Valve Cover Restoration Questions: U Drive Nail/Screw Removal, Paint

[Craner]

Looking for what has worked best for removal of the plug wire bracket on aluminum valve covers.

Carefully.. Slot the head, or weld to the U drive head... then unscrew? (similar to process used to remove the transmission serial tag).  ??

How to recreate the surface treatment on the unpainted areas? After proper paint (unpainted areas are carefully taped during paint)

Lightly sand (grit?) in a forward and back direction to create a "brushed aluminum" finish.

Comments appreciate.
Thank you.
Fran

[Royce Peterson]

A 3/32" hole on the backside lets you drive them out with a punch. Then put sealant on the new ones after crinkle black paint.

[KR Convertible]

I was going to drill the small holes from the inside of the valve cover, but didn't feel comfortable with locating the holes correctly. I knew I wanted new brackets and filler tube and got them from Jim Cowles (RIP).  Check with Jesse before trashing your originals.  Then grab it with vise grips and yank away.  Once you get them up a little, you can get under the heads with some flush cut dykes.  Pry against the brackets, not the aluminum.

I had a friend that did powder coating do mine with wrinkle black powder.  I used a 36" belt sander with a new 60 grit belt to get the thick off then switched to a worn out belt to finish them.  I found that using a soft pad under the belt made it work better.  Otherwise, you take of a lot of material trying to get it to clean up.

[Bob Gaines]

Looking for what has worked best for removal of the plug wire bracket on aluminum valve covers.

Carefully.. Slot the head, or weld to the U drive head... then unscrew? (similar to process used to remove the transmission serial tag).  ??

How to recreate the surface treatment on the unpainted areas? After proper paint (unpainted areas are carefully taped during paint)

Lightly sand (grit?) in a forward and back direction to create a "brushed aluminum" finish.

Comments appreciate.
Thank you.
Fran

I have always taken a series of chisels to get them out. Starting with a smaller chisel that has a finer edge I get under the head of the rivet on one side work it in and then move to the other side to do the same . The wedge shape of the chisel slowly forces the rivet up. I use progressive larger chisels to work it up switching from side to side. It has always worked for me and doesn't take that long. I have to do it on the shields inside the small block valve covers too so I can get at the back side of the filler neck to remove for restoration. As far as the painting I don't tape off anything. Paint it and let it wrinkle up but while the paint is soft I take a razor blade and scrape off as much paint of the brushed surface as I can without any pieces fall on the wrinkle surface. I have done it enough (learning curve) that it is not a problem for me . I do that so as to make may sanding job easier, save time and sandpaper. If that part makes you uncomfortable then skip ,let it all dry good before sanding.  I typically start with a 80 grit then 120 and finish with a 150. Some go finer but the factory valve covers are closer to 150 from my observations over the years. Too fine and it changes the original look and can be a source of deductions in concours. It is VERY important that when sanding you ONLY sand in one direction. It can make it a pain but doing it that way will give the most original and best IMO look.  After sanding re attach the plug wire brackets. On small block valve covers I take off the oil filler neck the replate and reattach for the most authentic finish. 

[kram350]

Grind two flats on each side of the head and then use a small wrench or vice grips to twist out the rivet. Slotting the head works too but sometimes one side brakes off.

[67350#1242]

If you are using the spray wrinkle paint, it is a good idea to start with a coat of self etching primer - they are much less likely to chip or flake than without primer.

Alternately, you can wipe across the high areas on the ribs with a thin cloth (T shirt) soaked in laquer thinner while the paint is still wet to remove most of the paint before it dries.  Carefully with a finger laid flat across the ribs.    Once dry, the remainder of the paint can be easily removed with the thinner.
Getting the right texture  with the wrinkle paint is a function of temperature and thickness of the coat, so some experimenting is a good idea before proceeding with the real thing.  A warm oven can also be useful in creating the texture.