Cobra intake manifold paint color

[crxnug]

I bought a original large letter cobra intake manifold that i need to restore to original, right now it has some grayish color that i need to remove, does anyone know the correct color that i can use to re-coat it, any help would be much appreciated

[shelbydoug]

I need clarification? Do you mean that you want to paint it instead of just bead blasting it OR you think that they were painted to begin with?

'Splain it to me please? Me stupido.

[crxnug]

thats where i need to get some clarification, will bead blasting leave the exact same appearance that was there originally , if not then i would spray paint it so it is correct

[shelbydoug]

thats where i need to get some clarification, will bead blasting leave the exact same appearance that was there originally , if not then i would spray paint it so it is correct

Original? Well, right there that is a little controversial? It really depends on the original finish on YOUR manifold.

Some had very rough cast finishes. Some almost shinny like a pressure cast item does. I'm convinced they ALL had the COBRA highlighted.

I would rephrase the question and consider it a question of what the predominant majority of the knowledgeable expect the manifold to look like. In other words, take the advise of someone like Bob Gaines or the equivalent as to what is a "pretty good" representation of what the original finish was. I don't think that you will ever get a 100% agreement or even close to that of what it should look like.

You CAN hurt them a little by using the wrong blast media AND the finish on something like the Blue Thunder manifolds confuses things. It's pretty but hardly what the originals came out looking like.

IF you decide to play with different media in the blaster,  protect the machined surfaces. That is really a PITA but I think worth it.

Personally, and I'm gonna' get flack on this one for sure, I like the Black Beauty SANDBLAST media followed by a wash with the HEAVY DUTY, smart your eyes acid wheel cleaner. It's going to make it look like an Edelbrock finish and similar to the Blue Thunder. Both REALLY nice finishes.

That will get rid of a lot of the staining put into the castings by years of grease, grit and spilled gas BUT (and this is a BIG one) it may reveal casting flaws like porosity in the castings that you never saw before or knew were there? So that's kinda' a can of worms.

If you are a perfectionist, you are probably better off sending it to Jim Cowles?  He's a PITA too but you need to remember the same thing that makes him difficult to live with is the same thing that makes his results exceptional? 

Definitely stay away from paint though. You do not want to go that route.

[Bob Gaines]

thats where i need to get some clarification, will bead blasting leave the exact same appearance that was there originally , if not then i would spray paint it so it is correct

Original? Well, right there that is a little controversial? It really depends on the original finish on YOUR manifold.

Some had very rough cast finishes. Some almost shinny like a pressure cast item does. I'm convinced they ALL had the COBRA highlighted.

I would rephrase the question and consider it a question of what the predominant majority of the knowledgeable expect the manifold to look like. In other words, take the advise of someone like Bob Gaines or the equivalent as to what is a "pretty good" representation of what the original finish was. I don't think that you will ever get a 100% agreement or even close to that of what it should look like.

You CAN hurt them a little by using the wrong blast media AND the finish on something like the Blue Thunder manifolds confuses things. It's pretty but hardly what the originals came out looking like.

IF you decide to play with different media in the blaster,  protect the machined surfaces. That is really a PITA but I think worth it.

Personally, and I'm gonna' get flack on this one for sure, I like the Black Beauty SANDBLAST media followed by a wash with the HEAVY DUTY, smart your eyes acid wheel cleaner. It's going to make it look like an Edelbrock finish and similar to the Blue Thunder. Both REALLY nice finishes.

That will get rid of a lot of the staining put into the castings by years of grease, grit and spilled gas BUT (and this is a BIG one) it may reveal casting flaws like porosity in the castings that you never saw before or knew were there? So that's kinda' a can of worms.

If you are a perfectionist, you are probably better off sending it to Jim Cowles?  He's a PITA too but you need to remember the same thing that makes him difficult to live with is the same thing that makes his results exceptional? 

Definitely stay away from paint though. You do not want to go that route.

