 71 Boss so was familiar with mounting that starter). My pics also show a Ford Holley on my engine(pic taken not long ago year wise). While paint overspray may be correct wouldn't it burn off rather quickly on a driven car? One reason I didn't spray it on it. I also used manifold gaskets cut to the size of the manifolds. Since the late 90s the bar has been raised on these cars so I will eventually up that on my car(button top fuel pump among other parts tucked away along with correct valve covers).
So where can I get a correct starter if I need one or get the one in the pic rebuilt?  Gary
Oh yeah, I plan on using one of Jack's starters also (Dead Nuts on).

In concourse the overspray look is what expected because first and foremost the restored car is supposed to look as new. On a older driver car that has not had a concours level restoration it wouldn't make much sense IMO to go to the trouble. Kind of like all of the paint daubs some people put on thinking that it will make a mediocre level restored car look better. As far as burning off quickly I suppose it depends on how much you drive and what kind of paint was used . I have seen some paint that has still stayed on after many thousands of miles. Even if you used some lower grade rattle can paint it is one of the easier things to touch up when needed. For example I can free hand a rattle can touch up with a minimal of masking preparation on a smallblock .A bigblock is more involved.  If using a more durable two part paint a airbrush or detail gun is what I and others have used. The look depends on your expectations.

So if the paint stayed on for thousands of miles could it be argued the paint isn't concours correct? too durable? I will never own a car I cannot drive. I'm not a trailer it everywhere. I watched graveyard carz break in engines and the paint is smoking and burning off right away. Heck the paint won't even last on an FE head near the exhaust ports if you drive them more than 15 miles.

LOL about the paint staying on. No one said anything about not driving or in a trailer ?   Try a more durable professional grade paint next time like the PPG Ford engine dark blue paint . Auto part store rattle can paints burn off quickly. It is up to each owner how and if they want to maintain the look.