Yes, not painted. First off I have yet to duplicate with bead blasting the exact factory finish the aluminum intakes had when fresh new. The fresh cast look is hard to duplicate. I keep a unmolested example around to remind me. It is a little scary when I read  Shelbydoug's post because it makes me think he can read my mind or has been spying on me (now I sound like him    ) . I agree with the finish on a brand new Blue Thunder finish being very close. I have only been able to duplicate that original finish on a couple of intakes in my life and those are ones that I didn't have to blast and just cleaned chemically. Those are few and far between . Most you have to blast in some form or fashion. You lose some definition when you blast. The technique he suggests going about getting something in finish close is compatible too.  I have found that glass beads make the finish too shiny IMO.The black beauty is very aggressive grit . There are machined surfaces on the top side that will have to be dressed out afterwards .You do that after the acid wash . There is a learning curve with this type of work. If you don't plan on doing this kind of restoration much and want the best look the first time out you might consider sending to Jim at Shelby parts (like I said scary)    .       

[shelbydoug]

thats where i need to get some clarification, will bead blasting leave the exact same appearance that was there originally , if not then i would spray paint it so it is correct

Original? Well, right there that is a little controversial? It really depends on the original finish on YOUR manifold.

Some had very rough cast finishes. Some almost shinny like a pressure cast item does. I'm convinced they ALL had the COBRA highlighted.

I would rephrase the question and consider it a question of what the predominant majority of the knowledgeable expect the manifold to look like. In other words, take the advise of someone like Bob Gaines or the equivalent as to what is a "pretty good" representation of what the original finish was. I don't think that you will ever get a 100% agreement or even close to that of what it should look like.

You CAN hurt them a little by using the wrong blast media AND the finish on something like the Blue Thunder manifolds confuses things. It's pretty but hardly what the originals came out looking like.

IF you decide to play with different media in the blaster,  protect the machined surfaces. That is really a PITA but I think worth it.

Personally, and I'm gonna' get flack on this one for sure, I like the Black Beauty SANDBLAST media followed by a wash with the HEAVY DUTY, smart your eyes acid wheel cleaner. It's going to make it look like an Edelbrock finish and similar to the Blue Thunder. Both REALLY nice finishes.

That will get rid of a lot of the staining put into the castings by years of grease, grit and spilled gas BUT (and this is a BIG one) it may reveal casting flaws like porosity in the castings that you never saw before or knew were there? So that's kinda' a can of worms.

If you are a perfectionist, you are probably better off sending it to Jim Cowles?  He's a PITA too but you need to remember the same thing that makes him difficult to live with is the same thing that makes his results exceptional? 

Definitely stay away from paint though. You do not want to go that route.

Yes, not painted. First off I have yet to duplicate with bead blasting the exact factory finish the aluminum intakes had when fresh new. The fresh cast look is hard to duplicate. I keep a unmolested example around to remind me. It is a little scary when I read  Shelbydoug's post because it makes me think he can read my mind or has been spying on me (now I sound like him    ) . I agree with the finish on a brand new Blue Thunder finish being very close. I have only been able to duplicate that original finish on a couple of intakes in my life and those are ones that I didn't have to blast and just cleaned chemically. Those are few and far between . Most you have to blast in some form or fashion. You lose some definition when you blast. The technique he suggests going about getting something in finish close is compatible too.  I have found that glass beads make the finish too shiny IMO.The black beauty is very aggressive grit . There are machined surfaces on the top side that will have to be dressed out afterwards .You do that after the acid wash . There is a learning curve with this type of work. If you don't plan on doing this kind of restoration much and want the best look the first time out you might consider sending to Jim at Shelby parts (like I said scary)    .     

I think you just hired a Witchdoctor to put a spell on me? He's good.

[acman63]

I need clarification? Do you mean that you want to paint it instead of just bead blasting it OR you think that they were painted to begin with?

'Splain it to me please? Me stupido.

Glad to see you back in the saddle Big D.  missed you!

[shelbydoug]

OOO! Roy Rogers singing "Back in the saddle again". Damn those saddle sores.

Sorry to push the PITA's to you but I figure no one else is better suited to deal with them?